Question about 2007 Ford Bantam 1.3i

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Bleeding brakes 2 working but 2 will not take

Replaced the master cylinder right front working and back left

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1987 F150 Spongy Brake Pedal

CHANGE THE PROPORTIONING VALVE. IT IS BAD. THE PRICE IS 345.00 AT FORD. WHEN YOU DO YOUR BRAKES MAKE SURE THAT YOU OPEN ALL YOUR BLEEDER ON ALL BRAKES

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

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SOURCE: Spongy brakes after bleeding them 2 times. Should I try to bleed the master cylinder or replace it?

Honestly your guess is as good as mine. But I don't think the master cylinder is NOT bad you still have air in the system. Get a big bottle of brake fluid bleed all four sides until you run out of fluid or your brakes work properly. You should divide the bottle's content in four, then use each quantity in each side. You'll be removing air and contaminated fluid from the system. Get a small hose that fits on the bleeders and an appropriate container. I have a good feeling if you do this your brakes will work just fine. I don't know how you are bleeding the brakes. I'll let you know the proper way just in case. This is a two man job, with the wheel off, have someone start the car. Have them pump the brakes a few times to get pressure. 1With the brake pedal UP open the bleeder, 2then have your assistant press the brake pedal all the way down and leave it completely pressed down. 3Close the bleeder valve, once close and only with the valve closed have'm release the brake. Repeat as necessary, bake depressed, open valve first then press brake. DO NOT depress until valve completly closed. Close valve THEN depress. Good Luck!

Posted on May 15, 2009

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SOURCE: I have replaced the front brakes and right front 98 ford tarus.

typically if you pump the brakes and it gets harder by each pump the master cylinder is good.Check all calipers for leaks,and rubber hoses..still no signs of leaks then open the bleeder screws on both front calipers and let them drip for about 15 minutes,and keeping the resivoir full of fluid..tighten the bleeders and pump them up..hopefully they work and all it was is a little air in them still.

Posted on Dec 13, 2009

kel1guy2002
  • 3740 Answers

SOURCE: i replaced a master cylinder on a 2001 taurus and

I take it you have a rebuilt master cylinder. (It can happen to new ones also!) It is quite possible that the 2nd piston seal in the master cylinder is either installed incorrectly or was damaged during installation by who ever assembled it. You can install a PLUG in the front piston outlet hole and try it again. If it is still spongy.... the replacement Master cylinder is bad. (my therory... when in doubt change it out... when it comes to master cylinders)

Take the cylinder back and get another one. (warranty!!!) I have had this happen a few times over the years. Just one of those misfortunes of the task.

Thanks for using FixYa.

Kelly


Posted on Mar 07, 2010

steve_e_uk
  • 1675 Answers

SOURCE: what is the bleeding sequence when replacing a

hi the sequence is start at the rear furthest away from the master cylinder then the next farthest and work your way till the last one , the closest one, hope this helps

Posted on Jun 22, 2010

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1997 mercury sable gs 3.0l replaced master brake, still having brake pedal feeling spongy and slowly traveling down. i bench bled master brake and bled brake right rear left rear right then front.


If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.

For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.

Oct 09, 2016 | 1997 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

Master cylinder


unbolt the brake lines that join at the side of the master then the 2 bolts going to the firewall between the brake booster and master then pull it out easy as that but to put it back the same method except to bleed the master first to take out the air before installing then bleed all the brakes after installed start from the back to front with the bleeder the farthest from master cyl ex: right rear 1 left rear 2 right front 3 left front 4

Apr 04, 2014 | 2002 Kia Optima

1 Answer

Still cant get a brake pedal.. been bleeding the lines but not getting much out of them. replaced master cylinder, still no pedal. has all new lines also


you may have to run the motor as you bleed the brakes so the abs hydraulic unit can purge any air that might be caught within the unit itself.did you bench bleed the master cylinder before installing it on the car.this can save time and reduce the possible chance of air entering the system.make sure you don`t allow the master cylinder to run low on brake fluid.i also assume that you are bleeding the brakes properly.Left front brake works with Right rear brake and Right front brake works with Left rear brake.this is how the brakes should be bleed.

Mar 15, 2011 | 1997 Buick LeSabre

3 Answers

I just replaced my master cylinder on my 1994 ford thunderbird LX with a 4.6L V8. But my brake pedal is still going down to the floor board. What could be the cause of that?


you've bled the lines from back to front, and bled the master cylinder/ It sounds like air in the lines, so you should be able to get streams of fluid with no air at all bleeder screws-start from the furthest away from the master cylinder, to the closest, then do the master cylinder. If that doesn't work, you must have a broken line or a leaking caliper or wheel cylinder.

Jan 04, 2011 | Ford Thunderbird Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
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Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

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Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

I have a 1997 chevy cavalier. I replaced wheel cylinders, brake lines, front calibers master cylinder and booster. When I bleed the brakes I only get brake fluid from the front bleeder on the ABS system. I...


sometimes if you leave the bleeder screw open it will gravity bleed the cylinder.Make sure master cyl is full and do one wheel at a time.I have seen this work, I have done it.

Nov 16, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

Brake problem spongy brake pedal pedal goes down replaced front pads and master cylinder and wheel cylinder and bleed lines


try bleeding them more,start with the right rear,then left rear,then right front ,then left front, always bleed the brake that is furthest from the master cylinder, sometimes you have to bleed them several times until you get a steady stream of brake fluid.

Jul 29, 2010 | 1995 GMC Suburban

1 Answer

I replaced the master cylinder on my car e now i


ok sometimes a cylinder can be turned try this open bleeder cap on front left side then slam on the brake pedal as hard and fast as you can this will sometimes turn it back the right way. if brake fuild comes fling out it worked. when you bleed then use a hose to go on the end of the cap and the other end in a bottle of brake fuild so it cant get air back in the line. good luck

May 05, 2010 | 1996 Geo Prizm

3 Answers

I replaced a master cylinder on a 2001 taurus and bench bled the master cylinder before putting it on the car. then bled the 2 lines at the master cylinder and i am getting air out of the front line on...


try disconnecting the front line, have someone else then step on the brake pedal and hold it down while you re-install the line. If that doesn't do it, you probably did get a defective master cylinder.

Mar 07, 2010 | 2001 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

SOFT BRAKE PEDAL ON MY DAEWOO


MAKE SURE THE ARE NO OTHER LEAKS.IF U DID NOT BENCH BLEED THE MASTER CYLINDER BEFORE U PUT IT ON U PROBLEBLY HAVE AIR IN THE SYSTEM.BLEED THE MASTER CYLINDER AT THE LINES THAT COME OFF OF IT.THEN U NEED TO BLEED THE REAT OF THE BRAKES IN THIS ORDER.RIGHT REAR,LEFT FRONT,LEFT REAR.RIGHT FRONT.WHEN BLEEDING THE BRAKES WAIT 15 SECONDS BETWEEN PUMPS OF THE BRAKE PEDAL.IF U GO TO FAST U CAN DAMAGE THE MASTER CYLINDER.GOOD LUCK

May 01, 2009 | Daewoo Leganza Cars & Trucks

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