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Re: heater control valve location 2000 Durango
In the 2000 Ford F150, you'll find the heater control valve by looking right above the battery. You'll find a little black hose leading to it. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Renault CAN Clip
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If you are looking for some sort of water valve that diverts water to/from the heater core, forget it. They don't exist anymore. They went away shortly after the widely adapted use of air conditioning in today's modern cars. Now, hot coolant is routed thru the heater core at all times, but is controlled by a cable-operated, or vacuum operated "blend door" located inside the heater box. If you are not getting heat to the vehicle, there are a few possible problems:
1. Bad thermostat - thus low coolant temperature and lack of heat.
2. Clogged heater core - no water flow thru core, thus no heat.
3. Broken control head - loss of cable or vacuum actuation of blend door.
4. Broken heater box/vacuum tank - no actuation of blend door.
Of the items listed above, based on the age of the vehicle and the likelihood of occurrence, I would investigate them in the order of 2, 4, 1, 3.
No heat can be caused by numerous things. First, make sure the coolant level is full and all the air is bled out of the system. Next, bring the engine to operating temperature. Feel the hoses that go into the heater core. Both hoses should be close to the same temperature. If one hose is hot and the other is warm/cool, suspect a plugged heater core. A back flush on the heater core will usually correct this problem. If both heater hoses hot, there will be a problem with the internal heater box. Most likely a blend door motor that controls the hot/cold air function
Most cars today do not have a water diversion valve for the heater core; rather they use a blend door in the ducting under the dash. There are a pair of them. One door diverts input air either through the heater core or the A/C evaporator, or both. This will control temperature. The other door diverts air to the floor vents, dash vents, or the defroster vents. These doors are vacuum-controlled on most models. You could have a door problem, or possibly a clogged heater core. To check the heater core, run the vehicle to operating temperature, and then trace the heater hoses to where they enter the firewall. Check each hose for temperature. The inlet hose should be very warm to the touch, and the outlet one the same or slightly cooler. If the outlet hose is much cooler than the input, there is probably a restriction in the heater core.
The heater control valve is located on the passenger side rear of the engine. It has a vacuum line hose that opens and closes the valve. Remove the vacuum line hose, start the engine with the temperature set to cold and see if there is any vacuum on the line. Then set the temperature to the HOT position and see if there is any vacuum on the line. Vacuum should be present on ONE setting only. If nothing happens check for proper vacuum to the control assembly. The valve is vacuum operated, if no vacuum is present the valve won't work.
there are a few things that could be wrong here so lets see if we can help you out answers to these questions are important 1.was the car overheating? yes/no 2.does the fan operate when you turn on the heater from low/high? yes/no 3.do you smell antifreeze our is there a leak that can be seen on the engine/on the ground/inside the passenger area ? yes/no 4.did you check the fuses for all components related to the heater A. Automatic temperature control/fan motor B. Does this only happen when you are accelerating? ex. all fan/heater force disappears and comes back when you let up on the gas peddle/or the engine RPM stabilizes Al Diggs maybe right here this is possible, but we all need a little more specifics on when this is happening, so a better description of what exactly is happening will help us help you and stop you from spending more $$$ without proper results so PLEASE CHECK ALL ITEMS LISTED HERE A. are you losing coolant B. do you hear a hissing noise in the passenger or engine compartment C. Are all fuses good inside passenger fuse box/ engine power distribution box Please post back with more specifics/answers and we will get to the cause of your problem here stephen
It is probably the blend doors in the heater case not opening correctly. They are probably vacuum operated doors.
Check the heater core by feeling both heater hoses (the inlet and outlet) when the engine is at normal operating temperature. Both hoses should feel hot, meaning the heater core is circulating coolant correctly. If only one hose feels hot, the heater core may be plugged up, or it may have an air block.
If the heater core checks out good, check the heater case doors for proper movement when you switch from cold to heat. Several vacuum lines branch out from back of the control unit to vacuum canisters on the case, which open or close the various doors. These doors used to be only cable operated, but most are now vacuum operated. There should be a single vacuum hose from the engine, into the firewall, and then to the heater control unit in the dash, where hoses distribute the vacuum signal to various doors or vents as demanded by the switch settings.
1: not enough liquid in the system (air in the heater core) 2: inoperative heater valve not allowing hot liquid into the core 3: hot/cold blend door in the heater box stuck on cold 4: clogged heater core A clogged heater core will have one hot hose and one significantly cooler hose at the firewall connection; easily tested by hand. a good core will have both hoses very hot to the touch when the heater is on full blast. Make sure that the system is full and at operating temperature, and the heater controls set on full heat. Feel the hoses at the firewall; if they are both too hot to touch then the problem is in the heater box or controls.
Check for correct coolant mixture. Also you could have a thermostat that is stuck completely open causing it to flow straight threw the engine block, cylinder heads, heater core, an radiator without stopping long enough to heat the coolant up to provide cab heat. It could also be a clogged heater core. Or a blend door on the HVAC box that is not allowing the heater core door to open. Hope this helps.
There are a couple of different things that could cause the loss of
heat. First make sure your radiator and overflow tank are full and at
there specified levels. Run the engine till it reaches operating
temperature( between 180 and 220 degrees). Feel the upper radiator
hose and lover radiator hose , they should both be HOT , this lets you
know your thermostat is working. If the top hose is hot and lower
hose is cold. Replace the thermostat. If they are hot, check to see if
both heater core hoses are hot ( 2 5/8 in black hoses heading into the
firewall). If one side is hot and one side is cold, replace the
heater core. If both are hot, you may have a broken cable or vacuum
diaphragm that moves the direction control valve from hot to cold.
Below are some example diagrams to help aid you in your diagnosis.
Either your heater control valve is not properly operating or your heater core is clogged. Locate the heater control valve under the hood, should be close to firewall on heater hose, have someone adjust temperature from hot to cold and see if you can see the heater control valve operating if so replace the heater core, if its not doing anything replace it(heater control valve).