Question about 1997 Ford Probe

3 Answers

Are there vacuum hose on the brakes hydraulic system?

When the engine is off, the brake pedal will pump and hold, however, when the engine starts, the brake pedal goes to the floor, so are there vacuum hoses on the brakes system. Is this an indication of a vacuum hose leak?

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  • Ford Master
  • 5,763 Answers

NO. the vacuum is used to make the brake pedal easy to push, power brakes. the pedal would be hard without vacuum, that is why the pedal gets hard with the key off and engine not running. the problem you are having is more of a hydraulic problem.
Have the brakes checked asap. the brake system may have a leak causing the pedal to go low. check the fluid level and if it is low or empty then there is a problem, could be a rotted brake line leaking or a wheel cylinder leaking.

Posted on Dec 07, 2012

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  • Ford Master
  • 14,333 Answers

Your master cylinder is attached to the power brake booster,the vacuum could not be holding on the booster,here's a link to remove.Here's another link to the power brake booster,there are 2 types,automatic transmission and manual.

Posted on Dec 07, 2012

You have rusted out & leaking brake tubing, if the
pedal goes to the floor

There is vacuum hoses to the Power Brake Booster
& a check valve

The pedel is hard until you start the car,them goes
down if vacuum is working,but not to the floor

Could be a hose or check valve issue

Posted on Dec 07, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 9 Answers

SOURCE: brakes

Since there is no loss of fluid we can rule out any leaks. A poor booster would make you apply the brake much harder to stop. So somehow you are not developing the necessary pressure for the brakes to function. The pressure is developed by the master cylinder seals. You can get a rebuild kit or a rebuilt master cylinder but the real pain is bench bleeding the new one. Luck to you.

Posted on Jul 18, 2008

  • 208 Answers

SOURCE: brakes

bad seals in the master cylinder

Posted on Jun 22, 2009

emissionwiz
  • 75797 Answers

SOURCE: brake pedel pushes to the floor

pump the pedal about 10 times and see if it comes back up, u need to pump the caliper pistons out after a brake job.

Posted on Jun 27, 2009

  • 12 Answers

SOURCE: brake pedal goes to the floor

check vacumn and\or connections to the vacumn boost cannister.

Posted on Apr 21, 2010

roniecon
  • 6826 Answers

SOURCE: I have a '97 F250 diesel with about 180K. The

Make sure the calipers are not locked down on the rotors.

Posted on Jun 20, 2010

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4 Answers

Why is it hard to push on the brakes


The most obvious cause for a hard pedal is simply not enough vacuum. Check the brake power booster by pumping on the brake pedal while the car isn't running. Continue pumping until you've "bled off" the vacuum from the booster. Hold the pedal down while you start the car. The pedal should go down a bit more beneath your foot. If it doesn't, then you should examine the connection between the vacuum hose of the brake power and the engine's vacuum.
Replace the brake power booster if the connection's fine, which would fix the hard brake pedal problem.

It may be your calipers need replaced. Check them for signs of wear. Look at the metal spring where the brake pads sit.
Apply tension to the pad and see whether you hear a pop. If you do, the brake pad is moving too much on the bracket. Replace the caliper. This could help the hard brake pedal.

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Brakes are hard to depress causing stopping problem


1: inspect all brake linings first.
no pulling left or right braking?
the car has 100% full manual brakes. if the brake booster fails.
(its only and assist !!! for 50lb small folks)
so does it? it takes more pedal pressure but has 100% full braking.
this is no accident its by design.
make sure none of the brake shoes/pads are soaked in DoT3/4 fluid
or grease or gear oil.
and no brake fluid leaks end to end, this is really #1 on all cars.
look, then look again. even behind and in front of the master cylinder.
look at tires (inside for fluid leaks>)
2: do the booster test. did the vacuum hose to it fall off?
or got pinched, or ?

google brake booster test
if ABS system. get it all checked,
if ABS get the ABS scanned.

if you cant stop correctly,,,,???? , dont drive.
get it fixed.

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Step by step instructions for replacing brake booster on a 1999 Toyota Camry


its my pleasure to answer your question how to replace the brake booster :
1 With the engine off, step on the brake pedal several times to relieve the brake booster of vacuum.
2 Press the brake pedal down and start the engine. Verify that the brake pedal sinks slightly. Turn off engine.
3 Remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster.
4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Plug the fittings to prevent brake fluid seepage.
5 Disconnect the brake pedal from the push rod.
6 Have an assistant hold the brake booster from inside the engine compartment. Remove the nuts that hold the brake booster to the firewall. These nuts are usually located under the dash on the interior of the firewall.
7 Remove the brake booster.
8 Install the new brake booster to the firewall. Tighten the mounting nuts.
9 Connect the push rod to the brake pedal.
10 Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
11 Attach the master cylinder to the new brake booster and reconnect the brake lines.
.12 Bleed the brakes at the master cylinder.

