Question about Cars & Trucks
I have replaced the temp control sensor checked wiring harness and reads at five as it says it should. I had sudden loss in power couple days ago and was like no gas was getting through so i checked the fuel pump pressure right where it should be. starts fine cold but once warmed up i have to pump the gas pedal a couple of times and hold it there then after a few seconds i can let go and it idles and drives fine??? i was attempting to change the crankshaft position sensor which i couldnt get out but noticed my ignition coil pack on cylinders 1&4 was cracked so i replaced that along with the fuel filter.
In the early 1990s there were two sensors, one for the gauge and one for the computer. If your engine only has one, it sends a signal to the computer and then to the gauge on the dash. If the sensor is working, the gauge on the dash may be faulty.
The sensor will not work correctly if the cooling system is low on fluid.
Posted on Dec 11, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
try this, the next time it quits leave the key in on position and get a broom stick and go to the passenger side of the car. About straight in at the back of the door ,reach under with the broom stick and tap the plastic gas tank a few times, have someone try to start it or go start it yourself. Mine did this even after the garage checked it out and cleaned the tank. Come to find out dirt settles around the fuel pump and clogs it. They just blame the pump but in my case the pump was fine. I was told Alero used a very small fine mesh in the sock that goes in the fuel pump and they clog up. But most of the dirt was around the plastic guard around the fuel pump. See if this works and let us know. Good luck
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
it starts from cold because the auto choke is on ,allowing a richer mixture ,try removing the sender unit in the tank and seeing if the connection from the pump to the outlet connection is ok or leaking causing a loss of fuel pressure
Posted on Aug 02, 2009
Don't waste your time.
Have the intake manifold gaskets (upper and lower) replaced.
Check all vacuum lines for leaks.
Clamp all vacuum hose connections.
Do NOT replace any sensors unless the computer codes indicate.
THIS WILL FIX YOUR PROBLEM!
Posted on Jan 15, 2010
SOURCE: just replaced head gasket, PCV
Hi and welcome to FixYa!
One thing can cause this.... A faulty PCM (powertrain control module). The PCM has connectivity on all current that runs inside the car which includes the engine, transmission, accessories, etc. It's like a car's brain that when it's faulty something will surely fail. One good reason why you have misfires.
Please try to swap the car's computer to resolve the problem.
Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!
Posted on Dec 20, 2010
SOURCE: have a 1998 chevy silverado
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WARNING! I'm sometimes accused of not giving short answers. However, my philosophy is that too much is better than too little.
Still with me?
This is how your problem is researched in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel pressure regulator or water in the fuel tank.
My second area of concern would be the manifold pressure sensor which is located under the hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in bracket. However, you must remember that these are nothing more than starting points and not guaranteed solutions at this preliminary stage.
First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.
For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.
• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start. The fuel pressure regulator has screen that can be removed with a small pick if it is dirty and appears to be clogged. Removing the screen will not affect the operation of the regulator.
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.
Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.
Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.
• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan - borrowed from AutoZone - is needed to identify any system trouble. Use this easy-to-use simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.
NOTE: Scan the system again after the vehicle is running. The reason is that non-related codes can be detected after the engine is running because sometimes false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner
All the best
Posted on Jun 24, 2011
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