Question about Land Rover Freelander

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I am replacing the slave cylinder on a freelander td4

To take out the clutch housing do i need to remove the rear prop and offside drive shaft

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 22 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 freelander td4 english model

obd one , but some code readers will not read your vehicle , were are you in country i might be able to recomend some were that can help ?

Posted on Oct 23, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: replaced slave cylinder 2004 ford ranger 4x4 still no pedal

I had the same problem with my 1995 1500 p.u.. Assuming your clutch slave cylinder is the concentric style. If not disregard. I hate that set up. what the hell was wrong with the old outside of the bell housing slave/ mechanical style fork and throw out bearing bla bla? Its because ford as well of the rest of the lovely auto makers decided long ago to make them as hard as hell to repair on you own. Ive been told theres a spsecial tool just for this bleeding task. Pobably. They make those tools to sell to us so they can further profit from us poor suckers.Also I wonder on your model if its concentric, does it have the difficult sized bleeder valve as mine did? or have they gotten a little more user friendly? doubt it. In my case as this style is a closed system I followed the bleeding intructions to a tee. That did get alot more clutch action for me, after 15 attempts.However I do believe the problem after looking and further inspection under the dash? look up under the dash and inspect your pedal rack and frame. I found mine was cracked and the cause of poor aliegnment. check for that rite away. I located another rack but before I got around to replacing it, the tranny blew, and the trucks sitting on my dads property. Its still a danmed good truck and one of these days I will get on it again. Anyway up untill the tranny blew I was never able to get more than half the distance from the pedal and besides the rack problem I would love to know the bleeding anser, that is if Im off target. Going to be up against it again when I replace that transmission. Hope this helps a little. Food for thought maybe? If you find out something more helpful post it so I will know too.

Posted on Dec 22, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: PEUGEOT 406 LX DT 1998 2088 CC CLUTCH SLAVE CYLINDER

I understand these cars have a sealed clutch system. When they fail you replace the whole kit master,hydrolic pipe and slave (comes in one piece). Search on ebay maybe £45 or so.

Posted on Feb 26, 2009

  • 383 Answers

SOURCE: clutch slave cylinder

Yes, it is located on the passenger's side of the car at the front lower side of the transmission.
You will need the following tools: 12mm and 14mm socket. The slave cylinder could be bolted to the bell housing using either size bolt head.
A 14mm and 17mm open end wrench. The hose to the slave cylinder could be found with either size.
a 10mm combination wrench for the bleeder screw. A small set of vice grip pliers.
Removal and installation instructions for the slave cylinder:
1.Take the small set of vice grip pliers and adjust them to where they just barely close down on the slave cylinder hose. Just enough to pinch off the flow of fluid but not damage the hose.
2. Using the 14mm or 17mm open ended wrench, break the hose loose from the slave cylinder, turning it in a counter clockwise direction. Make sure you have the wrench squarely on the fitting to avoid rounding it off.
3. using either the 12 or 14mm socket, remove the two bolts which hold the slave cylinder to the bell housing.
4. At this point with the slave cylinder lose, have the replacement part near by, make sure you have the copper crush ring with it.
5. Holding the hose, rotate the slave cylinder counter clockwise, spinning it off the hose.
The replacement part should have a small metal rod and rubber cover which retains it to the slave cylinder. Make sure to remove the old copper crush ring and put the new one on the end of the hose. If the part did not come with one, reuse the old one. Spin the new part on the hose and place it back on the bell housing, making sure that the rod fits into the steel linkage which projects out from inside the transmission. There is a shallow hole which the rod should fit in. Holding the part in place, don't try to tighten the hose yet, screw both bolts in by hand and tighten them. Make sure you have them both in before you go tightening anything.
6. Tighten the hose, a good snug pull is all that is needed. you don't have to crank down on the line.
Now you can remove the pliers.
7. At this point you will need the assistance of another person. Have them sit in the car, you top off the clutch master cylinder (the one which has just one resevoir) with DOT 3 brake fluid. See if you can find a small container to catch the fluid in, or just use an oil drain pan. With you stationed under the car with the 10mm wrench on the bleeder screw ready to open it up in a counter clockwise direction, have your friend ready to pump the clutch pedal.
READY?
HAVE THEM PUMP THE PEDAL AND TELL THEM TO "HOLD IT" They should keep the pedal on the floor while you open the bleeder screw up.
Some fluid and air may or may not come out the first time you open the bleeder. Close it and tell them to pump the pedal again. They need to pump the pedal at least 5 times and them tell them to "Hold It" again, holding it to the floor. Don't open the bleeder until they have the pedal to the floor.
Open the bleeder and then close it. Repeat the procedure until you see just fluid and no air coming out.. After the first three times you bleed it, check the clutch master fluid level again. Avoid running the reservoir empty other wise you will be bleeding the cluch for quite a while.
Brake fluid will attack paint so if you spill any on the paint, pour water on it and it will neutralize it. DO NOT GET WATER IN YOUR BRAKE FLUID!!!!
If everything goes well, by the fourth or fifth time you have had them pumped the pedal, you will notice the slave cylinder is pushing the release arm and the person in the car should be feeling a normal clutch pedal along with the "pedal free play" being roughly 1/2 " from the top.
I hope I not only answered your question, but have supplied you all the necessary information should you be up to the task of changing it.

