Question about 1993 Toyota Pickup

1 Answer

Ignitor receives no distributor signal

No spark...coil tests good, distributor tests good, ignitor good, no distributor signal at ignitor wiring

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  • Andre Reville Dec 07, 2012

    Thank-you. Found the factory wiring diagram...think I've found the problem.

  • Anonymous Dec 08, 2012

    Would appreciate the solution ---Thank You--- Pete

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1 Answer

How are you doing this testing?

You need wiring diagrams,regardless of
what has been done so far, if your to continue.

Posted on Dec 07, 2012

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Toyota Guy
  • 42 Answers

SOURCE: 1984 toyota pickup 22r motor. No fire to distributor

At the cost of the igniter i recommend checking your pickup coil.( The 2 wire sensor in side of your distributor. The The igniter will not allow the coil to fire with out reference form the pickup coil. Coil has primary and secondary resistances. when the primary coil powers up and then pulses off, this cause a high voltage due to magnetic degeneration. Check the coils primary and secondary resitances along with the air gap in the pickup coil, and also check the resitances on the pickup coil. If i am right your igniter will be okay.Get a good manual for you truck, It will save you money down the road.
Toyota does not have at test proseger for the ingiter.

Also check the wires in between the pickup coil and the igniter.
I hope this helped.

Posted on May 04, 2009

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: engine died & wont start no spark ignition coil tested good

try your ignition module in the distributor much more likely. just install rebuilt distributor if that is the problem , if you just replace module the main distributor assem will **** out shortly after.
Make sure you check for broken timing belt also it is one of those two!

Posted on May 27, 2009

alicantecoli
  • 22265 Answers

SOURCE: do'not have any spark at distributor. also do not

think this could be the factory immobiliser,seek local mechanic to confirm

Posted on Oct 23, 2009

  • 306 Answers

SOURCE: 93 toyota celica gt. engine turns over but wont spark

My experience with Bosch ignition system (found on european cars) is the spark control is sent by the ignition module. The ignition module has to receive an input usually from a crankshaft sensor. This is usually near the crankshaft pulley on many cars. I am currently working on a 04 Toyota RAV4 and it has exactly that. If your sensor wiring gets loose or a bad wire then the computer won't signal for spark. This may not be your problem but it sounds like it probably is.
(By the way on my Alfa Romeo it is a sensor around the bell housing that senses the teeth on the flywheel) Good luck!

Posted on Mar 17, 2010

ramp84
  • 57 Answers

SOURCE: Cranks won't start/ distributor is turning/ have

have your already check the high tension wire and the distributor cap maybe the contacts have corrosion in it. Try cleaning it with a sand paper of the contact point on the distributor if you have.

Posted on Mar 26, 2010

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1 Answer

I have just finished replacing the head gaskets on my 1996 pathfinder,i'am confident the rebuild has been done right but i do not have a spark at my distributor.


First check for spark at the coil anyway you can. If good there then the path to the plug wires is your problem (coil wire or distributor cap). The plugged in ignition coil creates the spark if the crank angle sensor is plugged in and operating AND the coil has voltage available and the igniter works fine. Ignitor is Japanese for ignition control module (icm). I use a test light clipped to ground to check for voltage to the coil with the key on. Then I check for a flashing test light clipped to battery voltage and probing/touching the other coil terminal. This splits the circuit so you know which side is at fault. Missing voltage may be due to a blown fuse a disconnected plug or a bad ignition switch or other. No flashing ground signal can be the igniter or crank angle sensor or pick up coil if equipped with one inside a distributor.

Apr 06, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I renewd head and replaced it,but now no spark from coil after reasemlbly.


what does working mean.
1: cranks but will not start
2: runs bad.
3: spark dead.

the stock sammy engine, 1.3 has a stand alone Distributor.
it has a VR sensor + ignitor and 1 external coil.
any ign coil can be bench tested. ask.
did you do the checks in the FSM yet?

many a SAMMI have the engine swapped, this old
many are upgraded to Sidekick G16 engines, so first post what the engine is, or a photo of it for fast ID.
chapter 8 ? read that? volume 2.
pdf page 69:? coil tests.
set the VR gap right yet? page 70
vr gen resistance page 70?
page 71 , ignitor test , figures 8-16?

does rotor spin , cranking?
with a voltmeter on the negative (-) . terminal (Volts to ground test)
does the ignitor fire the coil as you crank car.
12v, 0v, 12v ,0v, repeats as you crank
if not, the Dizzy is bad, or not grounded.
or the the coil is open (primary) see page 69 again.

if the dizzy is dead. we replace the whole thing
from Cardone, for 1/2 prize of bad parts inside.
the internals are very expensive.

the distributor must be grounded well, and with varnish on these
old parts, that can fail.

the VR is a very weak signal (below 1v) that is is amplified by the
VR amp then this is a strong gating signal to the Ignitor which
is just a very powerful transistor, in reality.
you can check the ignitor output with a meter or scope of any kind
to see if it is FIRING.

if the voltage is 0v, the coil is open or the ignitor is shorted.
the latter failure, loves to burn up good coils.
if stuck at 12v, cranking, the VR/Ignitor is bad, try setting the gap
or grounding the dizzy case with a jumper wire to the battery neg lug.
that is it on old DIZZy's (distributors, unless the advance is bad....)











