Question about Cars & Trucks
Had key on, used good test light, wont get power out of the fuse box where the back up fuse goes in
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I have a 92 Suburban with the same issue (been going on for about a year) AC will turn on when hit a bump in the road... and off with the same type of bump...
I had researched just about everything including replacing the RELAY behind the glove box...
this still didn't help...
finally after replacing most the hardware... I started tracing the wires and found that there is a plug under the glove box there there is a HOT (red) wire that was overheating due to a bad connection and it was melting...
here is where my plug is...
- open the glove box & remove the door
- remove the screws on sides of glove box and remove the glove box it's self...
(you should now see many wires and things)
- now this is where I replaced the relay... I think it was the middle one... if you replace it you will want to refer to a manual or call a dealership to make sure you replace the right one... (it was like $24 or $27)... here is a link to what the relay looks like...
-then if you follow the RED wire out of that relay.... about 3 feet of wire or so.... you will find a connector... with 5 Wires (Mine are colored - Red, Orange, Lime, Black and Green)
** this is the connector that seems to be my problem
Either Replace the Connectors or the (cheap way to fix it is remove the connector and clamp and/or sodier each of the 5 pairs of wires together without the plug... )
I am currently waiting for a new plug from my local dealer but I have bypassed the connector and manually connected the wires until the dealer gets the connector get it...
Hopefully that helps...
Posted on Jan 25, 2009
Diagram should be on the inside of the fuse box or relay cluster lid/cover. If Test light has 1 wire and a sharp tip? Yes, but only if you push the horn button too ;-)
My guess is that the horn lost its ground, but you can check this with the light. The horn only beeps when both GROUND and Pos 12v are present. The horn button gives the relay 12v to close, and the relay gives the horn 12v to operate. The ground is always connected.
Connect tester clipwire to 12v source (battery, headlight (has to be on) and touch its tip to metal of car. Does it light? Good. the tester is working and the 12v is a good source.
Touch one of the 2 horn connection or wires (poke it thru the plastic - why tip is sharp). Does it light? Touch the other, does it?
If both light, (1 will be brighter) we can assume the horn coil is good and it is getting a good ground and I was wrong (it happens... but not often). The side that is BRIGHTER is the ground wire side.
Now have someone mash the horn button. Do you hear a tiny click? That is the horn relay. If not, look for the horn relay fuse and replace it. If you DID hear the click, the relay coil is good and is trying to switch 12v to drive the horn.
Now is time to locate and replace the horn fuse or the relay may have bad contacts. Look at the other relay part numbers in the cluster and see if there is a match for the horn one. Swap it out and try the horn.
Hope this all helps. To 'test' the horn, touch the dim side again anf listen for a scratching sound. That is the 12v going thru the tiny bulb in the tester (a resistance) and trying to drive the horn.
Posted on Mar 27, 2009
Check the brake light switch under the dash attached to the brake peadal arm. It is wher the break booster push rod attaches. Sometimes that switch works loose.
Posted on May 21, 2009
I have the same problem with my 99 accord. For the past few years, I have been able to change out the fuse in the fuse box on the passenger side under the hood of the car up near the windshield. There is a map of the fuses on the top of the box. Hope this helps!
Posted on Jun 10, 2009
Did you find out a solution to your problem? I have a 1996 trooper that is showing most of the same symptoms that you have. I'm curious as to your fix. Was it simply a bad ground?
Posted on Apr 26, 2010
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