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Replacing front wheel bearing on a Toyota auris

Front bearing

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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CMV9
  • 594 Answers

SOURCE: replacing a front wheel bearing

here is a step by step instructions on how to replace your bearing. please copy and paste the link into your browser for an image.

please do not forget to rate and comment about your experience with fixya today.

Removal & Installation

  1. Apply the brakes and hold in place.
  2. Raise the vehicle.
  3. Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
  4. Remove the cotter pin, lock nut and spring washer from the hub nut.
  5. While the brakes are applied, loosen and remove the hub nut on the end of the driveshaft.
  6. Release the brakes.
  7. Remove the front disc brake caliper and adapter as an assembly, and the brake rotor from the steering knuckle.
  8. Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle. To do this, hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while loosening and removing the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench.
  9. Remove the tie rod end from the steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB991113.
  10. Remove the tie rod heat shield.
  11. Remove the nut and pinch bolt clamping the ball joint stud to the steering knuckle.

    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during removal. Hold the bolts stationary in the steering knuckles while removing the nuts, then tap the bolts out using a pin punch.
  12. Remove the two bolts attaching the strut to the steering knuckle.

    NOTE Use caution when separating the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle, so the ball joint seal does not get cut.
  13. Separate the ball joint stud from the steering knuckle by prying down on lower control arm and up against the ball joint boss on the steering knuckle.

    NOTE Do not allow the driveshaft to hang by the inner C/V joint; it must be supported to keep the joint from separating during this operation.
  14. Pull the steering knuckle off the driveshaft outer C/V joint splines and remove the steering knuckle.

    NOTE The cartridge type front wheel bearing used on this vehicle is not transferable to the replacement steering knuckle. If the replacement steering knuckle does not come with a wheel bearing, a new bearing must be installed in the steering knuckle. Installation of the new wheel bearing and hub must be done before installing the steering knuckle on the vehicle.
  15. If the wheel bearing and hub need removal. Do not reuse the wheel bearing.
    http://www.chiltonlibrary.com/content/images/32050/images/32050_ptcr_g0035.gif The separation of the ball joint and the knuckle
To install:
  1. Slide the hub of the steering knuckle onto the splines on the driveshaft C/V joint.
  2. Install the steering knuckle onto the ball joint stud aligning the bolt hole in the knuckle boss with the notch formed in the side of the ball joint stud.
  3. Install a new ball joint stud pinch bolt and nut. Tighten the nut to a torque of 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).

    CAUTION The strut assembly-to-steering knuckle attaching bolts are serrated and must not be turned during installation. Install the nuts while holding the bolts stationary in the steering knuckle.
  4. Position the lower end of the strut assembly in line with the upper end of the steering knuckle and align the mounting holes . Install the two attaching bolts. The bolts should be installed with so that the nuts face towards the front of the vehicle once installed. Install the nuts. Holding the bolts in place tighten the nuts to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (53 Nm) plus an additional 90° turn after the specified torque is met.
  5. Place the tie rod heat shield on the steering knuckle arm so that the shield is positioned straight away from the steering gear and tie rod end once installed. Align the hole in the shield with the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Install the outer tie rod ball stud into the hole in the steering knuckle arm. Start the tie rod attaching nut onto the stud. Hold the tie rod end stud with a wrench while tightening the nut with a standard wrench or crowfoot wrench. To fully tighten the nut to specifications, use a crowfoot wrench on a torque wrench to turn the nut, and a wrench on the stud.
  6. Tighten the nut to a torque of 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm). Install the brake rotor, disc brake caliper and adapter.
  7. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the driveshaft outer C/V joint. Install the hub nut in the end of the driveshaft and snug it.
  8. Have a helper apply the brakes. With vehicle brakes applied to keep brake rotor and hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm)
  9. Install the spring washer, lock nut and cotter pin on the hub nut. Wrap the cotter pin ends tightly around the lock nut.
  10. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Install the wheel mounting nuts and tighten them to a torque of 100 ft. lbs. (135 Nm).
  11. Lower the vehicle.
  12. Set the front toe on the vehicle to required specification.

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

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  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: Replacing front wheel bearing

The brake rotor needs to be removed, drive shaft nut in center of hub then 3 bolts hold the hub assembly to spindle from back side. if it has abs unplug it then some work will need to be done with a hammer and chisel to work the bearing out of spindle and axle shaft from bearing

Posted on Oct 16, 2008

blueextc3221
  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: replacing front wheel bearing