Jan 31, 2014 | 1988 Suzuki Samurai

1 Answer

91 honda civic has no spark changed coil still dont start


The ignitor is the brain that fires the coil. The distributor sends a signal to the ignitor, so if you have power to the coil either component could be defective.
You may need a shop manual to get the testing procedures for the ignitor.

Jun 13, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Not firing to da distributor


No fire (spark) from the coil? Check for a 12 volt power signal to the coil with key on, and test the coil, or swap in a known good coil. If no help, find and test the ignition control module, or ignitor as it is called on Japanese models.

Dec 03, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Please I need help. I have a,1995 geo prizm. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pu relay switch, temp sensor. Took it to a shop and hooked up to machine for check engine light and found out...


It's not really a switch. Below is a desciption of what the code means. In about 50 percent of the cases it's a bad connection which is causing the failure and there are many tests to check different circuits. In order to rule out the ignitor here is a quick test you can do. Below is a picture of a breakdown of you distributor (yes the ignitor is in the distributor). Take the distributor cap off. Using a digtal volt meter check with your postive probe the black wire terminal connected to the ignition coil and ground the negative probe to a good grouns like the battery. Make sure you are getting at least 10 to 12 volts. If you are check the connection at the brown and black wire between the coil and the ignitor and make sure all is good (like good continuity) If all is good, chances are the ignitor is faulty. If you are not getting the voltage on the first test right at the black wire terminal at the coil the coil could be faulty. As I said it's a 50/50 thing on this code as far as wiring or a componant such as the coil or ignittor. I have found in the past that in most cases if say a coil or ignitor goes bad, it's just bad and you end up in a no start situation but there are those odd cases that outside temps effect everything like engine heat or a componant over heating.Hope this helps and good luck.

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Mar 11, 2012 | 1995 Geo Prizm

2 Answers

Got kno spark from park plugs


You didn't state the year, make, model or engine. So I will guess it is a 4 cylinder car... late 80s or early 90s. If the coil is external ( not under the distributor cap ) You should check for spark from the coil to ground. If there is spark, that would mean there is spark going into the distributor but not coming out. That would indicate a bad distributor cap or rotor. If the coil is under the distributor cap, then you will have to remove the distributor cap. Inspect the underside of the distributor cap, look for burnt terminals, cracks or tracking. Next inspect the rotor, it requires removal of a screw through the side of the rotor into the distributor shaft. You might have to rotate the engine to access the screw. Beyond that there are three sensors and an ignitor in the distributor, some parts stores have the equiptment neccesary to test the ignitor. A new ignitor is around $80. If you have a multimeter, you can check for resistance to the three sensors at the 8 pin plug. The ohm reading should be 350-700 ohms across the blue/green wire and the blue/yellow wire, orange/blue wire and the white/blue wire, the solid orange wire and the solid white wire. None of the sensors are available to buy, so if any of these three sensors are bad, you have buy a distributor.. best of luck.

Mar 16, 2011 | Honda Accord Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

What is a ignition output signal on a 1990 honda accord , recently replaced entire distributor thats the coil , sensors, cap, rotor, ignitor. etc. i have power at the distributor, power at the coil , but...


Most of the time these distributor come with the ignition module did your, if it did and it has not been that long and is still under warranty, have it replace, if it did not come with one replace module.

Jun 11, 2010 | 1990 Honda Accord

2 Answers

I have no spark i replaced the spark plugs spark wires and the coil pack and still nothing my power distribution box is fine any ideas


Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead. (don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark. It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)


If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens. Wiring tests ok. ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Sep 29, 2009 | 1992 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

Hi, 94 seville, no spark, how do I check crank and cam sensors? coil pack? ignition control module? I am trying to determine why no spark. Any help in explaining how to check these items would be great....


Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)


If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Jun 27, 2009 | 1995 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

No spark in my 1999 silverado 4x4 4.8 engine


Crank engine with distributor cap removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?

Are you getting power to the + positive side of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil is likely dead.(don’t rely merely on resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still give no spark.It happens but is unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes 4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)


If this part of the primary ignition tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens.Wiring tests ok.ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........

Jun 01, 2009 | 1999 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

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