Question about Cars & Trucks
Car will not start. No reason or problem detected. Possible wiring issue. Cannot locate where 2nd grounding wire goes on firewall.
Not sure what you are saying about a second wire. The neg battery cable should have a large and small wire, the large goes to the engine near the starter, and the small goes to the fender near the battery.
Posted on Dec 10, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I need to know if the other gauges are accurate. There is a voltage regulator mounted on the back side of the dash that can go bad and often does, that will make the other gauges inaccurate also.
Posted on Dec 02, 2008
Wire could go to rear of cylinder head. Going from the firewall to the master cylinder really does not make much sense as that assembly is bolted to the firewall and is grounded there. Generally most systems have multiple ground points, which is why you likely don't have any problems other than finding a home for that wire. On lots of vehicles I've owned, when there was a question about reliable grounding, I ran a 12ga or heavier wire from the battery to engine, firewall, dash and fenders, independent of all factory grounds. It's overkill, but I've never had a ground problem either!
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
SOURCE: ground wiring
you have many grounded devices in your engine. the main ones are probably the battery ground and the alternator ground. Look at your battery, there is a Positive side (Red/Power) and there is a Negative side(Black/Ground). There is a short wire that runs from the Neg side to the wall of your engine area, it has a ring connected to a bolt. thats the ground wire. there is a similar wire on the neg side of your alternator which should be easy to find if you know what to look for.
Posted on Aug 10, 2009
Battery cable, negative cable, RH side of engine compartment to the RH frame rail
Left side of the radiator support
Top right of the engine, below the ignition control module
Lower LF of the engine, on the automatic transaxle stud, near the starter
On the left frame rail, forward of the left front strut tower
On the left frame rail, right of the left front strut tower, rear of G151
Behind the I/P, on the LH side of the brake pedal bracket
Behind the I/P, in the center
Behind the I/P in the RH side of the brake pedal bracket
At the base of the LH B-pillar
At the base of the RH B-pillar
On the RH side B-pillar
Posted on Aug 11, 2009
If you mean you lose your revers from time to time, you can check the wire harness connection on the passenger side of the transmission around where the Catalytic Converter is at. Inspect for any loose or damaged connections or wire from corrosion or heat from the catalytic converter.
The other cause of no revers is “lo-reverse” clutches are worn out, fluid leak in the reverse apply circuit, or broken sunshell. It is possible to remedy a fluid problem by removing the checkball from its cage in the case in the rear of the trans may help (must remove valvebody), or adding a high-viscosity additive such as Lucas Transmission additive or other seal restorer product. May also have worn boost valve (can replace in the pan).
Put a line pressure gauge (or visit a local trans shop) on the pressure test port and go for a drive to verify proper line pressure. Base pressure at idle in P,N,OD should be around 70psi and around 140psi in R. Max line pressure should be at least 190psi at WOT in 1st or 2nd, 225psi is optimum. If base pressure is low, trans or pump is worn out. If max pressure is low, check EPC solenoid. If reverse is slow to engage, and line pressure does not come up to at least 130psi in reverse, replace the boost valve with a Transgo 0.490" boost valve (easy fix in pan).
Good luck and hope it's just a loose connection that can be cleaned with brake parts cleaner and reattached if no damage is found to the terminals and wire leads. Thank you for using Fixya
Posted on Mar 10, 2010
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