Oct 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to remove brake booster on 1999 Toyota Camry


The following steps will help you to replace a Toyota Camry brake booster :
1 With the engine off, step on the brake pedal several times to relieve the brake booster of vacuum.
2 Press the brake pedal down and start the engine. Verify that the brake pedal sinks slightly. Turn off engine.
3 Remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster.
4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Plug the fittings to prevent brake fluid seepage.
5 Disconnect the brake pedal from the push rod.
6 Have an assistant hold the brake booster from inside the engine compartment. Remove the nuts that hold the brake booster to the firewall. These nuts are usually located under the dash on the interior of the firewall.
7 Remove the brake booster.
8 Install the new brake booster to the firewall. Tighten the mounting nuts.
9 Connect the push rod to the brake pedal.
10 Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
11 Attach the master cylinder to the new brake booster and reconnect the brake lines.
.12 Bleed the brakes at the master cylinder.

Oct 04, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do i replace the brake booster on a 98 Mercury villager


12 specific steps will help you :
1 With the engine off, step on the brake pedal several times to relieve the brake booster of vacuum.
2 Press the brake pedal down and start the engine. Verify that the brake pedal sinks slightly. Turn off engine.
3 Remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster.
4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Plug the fittings to prevent brake fluid seepage.
5 Disconnect the brake pedal from the push rod.
6 Have an assistant hold the brake booster from inside the engine compartment. Remove the nuts that hold the brake booster to the firewall. These nuts are usually located under the dash on the interior of the firewall.
7 Remove the brake booster.
8 Install the new brake booster to the firewall. Tighten the mounting nuts.
9 Connect the push rod to the brake pedal.
10 Connect the vacuum hose to the vacuum brake booster.
11 Attach the master cylinder to the new brake booster and reconnect the brake lines.
.12 Bleed the brakes at the master cylinder.

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WHY ARE BRAKES SO HARD TO PRESS ON 90 LINCOLN MARK VII?


The power brakes vacuum booster... may have a vacuum leak. you can check it with an engine vacuum meter, or remove the rubber hose from the booster and plug it.. and see if the engine changes pase, idle smooths out, revs a bit higher, etc. noticeable change in engine idle would confirm a leak.

Oct 01, 2012 | 1990 Lincoln Mark VII

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Have a 1993 dodge Caravan SE. Purchased it from a man which converted it from ABS to hydraulics. I didn't know it had brake problems till i got it running. He put on a 3 outlet 2 inlet proportional...


if something goes wrong with abs the brake system it reverts back to standard system!! If you can pump brake pedal up and hold it and start engine and it drops thats normal.You say low pedal if you go 15mph on road and check where pedal is when brakes apply.Power brakes will push aLMost to floor while stopped but while moveing you`ll almost go to slide or will go into slide if pedal is pushed to floor.Get on some gravel at 10 mph and hit brakes to a complete stop get out and check to see if all 4 tires slid or 2 front or only 2 rear. this will get you closer to problem good luck.

Jul 12, 2011 | 1993 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

When driving my 2000 pontiac sunfire, I will use my brakes and sometimes they go to the floor and the car barely comes to a stop. Sometimes they work fine though. If I pump the brakes they work fine as...


try this ABS bleeding procedure:

WITHOUT TECH 1® OR T-100®

Do not place your foot on the brake pedal through this entire procedure unless specifically instructed to do so.
This method can only be used if the ABS warning lamp is not illuminated and not DTC's are present.
  1. Remove your foot from the brake pedal.
  2. Start the engine and allow it to run for at least 10 seconds while observing the ABS warning lamp.
  3. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON and stayed ON after about 10 seconds, the bleeding procedure must be stopped and a Tech 1® must be used to diagnose the ABS function.
  4. If the ABS warning lamp turned ON for about 3 seconds, then turned OFF and stayed OFF, turn the ignition OFF .
  5. Repeat Steps 1-4 one more time.
  6. The entire brake system should now be bled by following the guide or pressure bleeding procedure.

