Question about 2005 Ford F-150

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Heater is slow to come up to temperature

I need a diagram to show the water flow through the heater system and the valve that allows water to flow. This is on a 2001 F-150, 5.4 motor.

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The valve that allows water to flow is attached to the temp control switch on the dash. if the heater is slow to warm up, it could be your engine thermostat is stuck open.

Posted on Jan 12, 2009


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How to burp a 2009 Pontiac G6 GT 3..5L V6

Many modern cooling systems are best filled using a vacuum filler - a new fangled tool that sucks all the air and remaining coolant from the cooling and heater system and then allows atmospheric pressure to force coolant into every corner of the system.

The traditional method of bleeding the cooling system is to disconnect the heater hose from the cold or return side where it connects to the engine (engine running at a fast idle, heater switched to hot) and be ready to reconnect as soon as coolant flows.
Other hoses sometimes also need to be bled and sometimes removing the temperature sensor can also help.

The air lock is primarily caused by the traditional thermostat jiggle pin being deleted though sometimes this function is replaced by the degassing system.
In the case of a really stubborn air lock or a recurring air lock it is worth checking for a degassing blockage.

Mar 20, 2018 | Pontiac Cars & Trucks


Heat troubleshooting

<span>There are a few reasons this might happen to your system.<span> </span>A typical system is shown in the diagram below:<span> </span></span><br /><br /><br /><img src="CC87E1A.jpg" /><br /><br />The system requires hot water from the engine to pass through the heater core and the blend (or mix) door positioned for air pushed by the blower motor to pass through the core.<span> </span>If the <a href="/../cars/r6235876-no_heat_fan_blowing_cold_air#">vehicle</a> has no air conditioning, the evaporator is absent from the system.<span> </span>Some designs also incorporate a control valve in the heater hose to stop coolant flow to the heater core when not in use. The blend door position is actuated by a stepper motor or cable.<br />Typical failure modes are as follows:<br /><span><span>1.<span> </span></span></span>Blend door stuck<br /><span><span>2.<span> </span></span></span>Blend door actuator failed motor or stripped gears<br />3. Blend door cable is broke or needs adjustment<br /><span><span>4.<span> </span></span></span>Temperature control switch failed<br /><span><span>5.<span> </span></span></span>Air pockets in engine cooling system<br /><span><span>6.<span> </span></span></span>Clogged heater core<br /><span><span>7.<span> </span></span></span>Heater coolant control valve failed closed<br />8. Thermostat failed open<br /><br /><b>Troubleshooting:</b><br />First, with your engine hot and the heater turned on, feel the heater hoses in the engine compartment as they attach to the heater core at the firewall.<span> </span>If either of the hoses is cold, the problem is likely a lack of adequate coolant flow.<span> </span><br /><br /><b>No or low coolant flow:<span> </span></b><br />Check for the presence of a control valve in one of the heater hoses--trace the hoses all the way to the engine.<span> </span>Not all vehicles have such valves.<span> </span>If you find one, check to see if it is actuating properly.<span> </span>It should receive a signal of some kind from the heater controls and open when the temperature control is turned to heat.<span> </span>If you cannot determine that the valve is opening, try taking one of the clamps off and removing the hose to see inside the valve. A typical vacuum operated heater flow control valve is shown below:<br /><br /><img src="7FA590D.jpg" /> <br /><br />The valve may also be actuated by a solenoid or wire cable. <br />If you have no valve, next check the cooling system for air. If you have a radiator cap, take it off and look inside.<span> </span>If it is not full, fill it with coolant and start the engine.<span> </span>Turn the heater on and let the engine run until it is warm and the thermostat has opened.<span> </span>Continue to fill the radiator or reservoir until the level stops falling.<span> </span>Check for the presence of any bleed ports in the system.<span> </span>Bleed ports may be on the housings that radiator or heater hoses attach to or may be installed in the hoses themselves.