Question about 2002 Chevrolet Tracker

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My brake pedal went to the floor, brought it in...They told me it was the Master Cylinder. They changed it and put in a brand new master cylinder but it still seems like the brake pedal goes further t

I have a 2002 Chevy Tracker....It has 113 000 k on it. I was driving one day and the brake pedal went straight to the floor, when I would pump the brake pedal it would get hard, So I took it into Midas and had them take a look at it. They said they inspected it for any leaks and there were no leaks so they figured it was the Master Cylinder. So they ordered me a brand new master cylinder from the manufacturer which took over 3 days to get, Once it came in, the garage replaced it and put the brand new one in. I went to pick it up and it still seems like the brake pedal is having some extended travel.....basically replacing the master cylinder did NOTHING, The brakes still don't feel right. I am almost 100% positive that my brake pedal NEVER went that far to the floor! PLEASE HELP ME!!! What could this be?

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  • 427 Answers

The extra brake travel can be;
1. air still in the brake lines and need bleeding
2. if there are brake drums on the rear they may be out of adjustment
3. if there are warped brake disc or caliper problems that will add to the brake travel

Posted on Dec 08, 2012

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SOURCE: 97 Chevy Silverado Brake Problem

start bleding again from left to rigt all the way around.

Posted on Oct 09, 2009

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SOURCE: Brakes no longer work in 1989 Chevy half ton pickup 2 wheel drive 350cubic inch

change dump valve under master cylinder

Posted on Aug 17, 2008

dennymulford
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SOURCE: brake pedal goes soft when engin is running on 1998 chevy 1500

pull your rear drums and inspect the shoes,you may have too addjust them out by hand too get the peddle you want

Posted on Mar 15, 2009

  • 1779 Answers

SOURCE: 1998 chevy s10- brake pedal goes to the floor-

Did you put fresh fluid in the master cylinder? I really think you still have air in the lines. To bleed manually, start with the bleeder the greatest distance from the master cylinder, car running, helper pushing down about half way on brake pedal and releasing 3 times, on 3rd time, holding pedal down to half way depressed point while you open the bleeder valve. Repeat until you are sure all air has been flushed out. Check master cyl reservoir level often, because if it gets low and you **** air into the system, you have to start all over again. Go to wheel next greatest distance from master cyl, repeat above, working your way to wheel closest to master cyl last.

Posted on Apr 12, 2009

  • 113 Answers

SOURCE: Brake Pedal goes to the floor in my 1990 Chevy C1500 Scottsdale

do you have a self bleeder kit? first off, you have to bleed the master cyl back into its self and the combination valve before you go to the wheels. when you do that, I think you will find that you have air in the lines. disconnect both brake lines from the master cyl and put the bleeder kit fittings on the master cyl, then put the rubber tubing with the kit on the fittings and submerge it in the brake reservoir. make sure its full. then pump the pedal until you get a hard pedal. if that is the case, reconnect the lines to the master, then have an assistant pump up the brake pedal with the engine off, and bleed the combination valve which should be connected to the master by steel tubing. pump it up, then hold it down, and crack the fittings loose, one at a time until the pedal goes about half way down, but do not release the brake pedal until the line is tight again, otherwise you will **** air in the lines. after you do all that, go to the farthest caliper or wheel cylynder from the master and bleed that with the same technique,and dont release the pedal until you close the bleeder screw. unless you have a major prob, this will work.

Posted on Jul 20, 2009

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2 Answers

My break pedal goes all the way to the floor . I replaced brake rotors master cylinder, and Break booster. I had to bleed the brake and still pedal still goes to the floor


You still have air in the system.(not bled properly) If you let the Master cylinder drop down to nothing then you need to bench bleed that before bleeding the lines again.

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That sounds like your cups that catch & push the brake fluid are worn out in the master cylinder, get a new master cylinder .

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Did you get a good bleed with fluid coming out at all four wheels? If they bled good, and the pedal still goes to the floor, you need to check the brake master cylinder-it is probably shot with an internal leak. An internal leak will not let fluid pressure build up, so no brakes.

Did you keep the brake fluid reservoir from going dry while bleeding? If it went real low, air might have got back into the lines.

It is not uncommon when bleeding brakes on an older vehicle for the master cylinder to suddenly develop an internal leak and require replacement . Here's why: pushing the pedal all the way to the floor causes the master's piston to push in farther than ever before. The rubber cups then travel over a section of the cylinder not usually touched by the cups-old fluid can develop a crud there and when the piston pushes over it, the cups can get ruined. To avoid this when bleeding brakes, put a short piece of 2X4 wood block under the pedal. Then the pedal will not extend the master's piston beyond it's normal travel. Of course on a new master cylinder, you do not have to do this. A new master cylinder does require bench bleeding before installing, however, to ensure no air pockets develop from there.

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Time to redo the bleeding of the system again...starting with the master cylinder...you do not have to remove the master to re-bleed it. disconnect both brake lines from the master, and start again by pushing pedal to floor, and rebleed each line at the master...this is critical to work properly...you mentioned new master cylinder, if remanufactured I would return it. As noted above, after confirming the master is fully bled...rebleed each caliper beginning with the rear, farthest away from the master...you must have "air" in the brake lines. Hope this helps.

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I have a 1989 gti, the front brakes were locking up after I drove it for a few minutes, so I went ahead and replaced, pads, rotors, calipers, caliper pins, master cylinder, and brake lines, however the...


I had this same problem on my 90 Jetta but it was the master cylinder that was the problem, I first replaced the master cylinder because it was leaking badly. The new master cylinder I put on was a manufactured defect, the internal piston inside the master cylinder was not machined enough (10mills too long) so when you applied the brakes the piston would not move far enough to release the brakes but after 20 mins they would slowly release themselfs just as you said your brakes do. The only thing that can cause this problem (if you have changed everything) is the master cylinder or the brake pedal itself, did you do anything to the brake pedal or near it to change its movemment ? Make sure the brake pedal once depressed returns fully to the float position where it should be. I would try another master cylinder preferrable a used one from another vdub the same as yours, eg year,model and country of origin some parts are different if it was made in Mexico or Germany. Its going to be a pain in the *** to have to replace the master again but I see no alternative. There is one more thing you can check I just thought of....check all your brake lines from the master to the calipers for any signs of dents or sharpe curves if the metal brake line is bent too much it will restrict the flow of the fluid returning to the master cylinder after brake pedal release but not during braking. Good luck

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