INSTALLED ALL NEW RUBBER SEALS , INLET, FUEL GAUGE SENDER, AND THE TWO CIRCULATORY SEALS AT THE TOP OF GAS TANK, AND STILL WON'T PASS INSPECTION. IT WAS LEAKING FROM THE TOP OF TANK , NOW ITS DRY BUT STILL NOT PASSING 1 LB. PRESSURE TEST ON GAS CAP.
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sorry but it looks like you will be in that tank again. pull the pump out and plug it into the car wiring outside the tank and move the float up and wait 60 seconds. if it doesn't move the gauge, replace the sender (with a new one or maybe with the old one, if you still have it) and test it before you install it
it is inside the gas tank, part of the sender unit. you have to take the tank out of the car in order to replace it. while it is out of the car do yourself a favor and replace the fuel pump too so you do not have duplicate labor when the pump goes out next year. before you go nuts, pull the liner or carpeting out of the trunk and make sure your car's trunk does not have a service access to the gas tank. generally gas tanks are mounted under the trunk.
bleed any pressure off at the engine. drain and lower the gas tank, remove the pump install new pump. replace all hoses with new while you are in there and might do the gas gauge sensor too and any external filter nearby. reinstall tank, put in gas, turn on ignition and bleed any air out. go.
Sounds like you have a broken tank or tank connection. The sending unit ( hanger ) has the gas pump and the gauge sender in the one unit htatgoes into the top of thetank. the tank has to be lowered to see. theirs three lines connected with snap on fuel connecters that take a line toolto release them. some methinol fuels will eat the seals out of these and rot the float for the fuel sender. If the tank has been hit hard from the bottom theirs a baffle that can come adrift and run into the hanger breaking the lines as they go though the top of the tank making a leak course you coulda run over something that punctureed and bent the tank.
If not already done, disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands.
Safely drain and remove the fuel tank assembly as outlined later in this section.
Detach the quick-connects from the fuel sender assembly and remove the fuel lines.
Using tool J 35731, or an equivalent spanner wrench, remove the fuel sender lockring.
Lift the sender assembly carefully out of the fuel tank.
Remove the sender O-ring from the top of the sender and discard.
Do NOT run the fuel pump unless it is submerged in fuel. Running the pump dry will cause serious damage to the fuel pump and may cause the pump to explode due to the oxygen in the air.
Note the position of the fuel pump strainer on the fuel pump and, while supporting the pump assembly in one hand, twist the strainer off the pump and discard the strainer.
Detach the fuel pump electrical connector.
Remove the clamp from the fuel line at the top of the pump.
Hold the fuel sender upside down on a work bench and pull the fuel pump out of the lower mounting bracket. Once the pump is clear of the lower mounting bracket, tilt the pump outward and disconnect the pump from the sender assembly.
Replace any attaching hoses or rubber sound insulators that show signs of deterioration.
Install the rubber bumper and insulator on the fuel pump.
Hold the fuel sender upside down and install the fuel pump between the fuel pulse dampener and mounting bracket.
Attach the fuel pump electrical connector.
Install the retaining clamp on the fuel line.
Install a new fuel pump strainer on the outer edge of the ferrule until fully seated. The strainer must be facing the same direction as it was before removal.
Position a new O-ring on the top of the fuel tank and install the sender assembly.
Install the lockring using J-35731, or an equivalent spanner wrench.
Install the fuel tank as outlined later in this section.
Refill the gas tank.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position to pressurize the fuel system and check for leaks.
you'r EVAP system is not purging the system . I suspect it is your charcoal canister located in the left side of the engine compartment located near the master cylinder its a piece of cake to change it just slides up after you diconect the lines .