<span> </span>A typical Honda application is shown below:<br /><br /><img src="C655B97.jpg" /><br /><br />For stubborn cases, p<span>ark the <a href="/../#">car</a> uphill, take cap off radiator, start <a href="/../cars/r6235876-no_heat_fan_blowing_cold_air#">car</a>, fill radiator, let it warm up until <a href="/../#">thermostat</a> opens, bleed air out, fill to the neck of the radiator and watch for bubbles coming up. Once you have bled the air, if gas continues to come out, you may have a blown head gasket that is forming bubbles that can block coolant from entering the heater. In these cases, the heater may work well at speed but blow cold at idle.</span><br /><br />Clogged core: If the control valve is open and there is no air in the system, your heater core may be clogged.<span> A quick way to check for a clogged core is to turn the blower motor off for a while and then back on. If it produces warm air for only a short time and then cools down, your core is only passing a small amount of coolant. This can also be caused by a bad control valve, if you car has one or possibly by a weak water pump. </span>You can try flushing the core by removing the heater hoses and attaching a garden hose or other source of water pressure to force water through the core.<span> </span>Use an adapter to make a good seal and connect to the lower pipe to backflush the core.<span> </span>If the core will not flush or allow adequate flow, replace the heater core.<br /><br />Thermostat: if your car temperature is running cold and only warms up when idling, the heater will do the same. This is caused by a thermostat that has failed open, allowing too much coolant to flow through the radiator. <span>.</span><br /><br /><b>Blend door not moving to heat position:</b><br />If you have coolant flow through the heater core, the problem is with the blend door.<span> </span>The blend door is almost always actuated from under the dashboard.<span> </span>Many systems use an electric motor to actuate the blend door.<span> </span>Check any heater or A/C fuses before tearing into your system.<span> </span>You may need to remove a partition to see the actuator.<span> </span>The door should be to the right of center under the dash.<span> </span>A typical electric motor actuator design is shown below.<br /><br /><img src="4ED4FC8.jpg" /> <br /><br />The actuator can be on the top front or bottom of the duct.<span> </span>Consult a manual for your vehicle if you cannot locate the actuator.<span> </span>Once you can see the actuator, watch it while you change the temperature setting (key on unless it is cable operated).<span> </span>If the actuator doesn't move or turn, troubleshoot the reason.<span> </span>Systems such as the one in the above picture typically fail in the shaft attach or the internal gears on the actuator.<span> </span>If your actuator is getting power but not moving the door, replace the actuator.<span> </span>If the actuator is not getting power, troubleshoot the control switch.<span> </span>Due to the wide variety of designs, we cannot provide test tips for electric blend door control switches.<br />Whether your blend door is electric or cable operated, remove the actuator and operate the door with your hand.<span> </span>If the door sticks, the heater box must be removed and opened to free the door and restore unhindered operation.<br />If your blend door is cable operated, check the cable for proper attachment at the control lever and at the door lever.<span> </span>The cable sheath must be properly adjusted and firmly clamped for proper operation.<span> </span>To adjust, first remove the cable from the door and move the door lever with your hand to observe the range of motion.<span> </span>Then set the control to full hot, open the door fully, and reattach the cable, clamping the sheath so as to ensure the door opens fully when set to hot.<br />

on Jan 31, 2011 | Dodge Caravan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Why is it that my heater on full blast feels warm but not hot on my 1995 Buick Century?

I am guessing the engine isn't over heating so the water pump is in good shape. The engine thermostat is bad and mostly open all the time not allowing the engine to get to proper operating temperature. The heater core is get plugged up or the valve the regulates the the water flow isn't opening as it should. The water valve could be in good shape but the controls to that operate the valve isn't working properly. I don't think you would have a air filter in your heater housing but there could be debris on the intake side of the the heater core, is the air flow as good as it use to be, if the air flow is less there is some kind of blockage.

Jan 17, 2015 | 1995 Buick Century

2 Answers

The A/C is not cold enough but a gage shows the lines are full and the compressor is working. What else may I look for to ck.

