Question about 2010 Mazda MAZDA3

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I have very poor radio reception in a 2010 Mazda 3. I purchased a signal booster. when I pulled the radio there was no antenna wire connected. Just a plug were the jack goes. I could find no wire for

I build cars for a living (Toyotas) so I do know what I am looking for. There are three sets of connections plugged into the back of the unit but no antenna connected. Again there is a place to plug the antenna jack into the radio but it has what looks like a screw holding a rubber plug in the hole.

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: How to remove the stereo from a 2000 Mazda Protege

gently pull of the moulding around the top ac vents and control knobs, then yes, use a flat head screw driver to pry at the feathered mount at the bottom of the stereo. careful not to pull to hard the ac/heat controls could disconect. pain in the *** to put back.

Posted on Nov 03, 2008

SOURCE: changing the headlight in a '02 Mazda tribute

The bulb is actually very easy and straight forward to replace.

If you are replacing one bulb, I suggest doing both at the same time and a twin pack is less than buying two packs seperately.

  • Removal
  1. Holding the connector on the sides squeeze and pull back away from you.
  2. Once the connector is removed, gently pull the rubber boot back.
  3. This will revail a snap type of clip. NOTE bottom of clip does come off. Push each top side of the clips towards you to relase them.
  4. Once the tops of the clip are undone let the clip swing down.
  5. slide the bulb out of the lens.
Caution DO NOT TOUCH THE NEW BULB WITH YOUR BARE HANDS. THE BODY OILS ON YOUR HANDS CAN CAUSE THE BULB TO GET HOT SPOTS AND BURN OUT QUICKLY.
  • Install
  1. To install the new bulb ensure the three keys are properly aligned with the lens when installed.
  2. Install buld into lens.
  3. Place clip over bulb.
  4. Place boot over bulbs making sure it is fully engaged into lens.
  5. Push connector back onto bulb.
  6. Check lights to make sure everything works.



Posted on Nov 15, 2008

emissionwiz
  • 74945 Answers

SOURCE: mazda 6 radio antenna location

the antenna lead is a round coax cable about the size of a pencil, it plugs into a hole in the back of the radio, U can feel it with your fingers.

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

c17hydro
  • 2984 Answers

SOURCE: I have a Mazda 3 2004. Coolant Sensor Location

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This is what it looks like and look for the connector.

Posted on Mar 15, 2009

  • 125 Answers

SOURCE: Installing new spark plugs in 2002 Mazda Protoge-how much torque?

Maybe you will be surprised but I have never used torque having replaced thousand of spark plugs so far. I prefer to feel by myself the right torquing. maybe not for yours but for several types of engine, you will have to use ratchet extension, universal joint(s) to reache the spark plugs affecting the reading of your torque wrench. Threads condition, temperature of the parts (cold, warm) will also influence right reading. Do not conclude that I never use T wrench. For your safety and part 'longevity' it could be mandatory.
These things being said, just for your info the right torque should be in between 11-17 pounds-feet (15-23 N.m)
Hereafter is the way I do.
- Follow the manufacturer recommendations about spark plugs specifications. If NGK has an equivalent, GO FOR IT it's the best
- New spark plugs will be already gapped to the spec so take care to not knock the electrodes
- Yes it's a good idea to put some 'antiseize' stuff on the spark plug threads. Take care to not go over and soil the electrodes
- Proceed when the engine is cool down
- Replace the spark plug one by one beginning by the most easy positionned. Going one by one will warming you up and will avoid wiring mixup (severe risk depending of the engine)
- Take care to avoid that any dirty drop in the head hole once a spark plug is removed
- Put in place new spark just using socket and rachet extension by hands. DO NOT use rachet at this point. Doing so, you'll have the feeling and will avoid to screw it cross-thread.
-When you're sure that it is well engaged (lets say screwed half of the threads) you can go ahead with your rachet. To avoid to get it 'overthighted' I drive my rachet with one hand
over the rachet head (not by the handle). When you feel that you are at the maximum of your strength using this way, then just give a LITTLE BIT of 'thighting' with one hand on the rachet head and the other on the rachet handle (lets say 10 degrees max) and that's it.
- If you have silicone grease apply some with a 'cuetip' in the boot of your wire before to put it back in place.
-Make sure that the wire is right back in place pushing on it firmly with an kind of rotational motion
- Repeat the same process for each of the others.
- If you don't feel safe, you can try to start your engine after each of the replacement for few seconds to make sure you did well. It could avoid problem investigation by the end if something went wrong during the whole process.
Maybe I provided to many details but maybe it could help any other beginner readers.
Sorry for my english
Hope it will help
Dan

Posted on Dec 22, 2009

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