Question about 1996 Plymouth Voyager
I ran it out of gas and only put enough gas in to get me home. I replaced the filter and pump because when removing fuel filter line from the pump I inadvertently broke off the nipple on the pump where it connects to the fuel filter.I only lowered the tank it only had maybe 1 gallon or so of gas in it.I installed everything checked for leaks. Drove it to the gas station and got more gas.Drove it around town for several miles with no problem.I left for an appointment the next day it drove fine with no problems. When I tried to leave from my appointment it would not start just crank.The pump is running I can hear it come on when the ignition is on.Could I have clogged the new filter with the gas that was left in the tank.Also how do you disconnect the filter lines from the pump at the quick connects?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Fuel Pump relay, Fuel Pressure Regulator may be faulty. A relay can be tested with multi-tester, and a pressure tester for regulator.
Posted on Jul 27, 2009
SOURCE: 1996 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE
This looks like you have the fuel tank vacuum. When is in repaus, the tank is sucking some air. When you start the engine, the fuel pump is sucking the fuel from tank and if this don't have a breathing hole or if this is clog or obturated then the fuel pump cannot **** anymore fuel and the engine stops. If you let it for a period of time alone then the tank might **** some air but not enough, so the engine will start but the simptome will show again. I had this simptomes with my car. Try to remove the fuel tank cap and see if you can drive more than 6-7 miles. If so, then the special breathing air hole in the fuel tank is clog. Identify it and clean it. I am not so sure about this problem but is just an ideea. Might be helpfull, who knows? Otherwise should be a PCM problem. In this case you should make a computer test. Good luck!
Posted on Feb 16, 2011
SOURCE: I HAVE A 1994 PLYMOUTH
The worst case would be a failing fuel pump (they tend to be pricey, and are a pain to change).
Another possibility is contamination in the fuel tank such as dirt, rust flakes or solid products of fuel degradation - this would clog up the new fuel filter very quickly. It wouldn't be good for the fuel pump either. Check the tank for signs of corrosion, especially around the filler tube. A quick test of the filter is to disconnect the outlet side first - if you get just a dribble of fuel out of there, then a good stream of gas from the inlet side, that is an indication of a clogged filter and therefore a tank problem. You could try to siphon or pump a sample of fuel from the bottom of the tank through the filler tube for inspection.
A third possibility is a sensor or computer problem. It seems unlikely a single-point failure would take out all of the injectors unless it's the injector power common. Maybe the engine computer uses a single buffer chip to drive the fuel injector transistors, or there's a bad power bypass capacitor for the injector power. Engines don't usually stall on sensor failures - they keep running, but often with degraded performance, and you'll get a check engine code. Check for voltage on the fuel pump relay before changing it - when the engine is on, there should be 12 V on the coil, and 0 Volts on the contacts. If you get voltage across the normally open (NO) contacts when the coil is energized, the relay contacts are bad. (The tricky part is getting at the relay socket terminals with the relay in place.)
Posted on Jun 20, 2011
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