Question about Cars & Trucks
Running rough & shaking, does not provide us with
any test results, or anything to work with. to suggest
We need to know if fuel pressure was checked ,spark across
all cylinders,fuel trim,vacuum leaks,things smoke tested
If your going to go to a shop any way-- do so or say so
If they can't resolve --give us the info to help you
Posted on Dec 10, 2012
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
The list of things to check is long and for the most part basic. I'd start with general tune-up diagnostics. My money is on the the dist cap & rotor as your culprits -these get the most wear, easiest to fix and the 1st place I'd look. It will cause it to run rough and die when you accelerate because it is not firing or firing the wrong cylinders. It may look good but still have a crack that you can't find. But I predict you will find a nice little pile of carbon dust and states of corrosion on the rotor & pins in the cap like I did when I had the same problem on my Civic a few years ago.
If that doesn't do the trick, you want to start by determining if it is dying from too little fuel or a weak spark
Weak spark will cause flooding- too much gas leftover after a weak spark eventually floods the engine- you will probably smell gas at the throttle body and you will have to wait before it will start again due to flooding. Not an absolute diagnostic, but if you smell fuel you can be pretty sure your problem is ignition or emissions related. It may still be an emissions component such as EGR or even a clogged cat or a potato stuck up the tailpipe.
Lean fuel conditions point to the fuel filter, fuel rail and fuel pump pressures and injectors.
General tune-up diagnostics:
Ignition: dist cap & rotor; Check plugs and wire conditions; Ignition coil or transistors may be bad but not causing a total loss of spark
Fuel & Emissions: Fuel filter, fuel rail pressures, EGR & PCV valves; check diagnostic codes from your OBD it might give a clue.
Hows your compression and timing? If you have over 90Kmiles and you haven't replaced your timing belt it may have stretched or jumped a gear notch. If this is the case you should change it before it breaks and bends your valves, causing expensive damage to the valve train.
If you want to fix your own then pick up a Haynes manual for your model and pick up the Haynes emissions & fuel injection books to demystify emissions computer codes, troubleshooting and repair. You can probably borrow these from your library or pick them up cheap at a used book store if money is tight.
Posted on Apr 30, 2009
Possible injector failure. locate by disconnecting injectors one at a time. The one that makes no change is the questionable. Status of spark plugs need chkg also. pull the plugs an the one that looks washed is questionable good luck
Posted on May 22, 2009
I would take it to a local Auto Zone, or Advance Auto, they can run it through the diagnostic computer and see what codes are tripping, most likely it's going to be for a cylinder mis-fire, i would try making sure all the plugs are good, and check and see if all the plug wires are secured tightly.
Posted on Nov 16, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Nov 03, 2017 | 1990 Honda Accord
Apr 24, 2012 | 2001 Honda Accord
Apr 23, 2010 | 2002 Honda Accord
Nov 16, 2009 | 2005 Honda Accord
Nov 16, 2009 | 1992 Honda Accord
Aug 14, 2009 | 1992 Honda Accord
Jun 20, 2009 | 1983 Honda Accord
May 14, 2009 | 1994 Honda Accord
70 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: