Question about 2002 Chevrolet Tracker
I had my brake pedal go to the fllor, Brought it into a garage....They inspected the brakes, told me there was no leaks and they figured it was the master cylinder. So I bought a brand new one and had the garage put it in but it seems like it did NOTHING to fix the problem with my brake pedal travelling further down to the floor than it should? What could be wrong..Please help!!!
It seem like you have air in your brake line.did the shop bleed you brakes ??
Posted on Dec 08, 2012
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US.
click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Did you put fresh fluid in the master cylinder? I really think you still have air in the lines. To bleed manually, start with the bleeder the greatest distance from the master cylinder, car running, helper pushing down about half way on brake pedal and releasing 3 times, on 3rd time, holding pedal down to half way depressed point while you open the bleeder valve. Repeat until you are sure all air has been flushed out. Check master cyl reservoir level often, because if it gets low and you **** air into the system, you have to start all over again. Go to wheel next greatest distance from master cyl, repeat above, working your way to wheel closest to master cyl last.
Posted on Apr 12, 2009
do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Dec 08, 2012 | 2002 Chevrolet Tracker
Apr 20, 2012 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer
Jun 23, 2011 | Ford F-250 Cars & Trucks
Mar 03, 2011 | 1999 Ford Explorer
Jan 29, 2011 | 2000 Chevrolet Blazer
Dec 30, 2010 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks
Dec 29, 2010 | Honda Civic Cars & Trucks
Jul 07, 2009 | 1999 Cadillac DeVille
Feb 20, 2009 | 1989 Chevrolet K1500
Jul 27, 2008 | 2004 Toyota Camry
344 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!