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Battery meter drops when I come to a stop. My lights flicker inside and out sometimes. I had the alternator tested its good with brand new battery. I've checked my grounds they are decent put not per

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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Check make sure drive belt not slipping or damaged. what year model type vechicle.

Posted on Dec 11, 2012

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
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It is typical for voltage to go down when you are idling the motor. You say you had the alternator tested and the battery is new and grounds are good. You shuldnt see a big drop - still, new cars and trucks have a hefty appetite for electricity. I presume your regulator was also tested with the alternator. If you are still concerned, I suggest you have your mechanic take another look see.

Posted on Dec 11, 2012

  • William Mills
    William Mills Dec 11, 2012

    Not typical the regulator compensates for that no matter what rpm the motor is. when auto designers design a vehicle they design the electrical system to be 30% over capacity. That is amp draw with everything on at idle plus 30%. the only time i have seen this is when someone installs a lower amp alternator than what is specified for the car.or a burnt diode in the alt.or a bad cell in the battery.

  • A Miller Dec 12, 2012

    OOh really? Can you explain that to my vehicles? All you say may be true, still, when I come to a place where the engine is not above 600 RPM, I have come to expect lower output. My old cars rarely disappointed me. Just exactly like the poster said.

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The FuseLink is blown. It is a 100 AMP in-line fuse on the red wire from the alternator.

Posted on Oct 05, 2009

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SOURCE: i have a 2002 gmc yukon denali xl with 6.0L engine

my 2002 had same problems and to fix, I loosened the hose clamp on the throttle body air intake to air box hose. Then opened the butteryfly by hand and used throttle body cleaner, used carb cleaner on another, and removed all the black grime that collects around the throttle body butterfly. About every forty thousand miles i have to do this. I have 123k on mine now and have done it three times. Fixes the low idle, dying in reverse, lite flicker and alternator dropout.

Home it works, if it does
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Posted on Dec 20, 2009

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SOURCE: Battery light comes on when accelerating, alternator is ok

In fact the Alternator is on it's way out, I had Taurus that was doing the same thing. When the RPM's were over 3000 the light would flicker. What happens is, the slip rings wear and get out of round and when the RPM's get too high the brushes start to bounce causing the light to flicker. Keep in mind the alternator is spinning about 3 times the speed of the engine. Pick up an alternator it's just a matter of time, mine went about 6 months like that, try to keep the RPM's low.

Posted on Dec 31, 2009

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How do i know if my computer is bad on my gmc truck


computer does not control headlamps.could be loose ground or daytime running light module.turn lights on with switch does it still flicker? or are you talking about batt light check plug for tight fit on alt.

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Battery wont charge, battery/ABS/SRS/BRAKE lights come on while driving and flicker. voltage increases to dash lights/fan speed/headlights periodically.


Get a volt meter, start your car and see how many volts your car is producing while running. Should be around 14 volts. May want to watch the meter for a while since your electric seems to fluctuate. Most voltage regulators are internal of your alternator. If you are getting a lot more or less than 14 volts while running, replace the alternator. If it is not charging, voltage will drop as vehicle runs, until battery is dead.

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Fluctuating voltage meter


Alternator maybe charging , but not enough to keep the battery charged which is causing the battery to drop charge. Most likely it's the voltage regulator inside the alternator. but regardless the whole alternator will have to be replaced. This will eventually cause the new battery cells to go bad.

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1997 dodge stratus dies when coming to a stop no warning just dies. Car will restart after cranking for a bit. then may stop again. Noticed that the alternator light comes on randomly and interior lights...



  • These cars loose memory for the idle when they loose voltage. So if the voltage suddenly drops it can just die like you say. The battery can read good voltage and be bad. The alternator could be intermittently working as well. Charging part time and other time not. If the alternator light flickered then it threw a code in your computer even if the light is off now. So you have a couple of things you can try but getting your car scanned will be what you may need to end up doing.
  • First start the car and get a multi meter and set it to DC Volts.
  • Now take the pos to pos and neg to neg on the battery terminals. If that multimeter reads.14 or more volts the alternator is good and If not it is bad.
  • The battery can have a volt test done and perform poorly under a load test.
  • Often times a part store will load test your batter as well as pull the codes from your car for free.
  • I suspect the alternator to be honest but going to the parts store or a trusted mechanic is going to give you the for sure reason for your car acting up.

Regards, Tony

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Inconsistent charging voltage (12-13.5 volts). Had alternator rebuilt and checked good on bench. Still not charging correctly


I would guess the alternator is trying to run a maximum capacity, thats usually why they get hot, if you put the alternator on, take it back to the parts place you got it and have them warranty it, if you had a shop do the reapirs a year ago, you should still have warranty on it.. ps the light may flicker if its overcharging as well as undercharging. usually the regulator internally is bad.

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Apr 22, 2011 | 1995 Jaguar Vanden Plas

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Batery was checked as was the alternator. The


Many alternator checks ignore the fact that on some jeep systems the voltage regulator is not inside the alternator, but in the computer. A simple test is to put a volt meter across the battery when the engine is running Voltage should remain at 13,5 or slightly above. With headlights and all accessories on it should not drop below 12.9 and definitely should not continue to drop even after fifteen minutes or more. You should also check main fuses in the power distribution center. I believe there is a master fuse for the alt inside there. Though the battery was tested, if other tests reveal nothing, and your battery is past it's service life, It may be a good idea to replace it regardless of test results. It doesn't happen often but sometimes a battery can be just not up to par and still manage to pass testing, especially if the person testing has limited experience.Wiring is another issue and should be checked for contact condition and looseness though generally once installed those items don't have many problems, especially if they have been in service for some length of time.
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Dec 07, 2009 | 1997 Jeep Tj

1 Answer

The battery in my car is about 2yrs old and now


Generally the light will come on when the charging rate drops below normal, though sometimes it can actually go above. If wiring is intact, drive-belt is tight and battery tests good (age does not matter), the problem may be either a diode or regulator beginning to fail inside the alternator.
To get a good "ballpark" idea of how your system is working, put a volt meter on the battery and run it. Voltage should be about 13,5 volts then turn on all accessories. volts should not drop below 12,5 and should not slowly drop below 12volts.

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MY 1995 JEEP BROKE DOWN ABOUT A YEAR AGO I JUST HAD 3 MAIN FUSES REPLACED A BRAND NEW BATTERY AND A BRAND NEW ALTERNATOR BUT THE BATTERY WON'T KEEP A CHARGE I HAVE A SHORT SOMEHWERE BETWEEN THE FUSE BOX...


Have you checked the charging of the alternator at the battery? (not by a parts store) Put a volt meter across the battery and check voltage while running. You should be showing 13.5v or better (not over 14) with accessories off, 12.5 or better with everything on including high beams. If you don't, chances are you may have a regulator problem. I don't know how you are checking draw, but you should be using an ammeter placed between either battery terminal and cable (cable removed from battery) Unplug each fuse and watch for a substantial drop in draw. That system will be the one with the problem...then, unplug each component served by that fuse (with fuse replaced) till the draw again drops. That will be the component that is pulling your battery down. You did check the simple stuff like sun visor lights and glove box light?

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