Question about 1992 Ford F150 SuperCab

2 Answers

How to bleed vaccum booster brakes

Is there a special procedure for bleeding the brakes on this model?

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  • Ford Master
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Shouldn't be anything different.
Hydro-boost is different as far as the boost part goes.

Posted on Dec 08, 2012

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  • Expert
  • 271 Answers

To bleed brakes,start with a couple of 8-ounce cans of fresh brake fluid,put the vehicle in the air and take off all wheels.


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Posted on Dec 08, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

c17hydro
  • 2984 Answers

SOURCE: how to bleed the brakes for 2001 ford taurus

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Bleeding The Brake System Bleeding When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or replacement, air enters the lines causing spongy pedal action (because air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is necessary to bleed the hydraulic system to ensure all air is purged.
Always begin bleeding the brake system from the furthest wheel cylinder or caliper from the master cylinder; the right rear.
NOTE: The right side of the vehicle is the passenger side. The sides of the vehicle are determined from the driver's perspective. This reference is taken from sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward.
Maintain a full reservoir during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system, or from an open container, no matter how clean it is. Always use brake fluid from a new, sealed container. The front and rear reservoir will drain as the front or rear brakes are bled.

  1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Place the vehicle in PARK (automatic) or REVERSE (manual) with the engine OFF, and apply the parking brake. Chock the rear wheels to prevent vehicle movement. NOTE: Wheel chocks may be purchased at your local auto parts store, or a block of wood cut into wedges may be used.
  2. Loosen the lugnuts from all four wheels, but do not remove the lugnuts until the vehicle is raised and supported properly.
  3. Use an approved jack and raise the vehicle high enough to place jack stands under all four corners of the vehicle. Place the jack stands under the frame or axles of the vehicle. Ensure that the front of the vehicle is raised higher than the rear.
  4. Remove the wheels from the vehicle.
  5. Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder fill cap. Remove the cap and fill the master cylinder with brake fluid until the level is within 1/4 in. (6mm) of the top edge of the reservoir.
  6. Clean the bleeder screws at all four wheels. The bleeder screws are located on the back of the brake backing plate (drum brakes) and at the top of the brake calipers (disc brakes).
  7. Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder screw and place the other end of the hose in a plastic jar.
  8. Have an assistant place and hold pressure on the brake pedal.
  9. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 - 3/4 turn. As the bleeder is opened, the brake pedal will travel to the floor. Have the assistant inform you when the pedal has bottomed out. NOTE: Do not remove pressure from the brake pedal once it is bottomed out. No movement to the pedal should occur until the bleeder is closed and the assistant is made aware of the situation. Failure to do this will draw more air into the system.
  10. Close the bleeder screw and tell your assistant remove their foot from the brake pedal. Continue this process to purge all air from the system.
  11. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, tighten the bleeder screw and remove the hose.
  12. After bleeding each wheel, check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly.
  13. Repeat the bleeding operation at the remaining three wheels, ending with the one closet to the master cylinder. The pattern is, RR, LR, RF, LF.
  14. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level and install the reservoir cap.

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

  • 232 Answers

SOURCE: Spongy brakes after bleeding them 2 times. Should I try to bleed the master cylinder or replace it?

Honestly your guess is as good as mine. But I don't think the master cylinder is NOT bad you still have air in the system. Get a big bottle of brake fluid bleed all four sides until you run out of fluid or your brakes work properly. You should divide the bottle's content in four, then use each quantity in each side. You'll be removing air and contaminated fluid from the system. Get a small hose that fits on the bleeders and an appropriate container. I have a good feeling if you do this your brakes will work just fine. I don't know how you are bleeding the brakes. I'll let you know the proper way just in case. This is a two man job, with the wheel off, have someone start the car. Have them pump the brakes a few times to get pressure. 1With the brake pedal UP open the bleeder, 2then have your assistant press the brake pedal all the way down and leave it completely pressed down. 3Close the bleeder valve, once close and only with the valve closed have'm release the brake. Repeat as necessary, bake depressed, open valve first then press brake. DO NOT depress until valve completly closed. Close valve THEN depress. Good Luck!

Posted on May 15, 2009

inspectmycar
  • 233 Answers

SOURCE: How do I install a brake booster on a 2003 Ford

disconnect the neg batt cable,loosen clamp and disconnect air cleaner outlet tube and resonator from the air cleaner. 2.disconnect maf sensor connector. 3.lift air cleaner assy from tray and position aside. 4. remove screws from power steering resevoir, and position aside. 5.disconnect brake fluid level sensor, and if equiped brake pressure switch. 6.remove the two mounting nuts holding master cylinder, position master cylinder aside (DO NOT LOOSEN LINES ON MASTER CYL). 7.remove mounting bolts for degas bottle and postion aside. 8.if equiped diconnect wiring at the pedal position sensor. 9.relaease clamp and disconnect hose. 10.remove the pin, washer, bushing and switch, disconnect pushrod. 11.remove the nuts and brake booster, to access nuts fold back sound insulation. reverse procedure to install.

