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How to get pressure back in clutch

So i have changed the clutch and slave cyliner/throw out bearing and bleed the clutch little came out but no change in the pedal

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Gently hold the front of the earring with one hand and use the thumb and forefinger of your other hand to grasp the clutch back. Roll it between your fingers while applying steady pressure backwards away from your ear-- it should come right off.-------------------------------------------------------------------------
Digiprog 3

Posted on Dec 10, 2012


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2001 Honda Accord Clutch Issue

check the actual pedal and clutch linkage.  Also look for a fitting thats emitting air into the system.

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

  • 260 Answers

SOURCE: Bleeding clutch slave cylinder

i think youre doing the right thing. they are very stubborn to bleed because the hyd. line goes up high across back of engine before droppiing back down to slave cyl., trapping air. could try to gravity bleed by opening bleeder at slave, cap off of master cyl, full with fluid then it may start to come out after a bit. then try your process again. or can try to bleed at connections further up the line, working your way back to bleeder. hope this helps. be patient.

Posted on Nov 15, 2008

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SOURCE: Bleeding Clutch slave cyliner

The best way is to gravity bleed. Open the bleeder nipple on the slave cylinder and let the fluid drip till it's steady and no bubbles. close and dopne deal. loosen reservoir cap while bleeding.
good luck

Posted on Jun 08, 2009

  • 6982 Answers

SOURCE: new clutch not working properly really could use some help

My best guess on this, assuming that the clutch master is working and it has no air remaining in the system is that you either have the wrong throwout bearing in there or that it is installed incorrectly. Also, rare but can happen is that if the pressure plate assembly is a rebuilt one, the face has been cut too far and clearances are off.
Obviously, check everything external before taking it apart again, but that's where I think you will need to go.

Posted on Nov 18, 2009

Testimonial: "thanks did have some issues installing throw out bearing so maybe that is my problem"

  • 99 Answers

SOURCE: i cant get pressure to my clutch pedal in my 1995

You cannot bleed these clutch hydraulics. They are meant to be a pre-bled sealed unit that you buy. You should never replace just the slave or the master. Buy them both and replace them as one unit which is already bled from the factory. Otherwise you will experience what you are describing.

Make sure you install the slave cylinder (into the transmission hole) first and then the master cylinder (pedal side) next and do not hook up the pedal until everything is installed.

If you take the slave out with the pedal attached it will extend the rod and ruin the hydraulics rendering them useless.

Posted on Feb 24, 2010

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How do you bleed a slave cylinder when there is no clutch? Rebuilt all components. Found a leak in hydraulic system of clutch release cylinder. No pedal at all. What do I do?

how did you find a leak in the clutch if there is none should have went to a mechanic in the first place sounds like .

Mar 11, 2015 | 1993 Mazda MX-3

3 Answers

I just replaced clutch on 1993 Honda accord ex and the release cylinder isn't pushing the release bearing enough to shift when car is running

I really need more info such as...Mileage,did you do the job yourself,if so was the slave cylinder and or clutch master cylinder changed and did you bleed the system..?...So I will explain without knowing,,...Before a clutch wears completely out we find ourselves constantly working the clutch pedal stressing all clutch system components..In most cases I have looked closely and found slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder leaking ..however the slave cylinder can wear out without leaking..Most importantly the fluid itself wears out every 15 to 20,000 miles.. You don't notice but the fluid gets thousands of tiny air bubbles in it and makes the clutch weak and spongy..(Same with brakes)..You should always bleed system with an assistant just as you would a brake system..,This alone will cause the problem you are experiencing...If you already know that and you have bled the clutch system then you know the slave cylinder is at fault..(UNLESS THERE WAS SOME TYPE OF MISALIGNMENT WITH RELEASE BEARING....YOU SHOULD ALWAYS CHANGE RELEASE BEARING WITH FORK WHEN DOING A CLUTCH SERVICE..)...I assume you did...I would inspect for leaks..,Bleed it again if no leaks...If that don't help and no leaks are found change slave cylinder and or master cylinder.....I hope this helps........Brooks/Metalpoet.......