The other item needed is the temperature at both the evaporator and the condenser. Check your chart but at X temperature, the pressure must be Y or refrigeration is not happening.
If the pressures are good, look for air distribution issues, like air doors and water valves.

Jul 08, 2014 | Pontiac Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Heater control diagram

The Tahoe does not have a heater control valve. Coolant flows through the heater core all the time. The heater has a door that opens and allows heat to mix with air from the a/c system which also has a door for the evaporator. Depending on what temprature you choose the doors are opened by a computer that is reading a temp sensor down stream from the doors. It opens or closes the doors until the proper temp is reached. You may have a problem with the blend door being broken or the sensor may be bad.

Dec 20, 2013 | Chevrolet Tahoe Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replaced heater coil in 1998 licoln navigator not heat blows cold air

There are a couple of things you can try. The first thing would have been to check both heater hoses that attach to the heater core. When the engine is at normal running temperature both of these hoses should be equally hot with the heater turned on.

This would mean you have water flow through the heater core. This would mean the water valves are allowing flow and that a lack of heat would be from a failure in the ductwork under the dash. A flap or "door" is simply not changing position to allow airflow by the heater core.

You can get an accurate diagnosis by using the self-diagnostics built into your Climate Control head. The head is your Display screen. There is a way of keying in an activation sequence for this test. You may be able to find the sequence online, but the Codes are in a different group specific to the Climate Control.

You would need to identify the proper part under the dash by finding a diagram specific to your Model of car. You may look up the parts for sale online and see photos which will help you identify the parts.

Please rate my info.

Dec 11, 2012 | 1999 Lincoln Navigator

1 Answer

No heat when stopped for traffic

1-your thermostate is stuck open half way. thermostate is a simple device that made of enlarging metals when heat is applied. it suposed to be in close position to allow engine heat up, when specified temp reached it opens and let it flow and radiator tries to keep coolant cool.when it is broken it stucks or it acts slow or it wont acts at all. in your situation it is stuck open half way. it allows enough water to be heated but flow is limited to heat cabin heater.

2-if there are cabin heater selenoid/selenoids for two different temperature for cabin left and right, on some instance those selenoid valves to adjust cabin heater stuck open or closed like thermostate acts on first case. so heat is not enough to heat up cabin heater.

Nov 18, 2011 | 2005 Chrysler Sebring Conv

2 Answers

Im not getting any hot air from my heater in my 1989 chevy 1500, i changed the thermostat and back flushed the heater core already but still dont get hot air from the heater when turn on. What should i do...

there a valve behind the dash which connected to the heater switch allow the hot antifreeze from the engine to flow to the heater core and back to the engine, check and make sure the linkage still connected to the valve. the valve work like a regular water faucet nobs in your home which open and close; over period of time the valve get seized up. inside of the valve is made out of rubber, heat and time cause it to seized up because the valve is not use on regular basis causing to seized up. the valve is cheap and easy to replace once you get to it. being 1989 i would go ahead and pull the old one out and replace it with the new surprised the valve hold up this long if its original.

Dec 23, 2009 | 1989 Chevrolet K1500

2 Answers

1987 ford ranger 4cyc heat not working water level fine could it be thermostat

Does the coolant temperature gauge show the same level that it always has? If so, it's likely not the thermostat.

A common problem involves the water valve that allows hot coolant to flow into the heater core. This valve is usually located close to the firewall behind the engine. If this valve does not open, you will have no heat. These valves can get corroded, and the cable from the heater control can sometimes come lose. See if the arm on the valve moves when you move the heater control to heat. It should.

Oct 16, 2009 | 1987 Ford Ranger

2 Answers

1996 crown victoria has no heat

the temp blend door may not be rotating from the a/c evaporator to the heater core opening.

Could be the motor on the blend door or the temp control knob.

Do you have manual a/c or electronic temp control?

If it's the a/c door electronic actuator motor, it's on top of the plenum. Have to remove the instrument panel for access.

Hope it's the temp knob on the control head.

top one is the circuit you are looking at

Apr 23, 2009 | 1996 Ford Crown Victoria

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