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Temp gauage not working chevy S10 1998

I have replaced the temp control sensor checked wiring harness and reads at five as it says it should. I had sudden loss in power couple days ago and was like no gas was getting through so i checked the fuel pump pressure right where it should be. starts fine cold but once warmed up i have to pump the gas pedal a couple of times and hold it there then after a few seconds i can let go and it idles and drives fine??? i was attempting to change the crankshaft position sensor which i couldnt get out but noticed my ignition coil pack on cylinders 1&4 was cracked so i replaced that along with the fuel filter.

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  • Cars & Trucks Master
  • 21,873 Answers

In the early 1990s there were two sensors, one for the gauge and one for the computer. If your engine only has one, it sends a signal to the computer and then to the gauge on the dash. If the sensor is working, the gauge on the dash may be faulty.
The sensor will not work correctly if the cooling system is low on fluid.

Posted on Dec 11, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: quits while driving replaced many suspected parts

try this, the next time it quits leave the key in on position and get a broom stick and go to the passenger side of the car. About straight in at the back of the door ,reach under with the broom stick and tap the plastic gas tank a few times, have someone try to start it or go start it yourself. Mine did this even after the garage checked it out and cleaned the tank. Come to find out dirt settles around the fuel pump and clogs it. They just blame the pump but in my case the pump was fine. I was told Alero used a very small fine mesh in the sock that goes in the fuel pump and they clog up. But most of the dirt was around the plastic guard around the fuel pump. See if this works and let us know. Good luck

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

alicantecoli
  • 22258 Answers

SOURCE: 1980 VW rabbit, manual/fuel injection: I am

it starts from cold because the auto choke is on ,allowing a richer mixture ,try removing the sender unit in the tank and seeing if the connection from the pump to the outlet connection is ok or leaking causing a loss of fuel pressure

Posted on Aug 02, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: My '01 Tribute V6 3.0 has a rough idle at a cold

Don't waste your time. Have the intake manifold gaskets (upper and lower) replaced. Check all vacuum lines for leaks. Clamp all vacuum hose connections.
Do NOT replace any sensors unless the computer codes indicate.
THIS WILL FIX YOUR PROBLEM!

Posted on Jan 15, 2010

dj_relly999
  • 4070 Answers

SOURCE: just replaced head gasket, PCV

Hi and welcome to FixYa!

One thing can cause this.... A faulty PCM (powertrain control module). The PCM has connectivity on all current that runs inside the car which includes the engine, transmission, accessories, etc. It's like a car's brain that when it's faulty something will surely fail. One good reason why you have misfires.

Please try to swap the car's computer to resolve the problem.

Hope this helps and thank you for using FixYa! Have a good one!

Posted on Dec 20, 2010

bendarden
  • 984 Answers

SOURCE: have a 1998 chevy silverado

Improve the FixYa.com experience for everyone by voting!

WARNING! I'm sometimes accused of not giving short answers. However, my philosophy is that too much is better than too little.

Still with me?

This is how your problem is researched in my shop. Out of the box, I'd say that you have a problem with the fuel management system. However, there's a good chance that it's something simple and inexpensive like a clogged fuel pressure regulator or water in the fuel tank.

My second area of concern would be the manifold pressure sensor which is located under the hood, center, rear engine area, above valve cover, mounted in bracket. However, you must remember that these are nothing more than starting points and not guaranteed solutions at this preliminary stage.

First a little background for your edification. You may be aware of all this but we've never done business before and all assumptions are off the table.

For an engine - make that any engine and irrespective of manufacturer - to run, you need three things to happen inside the engine, compression, fuel and ignition, without any one of these components the engine will not run.

• Compression - Engine compression caused by crankshaft rotation and pistons moving up and down inside the engine block. If the timing belt or timing chain fails it will cause the camshaft to become out of correlation with the crankshaft or allow the camshaft to stop rotating. Either of these conditions will cause the engine to lose compression and sometimes cause internal engine damage.
• Fuel Delivery System - The fuel system includes: fuel pump, fuel injectors, pressure regulator, fuel filter and pressure lines. This system is used to supply fuel under pressure to the fuel injection system, the lack of fuel pressure or volume will cause the fuel delivery system to fail and the engine to stall or not start. The fuel pressure regulator has screen that can be removed with a small pick if it is dirty and appears to be clogged. Removing the screen will not affect the operation of the regulator.
• Ignition Spark Delivery System - The ignition system components include: spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor (if applicable), crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft angle sensor, ignition coil, ignition module, knock sensor and PCM (powertrain control module). The engine relies on the ignition spark to be delivered to the combustion camber at the correct time. If the ignition spark stops or is delivered at the wrong time the engine will not run or run poorly.


Whenever your engine cranks but does not start, runs rough, staggers, sags or cuts off, follow this Troubleshooting Guide. Some of these steps require a code scanner. They are costly but AutoZone will loan you one for FREE.

Most vehicles operate by the same principle; basic troubleshooting procedures apply to most cars.

• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) inspect all fuses using a test light and check the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels. If all fuses test okay continue to the next step.
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, Air Bag) and the fuses test okay a trouble code scan - borrowed from AutoZone - is needed to identify any system trouble. Use this easy-to-use simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and see if they relate to the specific problem, like a crank angle sensor failure code. If the trouble code present does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the car is running.


