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Antifreeze leak behind timing cover

Leaks where the two longer bolts go through the water pump but behind the next cover back

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Try replacing water pump gasket and or you might have a cracked water pump try replacing the water pump itself

Posted on Dec 11, 2012

  • kylejoetruck
    kylejoetruck Dec 11, 2012

    i have replaced both last week but it not the problem, its futher back where its leaking i even put silacone on the bolts, any other possibilities?



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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited

Hey there Dave,

Had the same thing happen to my Wrangler about three years ago.
It was the weep hole too.

I drained the coolant, dried the weep hole and plugged it with a small amount of that solid epoxy they market to fix holes in gas tanks. I refilled the radiator and the plug held.

It's still holding.
Just an alternative option


Posted on Nov 26, 2008

  • 532 Answers

SOURCE: Water leak next to block behind water pump.

if its anything like a 4.6 v8 in a 2000 f150 then there may be a hose under the intake,which the intake has to come off to fix it.and its a steel hose with a 3 inch piece of rubber hose on the end which is where it leaks,right behind the water pump\or alternator but actually down in the valley under the intake

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

  • 94 Answers

SOURCE: coolant leaking from behind timing belt cover.

Hi, This will be more likely to be the water pump.
hope this helps

Posted on Jul 15, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 dodge dakota antifreeze leak

Check out your freeze plugs. They are thin metal cups that press fit into the side of the block. Use a mirror and a light to inspect while the engine is running.

Posted on Aug 28, 2009

  • 2976 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 saturn vue 3.0 engine, replaced timing belt,

You could have a leaking water pump gasket. Did you put sealant on it when you replaced it? were ALL surfaces totally clean?

Posted on Oct 27, 2009

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2 Answers

How do I replace a water pump on a 1989 Ford Thunderbird Super Coupe--3.8 liter supercharged motor?

this is the pump rob / disconnect the battery cables/next jack up the car with a very sturdy reliable jack and place jack stands under the frame jack pads on each side behind the wheels(ex.) you'll see flat steel behind the wheels on the frame where there's enough room to place stands or a mechanics shop lift/ next drain the antifreeze into a drain pan big enough to hold 3 gallons then close the radiator petcock vale/drain plug when finished/next go to the pulley that is on the end of the pump and loosen the bolts while the belt is still on there is a belt tensioner that keeps the belt tight and if you have problems trying to loosen these bolts you can apply lift up tension on it using a ratchet or pry bar or wrench it depends on which one you have / a 3/8"-1/2" drive square for a ratchet or breaker bar/ or a bolt that you could put a socket or wrench over it you do this so it holds the pulley tight with the belt for stubborn pulley nuts/ next after the pulley removal and any other brackets that may be bolted to the water pump housing loosen the water pump mounting bolts and remove the pump if the pump is stuck on and your sure that all hold down bolts from the pump and other brackets are removed tap it with a rubber hammer or use a piece of wood and tap the pump to loosen it (DO NOT PRY ON THE PUMP OR TRY TO STICK A SCREW DRIVER BETWEEN THE PUMP AND THE TIMING COVER YOU WILL DAMAGE THE COVER AND THE PUMP WILL LEAK)

here's a bigger photo take off the hose clamps and remove the hoses once you did that if the pump won't come off stick a broom stick or ratchet handle or screw driver in the lower radiator hose tube and tug outward and it will come off ==== assembly take the new gasket and apply hi temp R T V or hi tack gasket cement or Indian head gasket shellac to the pump housing and place the gasket on the pump wait about 5 minutes or less you just want it to hold the gasket in place enough so you can turn the pump over without it falling off you can stand socket on the pump edges to keep the gasket down then apply the sealer to the other side on the pump or to the timing cover where the pump mounts and install it putting sealer on the bolts and putting 2-3 in to hold the pump on then put the others in and crisscross tighten them in place till snug then and additional 1/8 - 1/4 turn we just want them tight enough /WARNING! DO NOT CRANK THE BOLTS TO HIGH HEAVEN YOU WILL STRIP THE TIMING COVER AND BE ON YOUR WAY TO HELL WITH NO HANDBASKET ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS MAKE SURE THE BOLTS GRIP SNUG THEN JUST A LITTLE BIT TO BE ALL THE WAY TIGHT!/ NEXT REVERSE THE REMOVAL STEPS FILL WITH ANTI FREEZE AND CHECK FOR LEAKS THERE SHOULD BE NONE IF YOU FOLLOWED THE INFO GIVEN ///////// YOU MIGHT ALSO WANT TO CHANGE THE THERMOSTAT AT THIS TIME BEFORE FILLING WITH ANTIFREEZE


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Antifreeze leaked out from somewhere in the back of motor .the two front holes are not leaking no check engine.temp gauge rises to the top cant see the leak i just here pressure being released and some...

if it is coming from behind the r front tire and is a 4cyl the water pump has an o-ring that fits between pump and block and is behind timing cover where you can not see it. usually if it is leaking you can look under car at the engine on r-side at p/s pump area and can see where coolant has run down oil pump to oil pan from behind t-cover. hope this helped give me more info if not and good luck................

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Antifreeze leak

Most sudden leaks are caused by worn water pumps seals or a blown rad hose. depends on amount and location. the water pump has a weep hole on it, just behind the pulley if it is mounted on the front cover of the engine. if it is inside the timing cover the antifreeze will seem to be coming out of the engine. best way to find it is to wash the engine and then try to locate the area where it starts. a small mirror usually helps.

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