Question about Cars & Trucks
Tricky, but can be done at home. You need to pull the door panel off and use caution with the plastic retainers as they often dry rot and snap off.
Use extra caution with the power window switch wires too.
once you have the inside panel off, there will be a plastic sheet seemingly glued to the door shell. Peel it back enough to see the tiny access holes in the door.
The window motor should be about the size of your open hand and it will be connected to the window regulator.
Bad part is many are riveted to it, or to the door shell itself.
If so, those will have to be drilled out and you will need a rivet gun for a fresh install.
Also use caution as the window/regulator will fall down inside the door once you remove the 3 mounting points. (rivets or bolts)
Some motors are held to the regulator with a nut, some with small bolts, and still, some just pop in.
I believe you will have a small nut holding it to the regulator.
Take note on how it's installed so you can put the new one back in the same position. Also note the position (height & angle, of the regulator)
This is a simple concept but very hard as you have limited visibility and even less room to work.
I have small hands and skinny wrists, and have done many window motors, and I have yet to have one go smooth and simple just because of the limited work space.
I wish I could give you more direct instructions, but they vary so much from car to car.
Side note of caution. Make sure you can wear sleeves as the metal inside has sharp edges and you WILL be scratching yourself up.
Also have a magnet pick up tool hands for any parts that fall into the bottom of the door.
The new window motor may or may not come attached to a regulator.
You can remove it from the new regulator for install, or swap out the whole assembly, but that would require you to remove the old regulator from the bottom lip of the glass. (should be 2 plastic clips with a single screw in each, on each bottom edge of the window.
Not detailed, but I wish you luck.
Posted on Dec 10, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Disconnect the battery negative cable, carefully remove the door panel, make sure you remove all the visible hold down screws holding the arm rest and other things in place, be careful and observant, don't force anything. If you don't have the standard door panel removal tools, use a stiff putty knife or a wide screwdriver to remove the door panel, you will have to get the power window control switch and the lock control rods out of the way, take notes so you know how they go back together, Remove the plastic weather protection shield out of the way, try not to tear it because you will want to replace it using a good contact adhesive. Getting the motor and the lift mechanism out is the biggest challenge, There are two big rivets holding the motor and regulator assembly to the door, there are two more rivets closer to the rear of the door that holds the track and window guide in place. the rivets are difficult to drill out because it's not easy to center punch them. I used my 4 inch grinder to remove the rivet heads, be careful not to injure yourself or grind through the door metal. knock the rivets out. Remove the power supply wire from the motor. Use a 10 MM socket to untighten the two cap screws that hold the lift bracket to the bottom glass channel. Don't take the cap screws all the way out. Use a piece of wire to hold the window in the closed position. Loop the wire over one of the hold down cap screws and fasten the other end through one of the convenient holes near the top of the door. Now comes the good part. the motor and lift mechanism is all in one near rigid piece. The seat belt anchor blocks the door panel opening that would make it relatively easy to remove. Don't give up, the unit will come out with some thoughtful manipulation, the V shaped track guide will tolerate a small amount of flexing, don't overdo it. I finally got the assembly out by moving it as far to the back of the the door cavity as possible, use the angles of the assembly to your advantage to free it from the door. Once free, use a black marker to ensure you align your new motor in the correct postition. If you are replacing a complete assembly that looks the same a the part you removed, install by reversing the above directions. If you are replacing only the motor, drill out the two rivets that hold the motor to the lift assembly. this will be asy to do. fit your new motor in the exact same position, referring to the previous marks you made. If you are reusing the old lift mechanism, you should pull the perforated tape out of the guide, clean, inspect it, the guide and the tape, relubricate it, I used white grease, there is probably a better grease available. The motor assembly I received from an internet supplier came with rivets and machine screws to install the assembly, I used 1/2 quarter twenty nuts and bolts to replace the big rivets, I don't have a big enough rivet gun. If you go the quarter twenty way, use thread lock, install with bolt heads on the inside the door and flat washers and nuts to the car interior. Be observant, I left the plastic bracket that attaches the drive tape to the window bottom in an unsecure place, one of my dogs used it as a chew toy,so it was off to the junkyard one more time. Be sure to secure the tape properly at both ends. If it worn or frayed, several suppliers including rockauto supply them at reasonable cost. good luck.
