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2001 chevy van ignition lock removal

Remove and replace ignition lock

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 341 Answers

SOURCE: POWER BRAKE BOOSTER REMOVAL,HELP!

remove master cly. from booster. then under dash remove clip & pin from brake pedal . pull carpet down remove 4 nuts . pull off booster..

Posted on Oct 21, 2008

Shouldibuyit
  • 44 Answers

SOURCE: replace heater core 1994 chevy g20 conversion van

Here a are the instuctions to remove it. I did not know if you have A/C or not so I included both for you.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Without Air Conditioning
ALL MODELS
See Figure 1

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the coolant recovery bottle.
  3. Place a pan under the van and disconnect the heater intake and outlet hoses. Quickly remove and plug the hoses and support them in an upright position. Drain the coolant from the heater core into the pan.
CAUTION When draining engine coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted to ethylene glycol antifreeze and could drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or is several years old.
  1. Remove the heater distributor duct-to-case attaching screws and the duct-to-engine cover screw. Remove the duct.
  2. Remove the engine cover.
  3. Remove all the instrument panel attaching screws.
  4. Carefully lower the steering column. Raise and support the right side of the instrument panel. Refer to for further details.
  5. Remove the defroster duct-to-case attaching screws and the two screws attaching the distributor to the heater case.
  6. Disconnect the temperature door cable. Carefully fold the cable back and out of the way.
  7. Remove the three nuts from the engine compartment side of the distributor case and the screw from the passenger compartment side.
  8. Remove the heater case and core assembly.
  9. Remove the core retaining straps and remove the core.
To install:
  1. Install the core.
  2. Install the core retaining straps.
  3. Install the heater case and core assembly.
  4. Fasten the three nuts on the engine compartment side of the distributor case and the screw on the passenger compartment side.
  5. Connect the temperature door cable.
  6. Install the defroster duct-to-case attaching screws and the two screws attaching the distributor to the heater case.
  7. Install the steering column.
  8. Fasten all the instrument panel attaching screws.
  9. Install the engine cover.
  10. Install the duct. Install the heater distributor duct-to-case attaching screws and the duct-to-engine cover screw.
  11. Connect the heater intake and outlet hoses.
  12. Fill the cooling system.
  13. Install the coolant recovery bottle.
  14. Connect the negative battery cable.
1990-95 MODELS With A/C

  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
  2. Remove the engine cover.
  3. Remove the steering column-to-instrument panel bolts. Lower the column carefully.
  4. Remove the upper and lower instrument panel attaching screws. Remove the radio support bracket screw.
  5. Raise and support the right side of the instrument panel.
  6. Remove the lower right instrument panel bracket.
  7. Remove the vacuum actuator from the kick panel.
  8. Disconnect the temperature cable and vacuum hoses at the case. Remove the heater distributor duct from over the engine hump.
  9. Remove the two defroster duct-to-firewall attaching screws below the windshield.
  10. Under the hood, disconnect and plug the heater hoses at the firewall.
  11. Remove the three nuts and one screw (inside) holding the heater case to the firewall.
  12. Remove the case from the van. Remove the gasket for access to the screws holding the case together. Remove the temperature cable support bracket. Remove the screws and separate the case. Remove the heater core.
To install:
  1. Install the heater core.
  2. Assemble the case and fasten the screws.
  3. Install the temperature cable support bracket.
  4. Position the gasket, then install the case in the van.
  5. Fasten the three nuts and one screw (inside) holding the heater case to the firewall.
  6. Connect and plug the heater hoses at the firewall.
  7. Fasten the two defroster duct-to-firewall attaching screws below the windshield.
  8. Install the heater distributor duct.
  9. Connect the temperature cable and vacuum hoses at the case.
  10. Install the vacuum actuator at the kick panel.
  11. Install the lower right instrument panel bracket.
  12. Fasten the radio support bracket screw.
  13. Fasten the upper and lower instrument panel attaching screws.
  14. Fasten the steering column-to-instrument panel bolts.
  15. Install the engine cover.
  16. Connect the battery ground cable.
  17. Refill the cooling system as necessary.

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

emissionwiz
  • 75108 Answers

SOURCE: remove ignition switch

U must dis-arm the airbag 1st, disconnect the battery for 30 minutes before you begin work, then remove the airbag, the retaining screws are at the back of the steering wheel down in holes I believe, after that remove the safety clip at the top of the steering wheel threads, then the steering wheel nut, you will need a steering wheel puller to remove the steering wheel, they are about $10 from any parts store, after the wheel is removed remove the airbag clock-spring rotating contact, then remove the turn signal switch, there will be 3 screws holding the turn signal switch in, remove them, then remove the lower trim under the dash and crawl under and and disconnect the large flat connector at the bottom of column, this will allow u to pull the turn signal switch up and out of the way, don't force anything be patient, under the turn signal switch on the right of the area above the ignition lock cylinder u will see a black headed screw, it may be a tamper proof torx/star screw head or a phillips, remove it, then turn the ignition to the on position and slide the ignition switch out, reverse it all and put it back together. take your time, don't rush, good luck, contact me with any further questions.

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

AUTODOC01
  • 216 Answers

SOURCE: 1993 chevy van g20 water pump replacement

you will need some fairly long wrenchs 15mm-16mm to get leverage on the spring loaded serp tesiner put a wrench on the pulley near the belt ? also loosen the 4 fan bolts on the water pump before you remove the belt ? ther are 7 fan shroud bolts you can split the fan shroud ? 2 bolts on the lower right and 2 on the left ? after you do this then you should be down to pulling off the fan and pulley just slides off ? then remove the 4 waterpump mounting boltss, scrape the old gaskets ? when this is done all you have left is to installthe fan studs from the old pump? you do this by screwing down 2 nuts on the stud then with 2 wrenchs lock the nuts together ? then unscrew the bottom nut ? keep doing that till all 4 are replaced? install the gaskets and add some silicone and reverse the process ? hope this helps repost thumbs up !!

Posted on Aug 29, 2009

  • 400 Answers

SOURCE: replacing ignition switch in 2001 chevy silverado

Not the igniton switch, its the ingition cylinder and or the housing. The switch is not part of what you are really turning. It's connected to it via gears. The common problem is the key gets worn out and the tumblers wear also. Eventualy they do not line up right and will not make the "bar" drop in the cylinder to allow it to turn from the off positon. If you have the title in your name and the key has never been rekeyed or the code has been changed you can go down to a dealership with all of the info for the truck and they can cut you a key from the vin number. You can try that first before you put a cylinder and housing in it.

Posted on Oct 21, 2009

Testimonial: "I really appreciate this info it makes sense and hopefully this solves the problem. it gets really annoying not being able to start the truci"

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Removing ignition switch


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2001 chevy 2500 ignition key takes some time getting to turn in the ignition. The key seems to be very warn from years of use how hard is it to replace the ignition and keys.


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If your key is 'twisted'. in the ignition-lock, I am sorry you won't have no choice but to remove the ignition-lock and dismantling it to free the stuck key.

Before removing the ignition-lock, try spraying a lubricant (WD-40) in the lock, and see it that frees the key.

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The ignition lock cylinder has to be what I guess you would call timed, if they get this it wrong then the key will do things like what is happening to you, it is an adjustment that will require they remove and reset the position of the lock cylinder.
BOTTOM LINE, TAKE IT BACK.

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