Question about 2004 Audi TT 1.8L
I had an oil sensor display issue. Nothing wrong with car (checked by dealer). However I noted very wet floor in boot and interior boot side panel separated from above the right rear wheel arch. I couldn't get it to snap back in. The underside of the boot lid has fabric panels that are soaking. The floor of the boot is wet. The gap between the side panel I can see condensation build up on the metal of the car. All seals look in tact. Flummoxed. Audi want to charge for diagnostics on each investigation. They've already charged me loads in investigating and changing the oil sensor. Is there anything I can do or advice my local mechanic to do. Once I put fabric on floor to stop water going through and stuffed a bin bag down the side to prevent water sepage the oil sensor light turned off! Coincidence? Many thanks. M
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1999 Audi A4 Locking mechanism
It sounds like the vacuum pump has gone out. The locks are vacuum-pump operated, and they're known to eventually fail on these and VW cars. Check that out - in my 99, the unit is in the trunk, passenger side. You have to remove the storage well between the wheel arch and the taillight, and pull the carpeting back, and the unit is down there just a bit below floor level.
Posted on Jul 26, 2008
SOURCE: 2002 audi a4 oil light issue
There are potentially two different problems here.
1. A fault with the actual oil pressure.
2. An electrical fault with the switching circuit.
If you are confident the problem is not with the oil pressure, disconnect the wiring from the switch for a period of time. If the light still comes on periodically the fault must be with the wiring circuit shorting to earth. There will be no fire hazard to this approach as the voltage will drop over dash lamp.
However if the problem is with the oil supply system, the danger with this approach is you are potentially unaware of a serious problem
Such as the oil filter collapsed or the oil pressure release spring could be jammed open/closed which would cause the engine to not have the correct operating pressure.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
As noted in one of the earlier questions on the topic, it appears (will verify for certain after the pump is removed) the plastic resevoir tank has cracked and the hydraulic fluid was lost. Leakage was visible in trunk once spare tire removed.
Audi also noted this is not unusual for a vehicle this age, and the replacement tank is a $100 kit.
Posted on May 20, 2009
Not likely the ABS pump there is something wrong with the mechanical brakes it sounds like the emergency brake is not adjusted try adjusting the rear cable first then pull the emergency brake and push your foot on the brake if it is still to the floor you have a problem with a cylinder or a mechanical adjustment, if it's higher with the E brake on then you have the adjusters not set right and the cables not adjusted, So adjust the cables first. If the brakes are spongy with the engine off then it will need to be power bleed if that does not fix it then you may have the wrong brake shoes or pads on the car. Did you install the plates in the wheel rotor front braes? If not you lose 1/4 inch travel on the from pads, if the basic brakes are not right the ABS side is not going to be right so those problems have to be dealt with first. Also DO YOU HAVE A POWER ASSIST BOOSTER IF SO IT COULD BE BAD, TO TEST HAVE SOMEONE STEP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL AND PULL THE HOSE OFF THE BRAKE BOOSTER IT'S behind the master cylinder (sorry for the caps) if you don't here a suction sound when you remove the hose then you have a bad heck valve by the booster connected to the hose that plugs into the booster. if all of this is ok then it may be the ABS booster but normally its a bleeding problem. write a comment if this does not help or you need another lead,
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
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