Whenever I start my car, it makes a sqeeking noise. My belts are new, the pulley was replaced, I've had a full tune-up with plugs. Once I start the car, it keeps cutting off as I try to drive. It happened nine times yesterday afternoon, it also cut off while I was driving. It sounds like it's going to cough, it's like it's trying to idol. I had an oil change, catalytic converter, flex pipe and other things replaced. I don't understand, I have 90,000 miles on it, great body, should I just junk it????
Re: my ford freestar keeps cutting off when starting.
It sounds like what mine does. After it dries out it will run again. Idols at over 2000 in nuetral, when nuetral idol goes back to normal everything should work again.Pretty sure its in the PCM. There is a safety bulletin out on it, not a recall. I blow heat on mine for a couple of days and it will do fine for a while. Did it today and hasn't rained for more than a week?
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check to see if its getting fuel ok.. shoot a little starting fluid in the air cleaner and see if it will start .. if so its not getting enough fuel its either the pump or the filter puggin off. thanks Jerry
put the ignition lights on and open the bonnet on the right hand side there is a silver casing put ur ear to it if there is not any noise coming from it then the engine is not getting any fuel u need to have it checked for a electrical current this is a main fault on the galaxy and ford should be able to fix it for you.
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First get the new part and also a new belt.,small tube of blue lok-tight..Use safety glasses and work on cold engine..You can also disconnect negative cable from battery for safety in case you drop a tool on alternator and create an arc that could blow a fuse or worse..set parking brake and in park...Look at belt configuration and draw your own picture of the routing...However you should have a small sticker under hood that shows you the correct routing...You will need a good long slim Ratchet to remove belt and tensioner.also regular socket set with short well metric sockets..They make a special slim tool to remove and install belt..It makes it a lot easier...Remove belt...,remove tensioner...Pay close attention how tensioner sets in place..Install new tensioner in same position..use blue lok-tight on bolt threads to mount tensioner..torque it tight but not too tight,,.Install new belt.,Make positively sure belt sits in all grooves of all pulleys while routing..Double check routing again to make sure belt is perfectly set in all pulleys..Tug on belt with hand to make sure all is good and fit....Make sure all tools are removed from under hood before starting engine .......Start engine to verify all is correct...
Sorry but this does indeed have a tensioner pulley. I just replaced an alternator on my 2005 ford freestar, I did this without adjusting said pulley. There are 3 bolts on the alternator, install new alternator with only one bolt, put the belt over the alternator pulley, use a piece of metal to pry the alternator into place and drop in second bolts when in correct position. (I used a a piece of iron flatstock. Took 15 mins from start of project till the end.
Click on the following free direct Link. It has the correct Serpentine/Drive Belt Diagram for your 2004 Ford Freestar. You either have the 3.9L or 4.2L V6 Engine. I am not sure what Engine options (AC/No AC, etc.) you have. If this Diagram is not correct: check on the underside of your Hood for the correct Belt Diagram. However the below "How To" remains accurate.
"HOW TO": Standard Rules to Removal the Serpentine Belt with an Automatic Tensioner: 1. Find the Tensioner(s). (See Diagram on Link) 2. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool, Or Wrench OR Ratchet, Rotate/Move the Tensioner USING THE AVAILABLE NUT (on the Pulley or Arm Base) OR the OPENING (3/8ths or 1/2 inch square opening) rotating the Tensioner Pulley/Arm - moving it away from contact with the belt and towards the area where the belt is not in contact with the Tensioner Pulley. The Tensioner is spring loaded, and is hard to rotate/move. 3. Remove the loosened belt off one of the other more easily accessed Pulleys. 4. DO NOT quickly release the Tensioner, but gently allow the Tensioner to rest in its closed position.
Standard Rules for Installing the Serpentine Belt with an Automatic Tensioner: a. Pick a Pulley that is most easily accessed. This will usually be on top. This will be the last Pulley that the belt will go on. b. Using the Diagram: Install the new Serpentine Belt on the remainder of the Pulleys....over, under, left right. c. Using a Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool or Wrench or Ratchet Tool: Rotate/Move the Tensioner Pulley/Arm "away" from Belt contact area on the Tensioner. This spring is pretty hard and with a new belt, it will be even harder to install. Rotate/Move this to as-close to the maximum allowed inorder to have enough slack in the belt to get it up and over the last pulley. d. Using your other hand - Pull the Belt up and over the Last remaining Pulley. e. Before releasing the pressure on the Tensioner, visually inspect the remainder Pulleys and the Belts' Positioning on them. Let me know if this helped, or if you have additional information questions. Feel Free to contact me at FixYa.com!
Don't know if this helps. Had squeel in belt area. Occasionally engine would stop when squeel got loud and sometimes engine would try to quit while going at various speeds. Found tensioner pulley was bad and changed it. Still squeeled and engine would stop when squeel got loud. This time while sitting in yard. Further checking found binding in power steering pump. Will be putting on new one tomorrow. Hope it works. Will update.