Did everthing by the book and keep having a head gasket leak. problem ended up being using a aftermarket headgasket, looking at the difference between the daewoo gasket and the aftermarket one , it was easy to see why. new orginal daewoo gasket solved the problem.
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These days most small cars have aluminum heads and the number of blown head gaskets that I have seen has increased a lot. Rule number one if you want your head gaskets to last is to not let these engines overheat. With the iron heads you could let the heat gauge run into the red with no real lasting or catastrophic damage - most of the time. With these aluminum heads you cannot do that. Whether you run out of water due to a leak or your 10 dollar thermostat sticks shut, you have got to pull over and stop the engine. If you don't, that 10 dollar thermostat could cost you over 900 dollars. To cool the engine as fast as possible just raise the hood with the engine off. DO NOT POUR WATER OVER THE ENGINE!!! That is very very bad and could easily junk your engine.
Ok lets say that for some reason you do blow a headgasket because the bolts were not originally tight enough or some other reason. You have some options as to repairs. You can go used from a junkyard or new. Used will be lots cheaper but harder to find a good one. Always take the used head to a reputable machine shop to be checked. Almost all used heads are already warped to some degree. Less is better and one that hasn't been milled before is lots better. Your machine shop should know how to bend aluminum heads so that they are really close to being straight. If they dont then the cam bearings wont be straight for the came. Remember both sides need to be straight. top and bottom. In most cases it is possible to straighten it enough that the cam area will not need to be rebored oversize, and the bottom can just be touched up with the milling machine. Next important bit is to not use Felpro gaskets. Use Corteco head gaskets on aluminum heads. Felpro works great on iron heads but most of the headgaskets I have seen blown were Felpro and very few were Corteco and of those few Cortecos blown, the engine was grossly abused where some Felpro ones had no history of abuse. Just trust me on this one. Now here is a tip that your mechanic may not like at all. Some of these gas engines have the head bolts right at the edge of the head. Usually two at each end and we wonder why all the heads are warped? Lets think about this a bit. If the torque specifications for a head say 160 foot pounds and the distance between head bolts is roughly 4 inches what is happening at the ends of the heads where there is half as much surface area clamping the gasket? Yep you guessed it. There is nearly twice as much pounds per square inch squishing the gasket at the ends. With time and heat this will warp the head. Now the part your mechanic may not like. I don't torque those 4 head bolts as much as I do the ones towards the center of the head. If it says to torque the bolts to 160 foot pounds then that's what they get except the 4 end ones will only get say about 145 or close to 10% less. Now I did not actually do all the math to compute the torque necessary to keep the pounds per square inch even for the end bolts but rather estimated. If you are or know an engineer that can compute that feel free to let me know the results.
In many cases of gurgling cooling system, you have a possible head gasket problem starting and the combustion from the engine is pressurizing the cooling system. Check your cooling system thoroughly for evidence of a possible blown head gasket.
Are you loosing cooling system water?
Is your radiator overflow tank being pressurized excessively by the engine. Headgasket problems can sometimes put some much pressure in that overflow tank that it begins to bulge outward.
Check the oil and look for any white/greyish milk shake consistency fluid on the oil fill cap or on the radiator cap. Keep a close eye on your oil and water levels if your gurgling sound continues. This is not normal and again, usually is a sign that there is a possible leak between the headgasket and a water jacket on the head.
Did you overheat the vehicle anytime soon? This will many times breech a head gasket between water jackets and begin spraying water in small amounts right into the engine cylinders, while it pressurizes the cooling system and makes gurgling noises.
overheating sound like faulty thermostat.thermostat either sticking close or could have blown headgasket if you see a lot of white smoke coming out of exhaust.if headgasket is leaking check engine oil should look milky.also check water pump look around weep hole or see coolant leaking around water pump replace water pump.also check water pump drive belt.make sure drive belt not loose slipping.
you have a blown headgasket. take spark plugs out and notice where they came from. if a plug looks clean like new and others look brown ,used, that is the cylinder that it is leaking into. also note the color of the oil. normal dark brown or is it overfull and a milky tanish brown. those also indicate a headgasket. But it is possible to have only one symptom and not the other or both.
Blown head gasket ... you keep pouring water in ... it is going into the engine contaminating the oil ... Get rid of the car. Dont consider repairing this 14 year old car. It will cost you more than $2000.00 if you can get it that cheap. Get rid of the car.
I would recommend the MITCHELL'S Online Manuals. Go to www.mitchell.1.com and you can get a single subscription for about $10. When I had my own repiar shop I had te complete set of Mitchell's. Very complete and just a good as the factory repair manuals (maybe better). I especially liked the wiring diagrams. Very complete.
Good Luck. . . . . BTW, you SHOULD replace the head bolts regardless of which type of gasket you use. Once they are torqued, they shouldn't be used again.
First, anytime a thermostat is overheated, it's ruined.
Second, if this car has electric fans, are they running when they are supposed to? If not, replace the fan control module, and/or test/replace the fan motors.
When the radiator was replaced, were you certain to purge the radiator and engine of all air before replacing the radiator cap? When you refill an emptied system, you always start the engine and watch the fill level in the radiator, refilling as necessary until you know the thermostat has opened. You need to have the heatrer controls set to full hot as well. Once the radiator is filled, put the cap in place, and fill the reservoir to the level indicated for a hot engine.
Finally, check to make sure the lower radiator hose is not collapsing while driving. While this is difficult to check (because your going down the road), just replace it when you replace the thermostat.
All of this assumes you do not have a cracked head or blown head gasket.