NOTE: Scan the system again after the vehicle is running. The reason is that non-related codes can be detected after the engine is running because sometimes false codes can be triggered by the engine not running. Once the engine is running again the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine doesn't run shouldn't it have a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the fuel pump fails the computer cannot detect the failure, so the engine doesn't start and the computer thinks everything is okay with no codes. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.

If you have trouble using the code scanner or interpreting the codes click on the following link and use my access code (carrepair): Free Automotive Repair information for Users of a Code Scanner

All the best

Ben

Posted on Jun 24, 2011

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Does the water temp gauge in the dash work? I'd be willing to bet it doesn't. Turn ignition on, check for voltage at water temp sensor harness. If voltage is present, replace water temp sensor. Check the air temp sensor also. If there's no voltage, find out why. Maybe both sensors are on the same harness on this truck and it has become disconnected somehow?
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My speedometer not working? is it cause of the after-market radio i put in be the reason.. mitsubishi galant 2002 6 cylinder


So we can rule out the speed sensor and its circuit to the PCM.

I just checked through another area of my database and it seems the speed sensor is systated as on the side of transaxle, near firewall, maybe you can dheck that out to confirm, just out of curiosity and for future reference and some portion of testing requires unplugging the conections.

Anyway I will provide a complete diagnostic pocedures for you to check through and hope an answer is found.

PS. After going through the diagnostic procedure, I believe your radio is the cause of the problem. Refer to # 10

SPEEDOMETER DOES NOT WORK

1. Connect scan tool to data link connector, check for Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC). If DTC P0500 (Vehicle Speed Sensor) is set, diagnose this DTC first. Go to step 6 . If DTC P0500 is not set, go to next step.

2. On Eclipse, if trip odometer is not working normally, go to next step. If trip odometer is working normally go to step 5. On Galant, if tachometer is not working normally, go to next step. If tachometer is working normally, go to step 5

3. Disconnect instrument cluster connector. Turn ignition switch to ON position. Connect DVOM between ground and instrument cluster connector terminal No. 52 (Black/White wire) on Eclipse or terminal No.29 (Black/White wire) on Galant. If battery voltage is present, go to next step. If battery voltage is not present, check harness connectors and harness wiring between instrument cluster and ignition switch for damage. Repair as necessary.

4. Using a DVOM, check resistance between ground and instrument cluster harness connector terminal No. 34 (Black wire) on Eclipse or terminal No. 30 (Black wire) on Galant. If resistance is less than 2 ohms, replace instrument cluster printed circuit board or speedometer and tachometer. If resistance is greater than 2 ohms, check instrument cluster connector and harness wiring. Repair as necessary. If connector and wiring are okay, go to next step.

5. Disconnect vehicle speed sensor connector and instrument cluster connector. Turn ignition switch to ON position. Connect DVOM between ground and harness side of instrument cluster connector terminal No. 29 (White/Blue wire) on Eclipse or terminal No. 16 (Yellow/Black wire) on Galant. Voltage should be 5 volts. If voltage is okay, repair or replace instrument cluster printed circuit board or speedometer and tachometer. If voltage is not 5 volts, check instrument cluster connector and harness wiring. Repair as necessary. If connector and wiring are okay, go to next step.

6. Disconnect vehicle speed sensor harness connector and connect DVOM to harness side. Check vehicle speed sensor power supply voltage between terminal No. 1 (Black/White wire) on Eclipse or (Black/Blue wire) on Galant and ground. Battery voltage should be present. If voltage is okay, go to next step. If voltage is not present, check vehicle speed sensor harness connector and wiring. Repair as necessary.

7. Using DVOM, check resistance between ground and vehicle speed sensor harness connector terminal No. 2 (Black wire). Resistance should be less than 2 ohms. If resistance is greater than 2 ohms, check instrument cluster connector and harness wiring. Repair as necessary. If connector and wiring are okay, go to next step.

8. Disconnect vehicle speed sensor harness connector. Connect DVOM between ground and harness side terminal No. 3 (White/Blue wire) on Eclipse or (Yellow/Black wire) on Galant. If 9 volts are not present, check vehicle speed sensor harness connector and wiring. Repair as necessary. If 9 volts are present, go to next step.

9. Check harness wiring between vehicle speed sensor connector to radio and tape player connector, auto-cruise control ECU ECM (M/T) or PCM (A/T) connector and instrument cluster connector. If connectors or wiring are damaged, repair as necessary. If connectors and wiring are okay, go to next step.

CAUTION: To prevent damage to scan tool, always turn ignition off before connecting or disconnecting scan tool.

NOTE: If ECM (M/T) or PCM (A/T) is replaced, immobilizer-ECU should also be replaced. Each ECM (M/T) or PCM (A/T) has an encrypted code for immobilizer-ECU, and is registered in immobilizer-ECU.

10. Connect scan tool to data link connector. Turn ignition switch to ON position. Read DTC. Disconnect radio and tape player connector. If DTC P0500 does not reset, replace radio and tape player. If speedometer does not work, disconnect auto-cruise control ECU connector. If DTC P0500 does not reset, replace auto-cruise control ECU. If speedometer does not work, disconnect instrument cluster harness connector. If DTC P0500 does not reset, replace instrument cluster. If DTC P0500 resets when any connector is disconnected, replace ECM (M/T) or PCM (A/T).
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