Jun 13, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why is there a vibration in my 2004 Jeep Wrangler clutch peddle?

do no use 4x4 on dry pavement. or you will wind it up and make i far worst. ( no NP129/229) you have 228 xfr case.

the clutch has many parts.
did you change out the throw out (release) bearing?
and the pilot bearing?
and check the front of the transmission main pilot shaft , for wobble ?
if the front transmission bearing is bad, the clutch disc can bounce
and you release the clutch.
was it quality clutch not china no name?
ebay clutches that are dirt cheap are dirt. (junk)
exidy is ok.

bell bolts loose.
PP bolts not at spec, torque.
clutch disc in backwards, nah.

yes you can bleed the clutch. (no if still stock)
the stock slave is sealed.
after market slaves can be put on and bled.
just like all clutch slaves can be, but are tad tricky as the bubbles want to bo up. like a motor cycle or air craft.
i gravity bleed mine.
or use 2x4 to hold clutch down and let the bubbles float out. 24hrs.

FSM skips this step, cuz its sealed system.

your jeep has no center differential or read prop shaft slip clutch like one year had.
so it not full time 4wd its part time.

May 09, 2014 | Jeep Wrangler Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 2000 mazda 323 with a manual transmission. i have already change the clutch kit but the gear is still hard to shift

Check the hydraulic clutch operation. This is a clutch master cylinder with a reservoir on the firewall, and a clutch slave cylinder down on the bell housing of the transmission, with a steel tube running from the master to the slave cylinder. When clutch pedal is depressed, hydraulic fluid (brake fluid) is forced from the master to the slave. The slave cylinder should push out a little plunger that contacts the clutch fork lever-pushing it forward to engage the clutch.
Add brake fluid to the reservoir if needed. Watch the plunger on the slave cylinder: if it moves little, or not enough, try bleeding the slave from the bleeder valve. They are bled just like brakes. If bleeding doesn't help, your clutch master or the slave may need replacing. The master cylinder, like a brake master, has internal seals that hold hydraulic pressure, so force can be applied to the plunger on the slave cylinder.

Dec 09, 2013 | Mazda 323 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

What is best way to bleed slave cyl

please go to and translate this website with your browser this amazing sites. and fix it.

God bless you

Jul 08, 2013 | 1991 Chevrolet S-10

1 Answer

I changed the slave cylinder and now my clutch will not disengage. I have even bleed the slave and its still stuck. What now?

when you replaced the pressure plate did you notice that one side was inscribed "fly wheel side" Also did you replace the throw out bearing the fork that works it from the slave cylinder may have come loose or not in correctly. Have a friend watch the slave cylinder for movement as you pump the clutch several times. Good luck

Feb 10, 2013 | 1983 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

New clutch not working properly really could use some help

My best guess on this, assuming that the clutch master is working and it has no air remaining in the system is that you either have the wrong throwout bearing in there or that it is installed incorrectly. Also, rare but can happen is that if the pressure plate assembly is a rebuilt one, the face has been cut too far and clearances are off.
Obviously, check everything external before taking it apart again, but that's where I think you will need to go.

Nov 18, 2009 | 1991 Toyota Pickup

2 Answers

Clutch problems

It has been a long time since I saw one of these of this age, but I am fairly sure it is a hydraulic unit. They consist of a master cylinder on the firewall and a slave inside the bell housing. There is an access hole on the bottom of the bell housing. You can see movement of the throw out bearing on the pressure plate from it. I would verify that the system has fluid in it (small canister mounted to the side of the left fender by hood hinge). If so, check for movement on the ctuch plate as someone moves clutch pedal.

It could be the clutch assy being bad or the hydaulic system. Regardless, it you go through the work of changing the clutch, change the slave cylinder. It really sucks to take a chance and them have to pull it all over again to change the slave the 2nd time around. They bleed just like a brake system only they are more difficult to get working just right. Bleed, bleed, bleed!

Apr 06, 2009 | 1988 Ford Bronco II

2 Answers

The clutch split in two replaced it with new one but since then clutch pedal will not retern and clutch is constantly ingaged changed slave and master still the same

Did you bleed air out of slave cylinder? Was the pressure plate and clutch release bearing in good shape? Did you make sure the disk was turned with the springed side facing the pressure plate and not the flywheel?

Mar 20, 2009 | 1997 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

Trouble engaging clutch

Check the clutch slave cyliner for leakage. Is the resivoir full? It may be either your clutch master or clutch slave cylinders. The car is kinda new to need a release bearing or clutch disc. Check your hydraulic system (master and slave).

Dec 30, 2008 | 2007 Honda Insight

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