Posted on Sep 16, 2009

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daltonp
  • 361 Answers

SOURCE: how to bleed braked on 1998 ford explorer

It will take 2 of you. 1 fill up the resevoir.2 you need to open the bleed nipple on the furthest brake from the master.3 have somone pump the brake once then close the nipple have them pump it again and hold their foot down on the brake, while they have their foot down on the brake open the nipple untill all of the air and fluid comes out, then close the nipple. Make sure you keep the resevoir topped up. Do this severel times until only fluid comes out of the nipple. Repeat on all of the wheels. You can buy a kit that pressurises the system so you can do it on your own but they are expensive for a 1 time deal.
Good luck.

Posted on Jul 20, 2010

  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: I HAVE A 95 F250

The slave cylinder is the next thing I'd replace.

Posted on Dec 29, 2010

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Related Questions:

2 Answers

Need to know procedure for bleeding master cylinder and lines.


There is a special pump used to bleed the master cylinder first then after the master cylinder is installed you bleed the brakes and fill as you go it's a two-man operation

Mar 03, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Change brake pads and one caliber,bleed brakes a few times still hardly any brake


may stiil hav air in them--a repair manual for ur model at a partstore or local library is helpful--------ur brake booster cud be bad-the master cylinder can leak fluid into it-and u dont see it

Oct 23, 2013 | 1997 Subaru Legacy

1 Answer

I cannot get what I feel is a good firm pedal. I have bled the brakes a least 4 times using the proper service manual procedure as well as pressure bleeding. I have gone through 3 qts. of new brake fluid....


i say you are wrong. if the brakes are hard, pumped 3 times
or more after engines stalls, that hydraulic system is not with air
when the booster is dead, the system reverses to 1929 brakes.
err 1965? with dual brakes......

so it's a booster /vacuum issue.
some booster need calibration, not just thrown on.
if you run all the FSM booster checks, read the FSM??????
Factory service manual???

worse of all , you never said why you were bleeding at all.
it just one day, got funky
it needed 2 year bleeding, (like i do)
you replaced something
did you read the pages on ABS and all the steps in bleeding
for ABS, some require a special scan tool.
RTM , no , read it twice.
did you get air in front of Mr. ABS modulator brick?

Sep 16, 2013 | 2008 Acura Tl

1 Answer

Do the car have to be running to bleed the brakes on a 1998 chrysler sebring?


No, not running. Also check vaccum hose to the brake booster.

Mar 27, 2013 | 1998 Chrysler Sebring

1 Answer

Bleed hilux brakes


Brake Pedal will be hard with engine off & a couple pumps
of the pedal,will bleed off vacuum,that is normal

System not properly Bleed or Master Cylinder is leaking

Jan 08, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

98 corvette what is the proper procedure to bleeding the brakes


  1. Raise the vehicle on a suitable support.
  2. Remove all four tire and wheel assemblies.
  3. Inspect the brake system for leaks and visual damage.
  4. Inspect the battery state of charge.
  5. Install a scan tool.
  6. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF. With the scan tool, establish communications with the electronic brake control module (EBCM). Select Special Functions. Select Automated Bleed from the Special Functions menu.
  7. Bleed the base brake system. Follow the scan tool directions until the desired brake pedal height is achieved.
  8. If the bleed procedure is aborted, a malfunction exists. Perform the following steps before resuming the bleed procedure:
    1. If a DTC is detected, check for the cause and repair as necessary.
    2. If the brake pedal feels spongy, perform the conventional brake bleed procedure again.

  9. When the desired pedal height is achieved, press the brake pedal in order to inspect for firmness. Remove the scan tool.
  10. Install the tire and wheel assemblies. Inspect the brake fluid level.
  11. Road test the vehicle while inspecting that the pedal remains high and firm.

  1. Raise the vehicle on a suitable support.
  2. Remove all four tire and wheel assemblies.
  3. Inspect the brake system for leaks and visual damage.
  4. Inspect the battery state of charge.
  5. Install a scan tool.
  6. Turn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
  7. With the scan tool, establish communications with the electronic brake control module (EBCM). Select Special Functions. Select Automated Bleed from the Special Functions menu.
  8. Bleed the base brake system.
  9. Follow the scan tool directions until the desired brake pedal height is achieved.

Jan 03, 2011 | 1998 Chevrolet Corvette

2 Answers

The brake pedal goes to the floor with no resistance. I have replaced both rear wheel cylinders and master cylinder, problem persists.


Is the brake-light on? I understand what you replaced but what was the procedure that you followed to bleed the brakes? Did you bench bleed the master? After installing the new master, did you bleed air out of the proportioning valve, and all four wheels. You need to start with the F/L wheel and finish with the R/R wheel. Unless you own and are using an automatic brake bleeding unit. You will have to get another person to help bleed them.

May 07, 2010 | 1984 Ford F 150

1 Answer

Bleeding the power assist system


you have a vaccum leak or the brake booster diaghram is damged!
check all vaccum hoses but i bet its the booster! get it done ASAP!!
Cheers rob.

Jul 28, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

3 Answers

No brake pressure


should not need to bleed module try giving the proportion valve afew good smacks sometimes this will dislodge the valve then rebleed

Jun 03, 2009 | 1998 GMC Jimmy

2 Answers

1991 corvette brake syatem


You need to bleed this system with the special tool that holds the ABS solenoids open, it plugs into the ABS brake controller, if you don't do this there is no way to get the air out of the system, that is why your pedal is low.

Oct 29, 2008 | 1991 Chevrolet Corvette

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