Question about Toyota Cars & Trucks
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1984 toyota pickup timing belt
To clarify, on the DOHC engine, the intake cam gear has a line on it,
and the exhaust cam gear has an arrow on it. These should be lined up
with the corresponsing line and arrow on the VALVE COVER, pointing
straight up. I just went through this process over the weekend, and
spent quite a bit of time looking for these marking as I had removed
the valve cover. Once I found them, it was plain and simple.
In addition, be sure to not over tighten the belt when reinstalling. The tensioner has markings on it for "old" and "new". DO NOT adjust past "new", as the car will sound like a jet engine, and the belt will not last for very long.
One more item that you may as well replace while you are in there is the cam position sensor if you have not already, as there have been issues with them, and the timing housing has to be opened to get to it.
Posted on Jun 24, 2008
SOURCE: Timing belt installation
Good afternoon! Ive got you covered on this one! Have a great weekend!! I have enclosed figures for the diesel engine,the 8 valve gas and 16 valve gas. yours should be the 16 valve configuration as you will see in the figures.
Posted on Sep 25, 2009
On a 1984 Toyota I would look for a screw to set the low speed idle on the carburetor, if so equipped. Turn the screw until the RPMs are reasonable.
If you can maintain a smooth idle by adjusting the screw your home free.
If not, then there could be other problems with your vehicle's emission, ignition, comprression, or fuel.
Posted on Jul 07, 2010
SOURCE: replacing timing belt on 1984
This is a little walk through of replacing the timing chain guide
(straight guide, not the curved) without taking apart the whole front
end of the motor apart. This is a difficulty rating 3/5, though this was
really easy for me, many others may find this pretty tricky to do. You
will need to take it slow and not to rush this process. It took me just
under 30 minutes to do this, but you can look at it taking around an
hour or more. There are tools you will need to have to do this job or
else you will have to tear down the timing cover which is rated at 11.9
hours on a 4wd with power steering and A/C.
I have performed this on three Toyota trucks, all a success!
First off is the tools you will need, one is the most crucial and that is a long double box end, 0° Offset wrench, one side needs to be a 12mm. This tool is what makes it all possible.
Other tools as followed:
From top to bottom:
a) extra long, heavy duty (cannot flex) flat blade screw driver
b) 19mm shallow socket x2
c) 1/2' torque wrench
d) long 1/2' ratchet (flex head makes it a little easier)
e) 12mm 0° Offset wrench (has to be at least a foot long, this is the most important tool!!!)
f) 1/2' standard lenght ratchet
g) part pickup tool
h) 1/4' standard ratchet
i) medium length extension with 8mm socket
j) 1/4' long flex head ratchet (optional)
k) regular 12mm wrench
(not pictures is a 12mm socket to be used on the flex head 1/4' ratchet during removal of valve cover)
Now for the guide replacement:
1. REMOVE VALVE COVER
(a) Remove the ground strap from the body.
(b) Remove the four nuts and seals.
(c) Remove the valve cover.
2. REMOVE CAM SPROCKET BOLT
(a) Turn the crankshaft (using the 1/2' short ratchet with 19mm socket) until the No. 1 cylinder position is
set at TDC compression. (note take off distributor cap to verify firing on #1 cylinder. MARK on the distributor with marker or paint pen for the position of the rotor!!!)
(b) Place matchmarks on the sprocket and chain.
(c) Remove the half-circular plug.
(d) Remove the cam sprocket bolt. **(torque spec is 60ftlbs) (keeping the crankshaft in place with the smaller 1/2' ratchet, and using the long one to break the bolt loose, after that yoy should be able to unscrew by hand)
3. REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR DRIVE GEAR AND CAM-
SHAFT THRUST PLATE (the distributor rotor will move out of place, thus the importance of marking the distributor)
4. REMOVE CAM SPROCKET
Remove the cam sprocket and chain from the cam-
shaft and leave on the vibration damper.
a) once you remove the cam sprocket, using string or wire, tie the chain off the the side out of the way.
(note: the purple wire holding the chain the the throttle body side)
b) once the chain is out of the way, using the long box 12mm 0° Offset wrench to take out the two bolts holding the straight guide in place(be extra carefull when taking out the bolts as they can fall into the oil pan). Take your time on this step since it is the most time consuming. Pull out all the old pieces of the old guide and once complete, install the new guide taking care to not drop the bolts. It is easier to install the top bolt first, but not tight as the guide will need to be able to move a little when installing the bottom bolt. The bottom bolt is the trickiest to install but patience is key here. Once the bottom is tight, set the top bolt tight as well and reinstall the rest of the components in reverse order!
Posted on Dec 19, 2010
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