Question about Cars & Trucks
Leave the EGR disconnected and if any problems make a blocking gasket from a coca cola can to seal it off .This will not affect the engines performance ,did older cars have this valve??
Posted on Dec 10, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
If you have small hands it can be easy. The space between firewall and EGR is tight but it wasn't too difficult to remove. The vacuum hose at the bottom was hard to pull off and I ended up cracking it and had to splice it. It was more difficult to re-install the EGR then remove it. I had a difficult time with keeping the gasket aligned while bolting it in to the lower tube. I took a few attempts. I suggest when replacing the EGR leave the mounting bolts loose so you can more easily align the metal tube. I would tighten the metal tube at the bottom of EGR first then tighten the upper two mounting bolts on top. It took me about 5 minutes to remove and 15 minutes to replace. I would be sure to clean the IAC too after cleaning the EGR. I sprayed throttle bottle cleaner down the bottom hole located on the throttle body and let soak about 15 minutes then start and run the engine a minute and repeat the process. This helped smooth the idle while stopped at a light. It also stopped the idle from shaking and almost stalling the car out at a traffic stop when the engine was warm.
Posted on Jul 10, 2008
I can't tell you were to get one, except at a dealer, but what you need is a vacumn diagram. They are similar to an wiring diagram.
Posted on Nov 26, 2008
SOURCE: 1987 toyota 22r engine
That is usaully the vacuum advance diaphram on the distributor. Its job to advance the distributor when at idle. The diaphrams inside rot and leak air, causing it not to advance. Take off the distributor cap and use a vacuum pump to individualy test each port (two of them) on the vacuum advance diaphram. You should see it pull back, if not replace it. They are sold at your local auto store, oddly its cheaper to get a whole distributor that has one for $100 that to get it alone for $150.
Posted on Dec 28, 2008
SOURCE: no vacuum to egr valve
there is an EGR vacuum solenoid somwhere that controls on/off vacuum to actuate the valve. i am not to sure of the location, but follow the vacuum line back from the egr until you find a device that looks like an electrical check valve for vacuum. that is a possibilty. but then again i am a ford,chrysler guy and am just giving you an answer based on my understanding of the functuality of a vacuum egr system
Posted on Jan 15, 2009
There is a VSV (vacuum switching valve) , usually mounted on the back side of engine block, under the intake manifold, as well as the map sensor, that can also cause that code if one or the other is faulty. It takes some pretty detailed troubleshooting to confirm this in some cases, so if that's not in your line of work, you may have to have it properly diagnosed, or take a 50/50 shot at which one first.
Posted on Jan 24, 2009
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