Question about Cars & Trucks
Just want to know if i need to get alignment or if i can drive just after only doing lower rear control arm bushings
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Control arm and stabilizer bar
It would probably be a good idea to just replace all the bushings while youre at it. car has a few miles on it and there may be a noticeable differance from one side to the other in terms of handling if you just do one side. Just do it now and get it over with.
Posted on May 15, 2008
dealer only or general mechanic to change these parts not really a do it yourself job .do you have a two ton jack ??? or the metal plates in floor to move the suspension to check it ---no take it to a garage trust me it will be cheaper and quicker in the end .you leave something loose or incorrectly fitted and with this heavy lump of detroit steel you could kill a lot of people .
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
I just did this job on my 98 regal, and I own the service manuals also. The lower control arm bushing that usually goes, is the front one. The rear one doesn't usually go, it is horizontally mounted. The front one for some reason is vertical. The control arm must be removed, and put in a vise. The front bushings outer metal sleeve, must be driven out with a chisel. It comes out easily. The new bushing can be tapped in with a hammer. Hope this helps!
Posted on Mar 01, 2009
That control arm is technically un-servicable and by the end of the day after finding something,then trying to wrestle these in where they work properly,probably the best, easiest and cheapest in the end is to replace the control arm.
Posted on Aug 07, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks Jeff. I bought two control arms online and my mechanic installed them for me. He was surprised that they were not serviceable."
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Dec 25, 2014 | 1998 Ford Expedition
The lower control arm is a two-piece welded unit with a riveted ball joint. A conventional rubber bushing is used for the rear lower control arm pivot. The front lower control arm bushing is mounted vertically.
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Some special tools are required to perform this operation including, a front hub spindle removal tool and a suitable ball joint separator tool.
WARNING Do not hammer or pry ball joint from knuckle. Failure to use recommended tools may cause damage to the ball joint and seal.
See Figure 1
Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the control arm-to-frame mounting
Apr 20, 2013 | Pontiac Cars & Trucks
Lexus Car ES, IS, LS 1998-06
Coil Spring Rear Suspension
Fig. Checking wheel bearings for excessive play
NOTE The rear wheel bearings are non-adjustable. If the wheel bearing is out of specifications, replace the wheel bearing.
Removal & Installation
Fig. Removing the oil seal (inner)-LS 430
Fig. Removing the oil seal (outer)-LS 430
Snapring from inside the axle housing Bearing from the axle housing
Fig. Installing the oil seal (outer)-LS 430
Backing plate to the axle housing. Do NOT install the bolts or nuts at this time. Inner race (inside) to the axle housing Axle hub to the axle housing Backing plate in position. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm). New oil seal (inner) to the axle housing. Coat the oil seal lip with multipurpose grease.
Fig. Installing the oil seal (inner)-LS 430
New dust deflector. Be sure to align the hose for the ABS speed sensor in the dust deflector and axle carrier. Upper control arm to the axle carrier by installing the nut. Tighten the nut to 80 ft. lbs. (108 Nm). Axle carrier and upper control arm to the vehicle as an assembly 2 upper control arm set bolts and tighten the bolts to 121 ft. lbs. (164 Nm) Bolt and nut holding the strut to the axle carrier. Tighten to 101 ft. lbs. (137 Nm). Bolt and nut connecting the No. 2 lower control arm to the axle carrier. Tighten the bolt to 60 ft. lbs. (81 Nm). Nut and adjusting cam to hold the No. 2 lower control arm to the body. Align the adjusting cam marks and tighten the nut to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm). Stabilizer bar link to the No. 2 lower control arm and tighten the nut to 48 ft. lbs. (65 Nm) No. 1 lower control arm to the axle carrier and body. Install the nut to hold the No. 1 lower control arm to the axle carrier. Tighten the nut to 43 ft. lbs. (59 Nm). Nut and adjusting cam to hold the No. 1 lower control arm to the body. Align the matchmarks and tighten the nut to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm). Strut rod to the axle carrier and body. Install the bolt and nut to hold the strut rod to the body. Tighten to 57 ft. lbs. (78 Nm). Bolt and nut to hold the strut rod to the axle carrier. Tighten to 136 ft. lbs. (184 Nm) Parking brake shoes and cable Outboard joint side of the halfshaft and align the matchmarks on the side gear shaft and the halfshaft. Coat the threads with clean oil and install the hexagon bolts. Tighten bolts to 61 ft. lbs. (83 Nm). Suspension member brace with the 2 bolts. Tighten the 2 bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Nut to hold the halfshaft to the rear axle. Tighten the nut to 213 ft. lbs. (289 Nm). Lock cap and cotter pin Brake disc to the axle hub with the matchmarks aligned. Install the 2 screws and tighten the screws to 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Brake caliper to the vehicle and install the 2 bolts. Tighten the bolts to 77 ft. lbs. (104 Nm). ABS speed sensor and wiring harness Height control sensor link with the matchmarks aligned. Tighten the nut to 48 inch lbs. (5 Nm). Rear wheel(s) Negative battery cable
Fig. Exploded view rear carrier assembly, hub and bearing-
Fig. Exploded view rear Axle carrier and hub assembly-ES 330
Removal & Installation
Strut & Coil Spring
Removal & Installation
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