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I replaced original rotors with ATE slotted rotors and Hawk pads. After
a couple times braking very gently, a noise came out. It wasn't
squeaking, but it was something more like a beating, or in other words
at 360 degrees of revolution, it looks like something touches just in
one point. It is coming out of both the front wheels. Later I installed
the old rotors with the same new pads, and there was no noise. Does
anyone have any suggestions on this problem?
The ATE brake rotors have elliptical grooves and are not specified by manufacturer as left or right side.I tried another brand of pads in combination with these rotors and had the same problem.
The ATE brake rotors have elliptical grooves and are not specified by manufacturer as left or right side.I tried another brand of pads in combination with these rotors and had the same problem.
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DO THE ROTORS HAVE A LEFT AND RIGHT SIDE? POSSIBLY INSTALLED BACKWARDS? ASK THE PARTS STAORE ABOUT LEFT & RIGHT SIDE ROTORS & DO HAWK PADS CLASH WITH ATE ROTORS? POSSIBLE DEFECTIVE PADS?
WHY DID TOU REPLACE THE ROTORS WITH SLOTTED ROTORS? WERE THE ORIGINALS MAKING THE SAME NOISE OR WERE THEY GETTING HOT? WHEN YOU DEPRESSED THE CALIPERS,WERE THEY HARD TO DEPRESS (FREEZING)? IS YOUR EMERGENCY BRAKE COMPLETELY OFF? LET ME KNOWWHY DID TOU REPLACE THE ROTORS WITH SLOTTED ROTORS? WERE THE ORIGINALS MAKING THE SAME NOISE OR WERE THEY GETTING HOT? WHEN YOU DEPRESSED THE CALIPERS,WERE THEY HARD TO DEPRESS (FREEZING)? IS YOUR EMERGENCY BRAKE COMPLETELY OFF? LET ME KNOW
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A complete brake inspection is necessary, but anyway, overheated disc brake rotors that got red-hot will most probably got twisted or damaged and will be in need of replacement.
In my Stratus (a 2002 turbocharged R/T Sedan) I installed Premium ATE Brand rotors which have an elliptical slot. These Premium discs are needed at my altitude of more tan 7350 ft above sea level because engine vacuum is barely adequate to stop the car, and by using those rorots together with ceramic brake pads from Centris Parts (Posi-Quiet Brand) I achieved much better braking power. Amclaussen.
Look through the openings in your front wheels and look at the front rotors-are they gouged up? You are probably running metal-to-metal, pads to rotors. Chances are real good your rotors will have to be replaced along with new pads, but if you catch it early enough you might be able to have them machined, although nowadays that is hardly easy to get done and the savings usually is not as significant as it once was.
Brake pads are worn. That noise is the sound of the backing plate for the brake pads hitting the rotors. You will need to replace the pads and probablt the rotors. When the brakes go metal to metal like that it typically destroys the rotor.
A couple things to look for. Brake pads wear over time and they have a 'squealer' that is designed to make a noise to alert the driver that the brake pads are getting low. This will sometimes remain in slight contact with the rotor while driving as well. Sometimes instead of squealing you will hear a harsher grinding noise.
It is possible that there is some sort of debris lodged in the brake assembly as well contacting the rotor.
When replacing the brakes, be sure to pay close attention the the sliders and that they are cleaned and lubricated properly as they allow the brake pad to move away from the rotor after braking.
You did not mention working on the rear brakes, so I must assume that the rear brakes are still original equipment. Perhaps the grinding noise is coming from the rear.
Are your pads warn out ??
Is it metal on metal ?
If you can not determine if you pads are warn out - you should not attempt to replace pads and rotors yourself..
it could be because they are dirty. also the noise could be the back brakes. if its a squeaking noise it could be that they are dirty or that they are cheep brake pads and for the first couple of weeks they squeak. also when you got your breaks changed did the break shop cut the rotors because that cleans them up and makes the rotors like new.
black caliper and black caliper bracket = ATE (Teves), the other color is Akebono. To replace pads, use a screwdriver to stick into slot to pry caliper open a bit. Remove 2 caliper pins (under plastic caps on rubber caliper boots.) Lift caliper from rotor. Remove old pads. Wipe caliper anti-squeak onto back of new pads, and place pads into caliper. Replace caliper onto rotor and bracket. Insert pins and tighten securely (you can lubricate the pins) Replace plastic boot covers. Install wheels. Lower vehicle.
Sounds like your brake calibers are sticking. Get new ones and new pads. You probably should get new rotors also because with the dragging calibers they most likely got hot and are warped. Search on ebay and www.rockauto.com . I personally use power stop drilled and slotted rotors with mid grade pads. You can probably get a whole kit.
The ATE brake rotors have elliptical grooves and are not specified by manufacturer as left or right side.I tried another brand of pads in combination with these rotors and had the same problem.
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