Question about 1990 Jeep Comanche
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Go to any scrapyard and you can get the entire setup for next to nothing...and you can see how it's hooked up!!!
Posted on Jul 07, 2009
caster is adjusted at the rear of the lower control arms. Camber is fixed and cannot be adjusted by normal means (though special off-set ball joints are available to do that) Toe in is adjusted by turning the sleeves in or out on the tie rod ends. None of this should be done at home though crude adjustments can be made in order to get the front end reasonably straight. Adjustments are made on an alignment machine that allows precise adjustments to all you mentioned as well as front/rear tracking.
Posted on Mar 12, 2010
SOURCE: 1990 Jeep wrangler no start
Are you check fault codes there? First check, no crank or no start condition is an easy thing to diagnose. Beyond the battery
stuff, you need to know if power is at the starter solenoid, and being
switched to the starter motor with the key in the crank position. Rrequires two people and a test light. If power goes to the starter
motor, and no crank, then starter is bad. If no power there, then there's
issues with wiring, fuses, ignition switch, clutch switch and so on.
Remember the basics for no start issues. An engine needs three things to run normal:
At some point, your not getting one of those three things. First, isolate the problem. Will it crank over? If not, probably battery or connections, or locked up starter, etc...
It will crank but not start - very common. Crank it over for a few seconds and pull one spark plug, is it wet with gas? If no, then your not getting fuel. If yes, your not getting spark. Test for spark with the plug out, if no spark, focus on the electrical systems. If there is spark, focus on the fuel system. This narrows your troubleshooting by 50% to not waist time.
Based on spark or no spark, you should be able to continue troubleshooting each system. For no spark, check coil, check wires, check ignition, check grounds, test each component, check for wore wires sparking on the block before it hits the plug, change plugs, change distributor cap and rotor, etc... Somewhere, there will be a breakdown in the system.
For no fuel, check your fuel pump (does it growl when you hit the key to on?), fuel filters, power to the injectors, fuel lines, etc...
In the rare case that you do have spark, and you still have a wet spark plug, there is most likely water in the fuel system or your plugs are fouled and should be replaced.
Just the basics I can think of off the top of my head... Most of the no start issues I encounter are either an old battery that will not keep a charge anymore (usually older than five years) or loose cables. Loose cables and dirty terminal connections make up about 90% of the problems with starting. ALWAYS check those first, pull 'em off the battery and clean with sandpaper or a wire brush to ruff 'em up really good. Same inside the terminal connector then lock 'em down.
You need to do a little investigating. Run it for a while to get the engine warmed up, then shut it off somewhere that you have some test equipment and help available. Make sure it won't start, then spray a little starting fluid into the air intake while a helpe tries to start the engine. If it starts briefly you know that there is a problem with fuel delivery and you can start checking out the filter, fuel pump, relays and electrical circuits that feed the fuel pump. Remember that even NEW fuel pumpscan have a problem so don't rule out that one.
If it WON'T start with the help of starting fluid, pull a sparkplug wire and connect it to a spare sparkplug. Set the spare sparkplug with the wire attached on a metal part of the engine and have your helper try to start it again. If you don't have a nice, strong spark, you know there is a problem in the ignition somewhere. If there isn't a spark, check the coil input. Connect one end of a volt meter to ground and the other end to the coil input. One side of the coil input should have constant voltage, the other side should be intermittent while the engine is cranked by your helper. If you're getting voltage TO the coil and intermittent voltage on the other side, but no spark, you probably have a bad coil that fails when it gets hot.
Posted on May 29, 2010
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