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Chevy cavalier whining noise at 40 to 55 mph

Whining noise at 40 to 55 mph not really when its cold but starts doing it when it warms up sounds like errrr straining pump of some sort also when i take my foot off the gas it stops???

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  • app_3rp31361
    app_3rp31361 Dec 08, 2012

    oh by the way it don't do it while in park

  • app_3rp31361
    app_3rp31361 Dec 09, 2012

    OK this sound really weird but it sounds like someone running something under the hood a howling dull whine and when i let up on the gas it stops and does it again when i put my foot back on the gas.

  • app_3rp31361
    app_3rp31361 Dec 09, 2012

    not a hub,changed tensioner pulley and belt 2 years ago can it be the torque converter cherry red fluid and not problems with the trans?

  • app_3rp31361
    app_3rp31361 Dec 09, 2012

    that leaves power steering pump or alts going bad? does not do it in park though even if foots on brake and i put it in drive and push the gas

  • app_3rp31361
    app_3rp31361 Dec 09, 2012

    im thinking fuel pump but have no problems starting or running the car and why only at 30 to 50 mph?


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Chevy Blazer won't start; fuel pump needs replacing

Before spending several hundres on a fuel pump, I recommend doing a fuel pressure test. You can get a test gauge pretty cheap at a parts store. If the pump is junk, you raise the truck, lower the fuel tank, unplug the electronics from the pump at the top of the tank, then with a hammer and flat head scrwedrive, gently tap the lock ring in a counter clockwise direction until it pops off. Pull the pump assembly out and install the new one. Reverse directions to install.

Posted on Jun 02, 2009

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SOURCE: replace fuel pump on a 2001 chevy cavalier

First, if your car still runs, pull the fuel pump relay, and start your car, letting it run until it dies. This will depressurize the fuel system. Then you must support the fuel tank, and take loose the straps that hold it up. Slowly lower the tank until you can unhook the tank filler hose and overflow hose by taking the clamps off and sliding the hoses off. lower it some more, and unhook the fuel lines; they require you to insert a special tool around the edge of the connection, however this can be improvised with screwdrivers or a piece of plastic or metal bent into a C shape. Next unhook the wire connection. Once you get it down, it's easiest to empty as much fuel as you can; as this will help you get it back into place. The fuel pump is inside the tank, which locks into place with a 1/8th turn. You will need a hammer and a brass punch for this job, as it needs to be tapped around to unlock. It will then lift out. Compare the two pump assemblies. The inside parts can be slightly different, but ensure that the fuel lines are IDENTICAL and the wire connection is IDENTICAL. The new one will come with a new silicone seal. Ensure that you don't put the new one in in such a way as the float doesn't bind, otherwise you'll be doing this procedure again if you don't like guessing how much gas you have. This can be a challenge to wrestle with putting the new one in, as you have to push it down to compress the new seal, and turn it to lock it. Once you get it started, you can let up and use the hammer and punch again to tighten it the rest of the way. Next, put it back together just as you took it apart, and don't forget to hook up the wires, hoses, and fuel lines. No tools required for the fuel lines, they just snap together. Once everything's tight and hooked up, put gas back in it, and if you haven't already, put the fuel pump relay back in. This you can do as soon as the car dies, and is completely optional if the car won't run at all. You are now ready to start it up, but turn the ignition on to the run position, wait a few seconds for the pump to pressurize, and then start it. Have fun, and feel free to ask any questions should you have any.

Posted on Feb 22, 2010

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