Question about 2007 Ford Fusion I4 SEL Sedan

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Battery is being drained by something electrical

My battery is being drained. Had batt and alternator checked. Both good. After a jump start sometimes it would be fine for a week, then it wouldn't start the next day. Came to find the trunk light was always on. Pulled the bulb. Was good for a week. Now back to it might start it might not. When I shut the car off I hear a few clicking noises. Hear these same noises any time I turn anything electrical on or off. The trunk light fuse seems to be on same as battery saver. Can I just pull this fuse? What other things could it be?

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The clicking noise is a depleted battery (if the solenoid is integrated into the starter) I had a similar challenge with my 20 year old Honda, the battery terminals had expanded over time due to overtightening and no longer connected fully if you can find battery terminal sleeves check link below http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/p/car-batteries/battery/other-batteries/other-car-batteries/?412775000&0&cc5_1026 these are ideal if not I used heavy duty tin foil that I folded to the correct shape and thickness. I am also assuming the battery is fully functional and in good working order.

Posted on May 08, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Sean80000
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SOURCE: 87 f250 drained brand new battery

I would first have the alternator checked by an auto electrician to ensure it is working correctly and is providing the correct volume of current. It may be faulty and when driving you will be drawing battery power instead of power from the alternator to run the electrics. This will drain the battery.

Alternators do not last forever and if you are still running the original unit it is likely to be on it's last legs and you will need a replacement unit.

Posted on Nov 30, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Wont start unless jumped or restarted within 30 mins

I had the same problem, but it wasnt happening every time. Alt and Battery tested good. About 1 month later the alternator went out and I had to have it rebuilt.

Posted on Dec 16, 2009

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1997 Jeep grand Cheeroke


My Answer:

Being an expert in this Electronics field this should be fairly easy.

It appears your charging system is functioning OK as you did the QUICKIE alternator/regulator test and that part appears to be fine.

Next - Never ASSUME you have a good, or NEW battery. I've seen brand new batts fail a few months after purchase for no known reason at all. Water level should be topped off esp during Hotter weather as water level will drop as the batt ages.

AND - when in doubt - Always do a hydrometer test on each cell, and make sure all cells read equally at approx 1.285 to 1.290 - indicating a fully charged batt.

When doing a LOAD TEST with an external 100 Amp Load Tester make sure you disconnect the POS terminal cable (or better yet both batt cables) on the batt before doing a good Load Test on a fully charged batt.

Batt voltage on a good fully charged batt should never drop much below 11.4 to 11.7 volts doing a 10 second load test using a Load Tester similar to say one bought at Harbor Freight Tools for like $15 when they are on sale.

If the top of the batt is wet (for whatever reason such as dew-point or leaky batt acid) this will cause the batt to self-discharge right across the top of the batt. Just like putting a small light-bulb across the batt posts and causing a drain. It happens more times than you care to know. When I worked at SEARS I seen it day in and day out......trust me I know!

Next - you'll want to check for a couple things at night, or else daylight will work as well - if you have good eyesight. You want to check and make sure your "backup lights" aren't ON when the Headlights Switch is turned OFF and the Ignition Switch is OFF as well. Sometimes a SHORTED Transmission Backup Light Switch will cause a battery drain with everything shut off. Sometimes!

Also - If you have any Interior Lights left on when the SUV doors are all closed that will surely drain the battery down.

A radio/stereo left ON will do the same as well.

A shorted tail-light (or any marker light) will also cause a battery to drain over time.

Jeeps that have a under the hood light Mercury Tilt Switch for the Engine compartment sometimes can have this switch mounting come loose and when you shut the hood the light will actually stay lit thus draining the batt down as well. Make sure you check it at NIGHT during darkness as it will show up better.

If all this proves NOT to be the cause then you will have to do an actual DVM inline amp meter test to see just how much current leakage (shorting) you have. A fuse block isolation test will next have to be done to isolate from which circuit leg the short (or current drain) is coming from.

Once that circuit is isolated then it's just a matter of finding the shorted device or shorted wire(s).

If you just added anything new electrical wise to the Jeep recently- then that is a good starting point - for if the problem wasn't there before that time, and now it is - then there is your culprit!

If you are using an external battery charging PV (Photo-voltaic) panel, and it's bad for any reason - then it will drain your battery down as well, esp if the blocking or back diode goes bad.

Also - If you have a dual battery system with a BATTERY ISOLATOR installed you might want to double check all your wiring there as well - as I've seen them go bad and cause many a battery problem!

It's gotta be something I just went over here - as I covered everything......

Let me know what it was OK?

Thx,

Frank

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1 Answer

Seems to be electrical problem


What initiated the need for jump starting? Is the alternator charging? Has the battery been checked?

To check the alternator, once the engine has been jumped and is running, remove one of the battery post connections. If the engine dies, the alternator is not charging the battery, and the symptoms you describe are the on-board computer going through low voltage spasms until sufficient electrical power to operate the engine / tranny is drained and the car dies.

If the car continues to run with no battery attached, the alternator is charging - - - and I would recommend removing the battery and having it checked and (if good) recharged to full capacity. I would also recommend having it charged even if the alternator is the problem just to delay the onset of the low voltage problems. The car should operate normally for a few miles before the battery drains too low after a full recharge, enabling you to get it to a shop for alternator service / replacement.

If you attempt replacing the alternator yourself, make sure the battery is disconnected prior to starting the job. Saves blowing up good stuff by accidental short.

Hope this helps and good luck!

-WB.

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