  1. Loosen the wheel nuts and the center axle nut.
  2. Raise the vehicle and safely support it.
  3. Remove the wheel. Remove the ABS speed sensor if so equipped.
  4. Unclamp the brake hose from the shock absorber, but do not disconnect the line.
  5. Remove the brake caliper and hang it out of the way on a piece of stiff wire. Do not disconnect the brake line; do not allow the caliper to hang by the hose.
  6. Remove the brake disc.
  7. Place a dial indicator near the center of the axle hub, and check the backlash in the bearing shaft direction. Maximum is 0.0020 inch (0.05mm). If the backlash exceeds the maximum, replace the bearing.
    1. Usiung a dial; indicator, check the deviation at the surface of the axle hub outside the hub bolt. Maximum is 0.0028 inch (0.07mm). If the deviation exceeds the maximum, replace the axle hub.
    2. Install the disc and caliper. Tighten to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
  8. Remove the cotter pin and install the wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  9. Remove the lock nut cap. While depressing the brake pedal, remove the center axle nut.
  10. Raise and support the vehicle again and remove the wheel, caliper and disc.
  11. Loosen the 2 nuts on the lower side of the shock absorber. Do not remove the 2 nuts and bolts.
  12. Remove the cotter pin and nut from the tie rod end.
  13. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle using a joint separator or equivalent.
  14. Remove the bolt and 2 nuts holding the bottom of the ball joint to the control arm and separate the arm from the knuckle.
  15. Remove the 2 nuts from the steering knuckle. Place a protective cover or shield over the CV boot on the driveshaft.
  16. Using a plastic mallet, tap the driveshaft free of the hub assembly.
  17. Remove the bolts and remove the axle hub assembly.
    1. Clamp the knuckle in a vise with protected jaws.
    2. Remove the dust deflector. Loosen the nut holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Use a ball joint separator tool or equivalent to loosen and remove the joint
    3. Use a slide hammer/extractor to remove the outer oil seal.
    4. Remove the snapring.
    5. Using a hub puller and pilot tools or equivalents, pull the axle hub from the knuckle.
    6. Remove the brake splash shield (3 bolts).
    7. Use a split plate bearing remover, puller pilot and a shop press, remove the inner bearing race from the hub.
    8. Remove the inner oil seal with the same tools used to remove the outer seal.

    To install:
    1. Place the inner race in the bearing. Support the knuckle and use an axle hub remover with a plastic mallet to drive out the bearing.
    2. Clean and inspect all parts but do not wash or clean the wheel bearing; it cannot be repacked. If the bearing is damaged or noisy, it must be replaced.
    3. Press a new bearing race into the steering knuckle using a bearing driver of the correct size.
    4. Place a new bearing inner race on the hub bearing.
    5. Insert the side lip of a new oil seal into the seal installer and drive the oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    6. Apply multi-purpose grease to the oil seal lip.
    7. Apply sealer to the brake splash shield and install the shield.
    8. Use a hub installer to press the hub into the steering knuckle.
    9. Install a new snapring into the hub.
    10. Using a seal installer of the correct size, install a new outer oil seal into the steering knuckle.
    11. Apply multi-purpose grease to the seal surfaces which will contact the driveshaft.
    12. Support the knuckle and drive in a new dust deflector.
    13. Install the ball joint into the knuckle and tighten the nut to 105 ft. lbs. (142). Install NEW cotter pin.
    14. Temporarily install the hub assembly to the lower control arm and fit the driveaxle into the hub.
    15. Install the knuckle to strut bolts, then attach the tie rod end to the knuckle.
    16. Tighten the strut bracket nuts to 203 ft. lbs. (275 Nm) and tighten the tie rod end nut to 36 ft. lbs. (49 Nm). Install the NEW cotter pin.
    17. Connect the ball joint to the lower control arm and tighten the nuts to 105 ft. lbs. (142 Nm).
    18. Install the brake disc.
    19. Attach the brake caliper to the knuckle and tighten the bolts to 65 ft. lbs. (88 Nm).
    20. Install the center nut and washer on the drive axle.
    21. Install the ABS speed sensor if so equipped. Install the wheel
    22. Lower the car to the ground.
    23. Tighten the wheel nuts to 76 ft. lbs. (103 Nm). Tighten the hub nut while depressing the brake pedal to 137 ft. lbs. (186 Nm) on 1988-91 models and 152 ft. lbs. (206 Nm) on 1992-97 models. Install the cap and cotter pin.
    24. Remove the protective cover from the CV boot. Check front wheel alignment

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

Hentie
  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: after replacing the left front wheel bearing on a 2003 ford focus, the abs and traction warning light stay on

The bearings on the wheels has to be installed one way only, the rotor ring is built into the bearing and if installed the wrong way round the sensor cant pick up the wheel speed causing the ligt to be switched on in the cluster. The diagnostic equipment should pick this up as a fault once the car has been driven, it will see the sensor when you do the diagnostic if the car is standing still but once the car is moving and no signal is send from that wheel it would register a fault into the memory of the PCM that you would be able to retrieve later.
There is a way for you to test the sensor yourself by using a multimeter set on volts, you jack the vehicle up at that wheel, install a vehicle stand to support the vehicle to be safe, disconect the wheel speed sensor and probe the two wires into the sensor, spin the wheel by hand and a small amount of current will be produced meaning the the sensor is working and the wheel bearing is installed the correct way, you can also do a continuaty test on the sensor by switching the multimeter onto ohms, but be very carefull, if this sensor has three wires you cant do the continuaty test because of the integrated circuit in the sensor, the three wire sensors opperate on a voltage from 5Volt and it would be destroyed by the multimeter opperating on 9Volt.
If the continuaty test passes and the bearing is installed the correct way, the most comon fault would be a break in the wiring leading to the PCM
Hope this will be helpfull.

Posted on May 04, 2009

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: wheel bearing replacement left front

Diagnosing the bearings can be tricky depending on severity of wear. Typically - drone noise at highway speeds, squeeling, clicking or grinding noises at low speeds that reduce during braking, or pull off the wheel and brake assembly and check the bearing for slack or smoothness of rotation by hand. While doing this, check the brake assembly thoroughly - generally a more likely culprit of wheel noise.

Wheel bearing replacement is not for the novice backyard mech. - you will need pullers, press, etc. If you can get a rebuilt assembly - much easier.

Posted on May 08, 2009

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