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

  • 133 Answers

SOURCE: 1992 Chevy Silverado - Clutch Slave Cylinder broke

JB weld will not work get it welded by a pro with the proper hi frequency welder otherwise you will have to replace the box ,and yes get a new cylinder ,hope you get sorted

Posted on Mar 03, 2010

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1 Answer

Wont go into gear while driving has to be turned off then it will has new clutch


It sounds like the clutch is not disengaging when depressed. What is the year make and model? It most likely has a hydraulic clutch. Many vehicles have the clutch slave cylinder inside the bell housing of the transmission. This means that the fluid line to the slave cylinder was removed to remove the transmission. If a new slave cylinder was installed when the clutch was replaced (this is a good idea to do when servicing a clutch with a bell housing internal slave cylinder) then the system will need to be bled to remove air from the system and allow the clutch disengagement to function properly.

Mar 07, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The Clutch disc and Release Bearing for the TD4-Freelander, were replaced recently. The Pressure Plate was still in a good condition.Gears difficult to engage.Please advise.Tks.John.


Most likely still has air in hydraulic clutch slave system. Many transmisions will have dificulty shifting if clutch doesn't full disengage. If air is in system it won't allow full disengage thus difficulty in shifting even possible grinding gears

Sep 17, 2016 | 2002 Land Rover Freelander

1 Answer

Why do I have to bleed the clutch every week no fluid lose


Air is replacing the fluid, so seeming as if there is no fluid loss. It is escaping someplace not obvious, such as inside the bell housing along the actuator rod.

If you needed a new clutch in the first place, it would be a good investment to put in an overhaul kit on both master and slave cylinder, or, if you find corrosion, replace both.

Sep 02, 2014 | 2002 Land Rover Freelander

1 Answer

Have freelander td4 03 plate, continuous problem with clutch. had new clutch , slave cylinder and master 2 months ago, all fine till a month ago lost pedal completely , had new master fittted problem fixed...


Definitely a hydraulic issue. Iknow you said they were both changed, but its usually the master & slave assembly that go faulty on the Freelander. Both parts come filled with fluid and pre-bled and only require fitting, no bleeding. Check with garage to make sure they did not split / bleed them.

Jun 06, 2011 | 2003 Land Rover Freelander

1 Answer

2002 BMW 325 will not drive in any gear


Hi well this could be a few things, is it auto? or manual? if it is manual then this could be the clutch is warn and needs replacing, or, you have a problem with the hydraulic clutch system ie a leak, or low fluid levels, to check low fluid levels, check the brake fluid reservoir as this also supply's the clutch top up if required, also check the prop shaft under the vehicle make sure the "doughnut" ( its a big rubber ring in the middle of the shaft) has not broken separating the 2 parts of the prop, to also check the clutch master and slave cylinder pump the clutch rapidly and see if it gets harder and then put in gear and see if it will drive , if it does then you might have air in the clutch system maybe a leaking cylinder, to check this, look under the dashboard where the clutch peddle is and see if it is damp on the carpet, this will be a leaking master cylinder and will need to be replaced, for the slave cylinder just check under the vehicle to see if either side of the gearbox is wet, this will be a leaking slave cylinder and will need to be replaced, ok that's for the manual type...for the auto type, you may have a torque converter fault it might be leaking and you have lost the oil in the transmission, there is no dip stick to see if it is low, any automatic transmission fault really should be checked by a BMW garage or main dealer..hope this helps please comment and vote thanks

Jan 14, 2011 | 2001 BMW 325

1 Answer

Need to replace clutch


Wow, your just starting..the good thing its easy. remove the shaft by taking off the UJoint from the rear end. The shaft the slides out from rear of tranny. Then remove cross member for tranny. remove shifter. Remove bolts from bell housing and your good..(PS Change slave cylinder if Manual).

Jun 16, 2009 | 1998 Ford Ranger SuperCab

1 Answer

Changing the clutch in an 87 toyo p/u


  • drive shaft - 4
  • wiith carrier br g-6
  • crossmember2-4 removal from trans
  • clutch slave cylinder -2
  • trans to bell housing -4
  • Shifter- floor screws -4
  • shift stick - Under boot press down and rotate stick retainer cup
  • Safety, ease of removal and damage prevention to engine components: SUPPORT REAR OF ENGINE.
  • clutch pressure plat -6
  • clutch pilot bushing - bronze- split w/small chisel- must replace- tap new bushinG into clean hole - lube with light amout of grease
  • Clutch release brg. replace and properly situate on fork and retainers
  • Note! check clutch disc for proper spline match with trans input shaft.
  • Note, Use clutch pilot tool (Parts store available) to center clutch disc while tightening pressure plate.
  • Check trans fluid level after assemby is complete. Good luck.FORCE NOTHING

May 06, 2009 | 1987 Toyota Pickup

1 Answer

My TD4 clutch has gradually gone soft


HI,YOU COULD TRY BLEEDING,IT (LETTING AIR OUT )IF YOU KNOW HOW TO,BUT YOU HAVE A MASTER AND A SLAVE CYLINDER,WAS THEY BOTH CHANGED?,THANKS

Jan 26, 2009 | 2002 Land Rover Freelander

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