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Re: low growling sound at LF over 30 mph
18 mm for the Lower Ball joint Pickle fork-- and Tie rod --, 22mm or 15/16th for top of steering Knuckle
36mm at Axel Nut-- and 13mm for THE WHEEL BEARING Itself --- Bite it in a VICE they are Realy on there tight>> I Recomend Complete removal because you have the CV Boot Right there and one slip and Away goes the Boot.-- ALSO Be Carefull with the Antilock ring & Pickup Wire & Plug. Takes about 1.3 Hours per Brng
I Hope this is helpfull have a good day !!!!!!!!!
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This is usually a bad bearing. The tire is tilting to one side and causing uneven wear. The shimmy is because of the slack in the bearing and the contact the front rotor is having with the brake pad. Every time the low side comes around the rotor will hit the brake pad and grab it.
If the tire pressures were low and you put them back to the right pressures (use the placard on the lf door)
then the car will need to be driven above 25mph for at least 10 miles
or so but dont go over 40 mph the light may even start to flash as this
is being done indicating that the module is running the sensor test. if
that doesnt work then the car will need to be put on a scan tool to be reset.
Hope helped with this (remember rated this help) Good luck.
first rotate the tires see if there is a change. If that does not have a desirable effect there may be a worn wheel bearing,take note if the sound or vibration gets louder as you turn a corner, try left turns as well as right turns if the noise increases it is a wheel bearing.
To my knowledge, the only possible source of any growl (noise) underneath the car towards the center or rear would be the exhaust pipe after the converter before the muffler. Often they use rubber dougnuts as hanger support. A loose or broken support would significantly misalign thie exhaust pipe enough to cause vibration or wind induced noise.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.