Manual Bleeding
See Figure 3
  1. Clean the master cylinder fluid reservoir cover and surrounding area, then remove the cover.
  2. Add fluid, if necessary to obtain a proper fluid level, then put the reservoir cover back on.
  3. Prime the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
    1. Attach a bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve.
    3. Depress and hold the brake pedal until the fluid begins to flow.
    4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
    5. Repeat Steps 3b-3d until no air bubbles are present.
    6. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 3a-3e.

  4. Once the fluid is seen to flow from both modulator bleeder valves, the ABS modulator/master cylinder assembly is sufficiently full of fluid. However, it may not be completely purged of air. At this point, move to the wheel brakes and bleed them. This ensures that the lowest points in the system are completely free of air and then the assembly can purged of any remaining air.
dd40a47.gif

Fig. Fig. 3: ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder bleeder locations

  1. Remove the fluid reservoir cover. Fill to the correct level, if necessary, then fasten the cover.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Proceed, as outlined in the following steps, to bleed the wheel brakes in the following sequence: right rear, left rear, right front, then left front.
    1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the bleeder valve at the wheel, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Open the bleeder valve.
    3. Have an assistant slowly depress the brake pedal.
    4. Close the valve and slowly release the release the brake pedal.
    5. Wait 5 seconds.
    6. Repeat Steps 7a-7e until the brake pedal feels firm at half travel and no air bubbles are observed in the bleeder hose. To assist in freeing the entrapped air, tap lightly on the caliper or braking plate to dislodge any trapped air bubbles.

  4. Repeat Step 7 for the remaining brakes in the sequence given earlier.
  5. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  6. Remove the reservoir cover, then fill to the correct level with brake fluid and replace the cap.
  7. Bleed the ABS hydraulic modulator/master cylinder assembly as follows:
    1. Attach a clear plastic bleeder hose to the rearward bleeder valve on the modulator, then submerge the opposite hose end in a clean container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
    2. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal with moderate force.
    3. Slowly open the rearward bleeder valve and allow the fluid to flow.
    4. Close the valve, then release the brake pedal.
    5. Wait 5 seconds.
    6. Repeat Steps 11a-11e until no air bubbles are present.
    7. Relocate the bleeder hose to the forward hydraulic modulator bleeder valve, then repeat Steps 11a-11f.

  8. Carefully lower the vehicle, then check the brake fluid and add if necessary. Don't forget to put the reservoir cap back on.
  9. With the ignition turned to the RUN position, apply the brake pedal with moderate force and hold it. Note the pedal travel and feel. If the pedal feels firm and constant and the pedal travel is not excessive, start the engine. With the engine running, recheck the pedal travel. If it's still firm and constant and pedal travel is not excessive, road test the vehicle and make sure the brakes are operating properly.
  10. If the pedal feels soft or has excessive travel either initially or after the engine is started, the following procedure may be used:
    1. With the Tech 1® scan tool, Release then Apply each motor 2-3 times and cycle each solenoid 5-10 times. When finished, be sure to Apply the front and rear motors to ensure the pistons are in the upmost position. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE.
    2. If a Tech 1® scan tool is not available, remove your foot from the brake pedal, start the engine and allow it run for at least 10 seconds to initialize the ABS. DO NOT DRIVE THE VEHICLE. After 10 seconds, turn the ignition OFF . The initialization procedure most be repeated 5 times to ensure any trapped air has been dislodged.
    3. Repeat the bleeding procedure, starting with Step 1.

  11. Road test the vehicle, and make sure the brakes are operating properly.

Oct 12, 2010 | 2000 Pontiac Sunfire

2 Answers

I have very little rear brakes on my 91 w350. the shoes are fine and so are the wheel cylinders. I have recently replaced the master cylinder and had the system power bled at a shop. Is it the...


I assume you bled the rest of the system. If so check your rear adjustment. Adjust the parking brake at the same time. If no fix, then open up your rear brakes and inspect the hardware, cylinder/caliper, and adjuster. Only after all that would I suspect the proportioning valve. Ways to test that vary vehicle to vehicle. Good luck!

Apr 20, 2010 | Dodge W250 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Have to press hard on breaks to break on 528i bmw 2000


sounds like brake booster not working
check vacuum hose that goes to booster is ok and not leaking
engine off
pump up brake pedal several times
hold brake pedal down
start engine
pedal should sink down approx half to 3/4 way down indicating booster is working
if pedal doesnt go down when engine is running booster has leak or no vacuum supply from engine which requires great pedal effort to try and get vehicle to stop.

Jun 26, 2009 | 2000 BMW 5 Series

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