2 issues...Brake tube rusted and random cylinder misfire
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I need to know a few things about replacing brake lines on my 99 ECSB 4x4 Silverado 4.8 150k miles. I am losing brake fluid and have basically no pressure on the brake pedal. The brake lines are very rusted and pitted. I am presuming they need to be replaced and I'd like to try it myself. I've done other maintenance on the truck (shocks, rusted panel replacement), so I feel confident that with the right info I can get it done.
This truck spent it's first 5 years in the rust belt.
1. What is the OEM diameter of the tubing? I plan to use plain steel, not stainless.
2. Once I get the tube bent, would it hurt anything to paint them with rust bullet?
3. So I know what flaring tool to get, what kind of flares are on the ends of the tube?
My sencond problem is this: Whenever it rains, I drive my truck and get bad misfires. Could the fuel lines be rusted along with the brake lines and water leaking into the fuel system? The problem goes away after a little driving/hear acceleration and then comes back if the truck is restarted.
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Re: 2 issues...Brake tube rusted and random cylinder...
1. What is the OEM diameter of the tubing? I plan to use plain steel, not stainless. If they use salt on the roads stainless is better, TUBING IS 3/16" 2. Once I get the tube bent, would it hurt anything to paint them with rust bullet? No for mild steel, stainless won't rust though, no paint req'ed 3. So I know what flaring tool to get, what kind of flares are on the ends of the tube? U will need a tool that does double flares, around $60 US, if u have ever used a double flare tool read the instructions carefully. As far as OD of line, take the old to the parts store and match it, but I think it is 3/16"
The engine issue, best u have a trouble code test run and go from there, any Kragen or Autozone will do it for free, if nothing shows clean the inside of the MAF sensor with CRC brand MAF cleaner, water could not get in the line because there is over 40 pounds of pressure, u would see allot of gas on the ground under the truck.
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In most cases on these older GM vehicles it is much easier to replace the lines from the master cylinder all the way to the rear wheels. You should be able to find brake lines that are preferred and have the correct fitting for what you need to do. Compression fittings are a definite No No
Some things to check ahead of time
1. Do all the bleeder screws open? If not you may be replacing wheel cylinders and calipers.
2. Are the brake hoses cracked? If they are might as well replace them at the same time.
3. Are the pads and shoes in good shape. If they are getting thin might as week replace them as well.
4. Do all the brake lines you need to replace come loose from the hoses, cylinders, master cylinder, proportioning valve, etc.
Just about every GM that I get in the shop with rusted brake lines to the rear end up with a $800 +/- bill. 3 hours labor, 20+ feet of line, proportioning valves (later models), fittings, wheel cylinders. And a bleed and flush.
The lines don't have to look pretty they just have to work!
Here's a basic rundown on brake lines: Brake lines start at your master cylinder go to a main proportioning/combination valve to adjust brake pressure to front/rear of vehicle from here your brake lines will either go directly into your calipers on a disk brake setup or to a wheel cylinder on a drum brake set up. ABS or Antilock braking system is a computer assisted braking which generates numerous pulses per second to eliminate locking your brakes and loosing control of your vehicle. There are components which are needed by the system but as to hooking brake line to abs no. You can get preformed/exact replacement brake lines from dealer or some parts stores or you can get the correct length and a piping/tubing bender and form your own. Hope this clarifies things a bit. Need anything else let me know
You can not get any brake tubing from a dealer, even for a
brand new vehicle,never could
When 3/16" steel brake tubing rusts out,you need to purchase
tubing of different lengths, at the auto parts store.
You cut,bend,and flair the ends yourself,fabricate so to speak,
no other way.
You use only the 3/16 double flair connectors, if you can not make
an end to end run.
You start by removing the tubing near where it rusted through or leaks
You go to the nearest original connection,a wheel cylinder,abs module etc.
Then as you construct the tubing going back toward the master at the front,
you may want to cut it and flair the OE Tube and stop there.
There is no need to go end to end,and put yourself through all that stress.
Just replace the rusted area unless you can easily get to a line.
If your not going back to the maste,r which line doesn't matter
If your going end to end you will answer your question as you remove
the old tubing
If your doing several rusted lines for safety sake,do one at a time
The brake fluid can leak from a few places in the rear. Bad wheel cylinder/brake hose or the most likely cause, a rusted brake line.
Fill the master cylinder and have somone step on the brake while you
look under the truck. When you find the leak, the best thing to do is to
replace the lines up to the front valve (they don't rot in one spot) then
bleed the brakes and you should be good to go. Hope this helps.
I had this same issue. This location you mentioned is prone to the accumulation or road grit/sand and water and leads to rust through of the two brake lines. I determined it was best to take a tubing cutter and remove the bad sections and just replace them with new brake lines. (splice in) You'll need a steel tubing flare kit, two brake lines ( i picked em up at the parts store) two 36" and and four inverted flare adapters. The parts guys will assist you well, let them know what you are doing. Should go pretty good for you if you have any contortionist blood in ya! Naw, it's just a bit tricky to flare the tube while up in there.
Kris! Your in luck, that is way to high. You can replace it your self for about 20 bucks and a little work. A brake line and brake fuild you can replace and bleed out the one side; don't let the master cylinder go dry or it may take a little to do it.