Question about 2010 Mazda MAZDA3
I build cars for a living (Toyotas) so I do know what I am looking for. There are three sets of connections plugged into the back of the unit but no antenna connected. Again there is a place to plug the antenna jack into the radio but it has what looks like a screw holding a rubber plug in the hole.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
gently pull of the moulding around the top ac vents and control knobs, then yes, use a flat head screw driver to pry at the feathered mount at the bottom of the stereo. careful not to pull to hard the ac/heat controls could disconect. pain in the *** to put back.
Posted on Nov 03, 2008
The bulb is actually very easy and straight forward to replace.
If you are replacing one bulb, I suggest doing both at the same time and a twin pack is less than buying two packs seperately.
Posted on Nov 15, 2008
SOURCE: mazda 6 radio antenna location
the antenna lead is a round coax cable about the size of a pencil, it plugs into a hole in the back of the radio, U can feel it with your fingers.
Posted on Jan 16, 2009
Maybe you will be surprised but I have never used torque having replaced thousand of spark plugs so far. I prefer to feel by myself the right torquing. maybe not for yours but for several types of engine, you will have to use ratchet extension, universal joint(s) to reache the spark plugs affecting the reading of your torque wrench. Threads condition, temperature of the parts (cold, warm) will also influence right reading. Do not conclude that I never use T wrench. For your safety and part 'longevity' it could be mandatory.
These things being said, just for your info the right torque should be in between 11-17 pounds-feet (15-23 N.m)
Hereafter is the way I do.
- Follow the manufacturer recommendations about spark plugs specifications. If NGK has an equivalent, GO FOR IT it's the best
- New spark plugs will be already gapped to the spec so take care to not knock the electrodes
- Yes it's a good idea to put some 'antiseize' stuff on the spark plug threads. Take care to not go over and soil the electrodes
- Proceed when the engine is cool down
- Replace the spark plug one by one beginning by the most easy positionned. Going one by one will warming you up and will avoid wiring mixup (severe risk depending of the engine)
- Take care to avoid that any dirty drop in the head hole once a spark plug is removed
- Put in place new spark just using socket and rachet extension by hands. DO NOT use rachet at this point. Doing so, you'll have the feeling and will avoid to screw it cross-thread.
-When you're sure that it is well engaged (lets say screwed half of the threads) you can go ahead with your rachet. To avoid to get it 'overthighted' I drive my rachet with one hand
over the rachet head (not by the handle). When you feel that you are at the maximum of your strength using this way, then just give a LITTLE BIT of 'thighting' with one hand on the rachet head and the other on the rachet handle (lets say 10 degrees max) and that's it.
- If you have silicone grease apply some with a 'cuetip' in the boot of your wire before to put it back in place.
-Make sure that the wire is right back in place pushing on it firmly with an kind of rotational motion
- Repeat the same process for each of the others.
- If you don't feel safe, you can try to start your engine after each of the replacement for few seconds to make sure you did well. It could avoid problem investigation by the end if something went wrong during the whole process.
Maybe I provided to many details but maybe it could help any other beginner readers.
Sorry for my english
Hope it will help
Posted on Dec 22, 2009
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