Posted on Oct 10, 2008
I had the same problem with now power to windows, mirrors and seat. The common soulution is the orange and or black wire in the boot have broken between the door and post.
Posted on Dec 07, 2008
SOURCE: 1999 toyota solara power windows
These window motors do periodically fail. Instead of trying to tinker with the motor itself, best to cut right to replacing the window motor. You can buy them online. Don't buy the cheap ones with the short warranty. Make sure you get the ones that have a multi-year or lifetime warranty, as they are usually of a higher quality. I just replaced one for my 94 Camry and the part cost $67.00 with a lifetime warranty. Make sure that the bottom of the window is securely bolted to the unit, Check to make sure the bolt made it all the way through both parts, as it is easy to overlook it if not fully secure.
Posted on Jul 13, 2009
first remove the tweeter speker if equipped this comes off easily by gently prying from behind, then remove the small panel behind pull handle you"ll find a screw behind it\remove that,the next part is a little tricky the door grip needs to come off to achieve this place a small flat screwdriver at the top of the handle and pry forward the turn handle counterclockwise and this will release it from the clips you"ll then find 2 screws one at the top other at the bottom of door grip remove those and then gently pry from the bottom of the door panel to release the retaining clips thats it
Posted on Jul 14, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Passenger Front Door Module (PDM)
LH Rear Door Module (LRDM)
RH Rear Door Module (RRDM)
Driver Door Switch Assembly (DDSA)
RH Front Power Window Switch
LH Rear Power Window Switch
RH Rear Power Window Switch
LH Front Power Window Motor
RH Front Power Window Motor
LH Rear Power Window Motor
RH Rear Power Window Motor
Class 2 serial data circuit
Power door serial data circuit
PWR WDO 30 Amp Circuit Breaker
DRVMDL Fuse (10 amp)
Driver Door Switch Assembly and Driver Door Module logic, Driver Door Module internal driver operation
PASS MDL Fuse (10 amp)
Front Passenger Door Module logic and internal driver operation
RRDR MDL Fuse (10 amp)
Left Rear Door Module and Right Rear Door Module logic and internal driver operation
Do you know about computer controlled power windows ?
Power Windows Operation
The vehicle is equipped with power windows controlled by the door modules. Each passenger door window can be operated, either from a switch built into the driver door switch assembly (DDSA), or from a switch mounted locally to its associated door. The driver door window can be operated only from the driver door window switch built into the DDSA.
When a window is operated from the DDSA, the DDSA interprets the window switch signal as a specific window switch request and sends the information to the driver door module (DDM) via the power door serial data circuit. The DDM examines the request and checks to see if it has received any class 2 serial data messages from any of the other vehicle modules (i.e. ignition switch position) prohibiting the movement of the window. If the window being operated is the driver door window, and if no prohibitive class 2 messages have been received, the DDM then applies voltage and ground to the driver door window motor to move the window glass as requested. If the window being operated is a passenger door window, and no prohibitive class 2 messages have been received, the DDM sends the request, via the power door serial data circuit, to the appropriate passenger door module. The passenger door module then applies voltage and ground to the passenger door window motor to move the window glass as requested.
When a passenger door window is operated from the power window switch mounted locally to its associated door, the passenger door module first checks to see if the DDM has received any prohibitive class 2 serial data messages. If there are no prohibitive messages, the passenger door module powers the associated passenger door window motor.
Both front door windows have the express down feature. This allows the front door windows to be fully opened by momentarily pulling the appropriate window switch lever to the second detente and then releasing.
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