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Replace it as a unit. Strut, spring, strut mount all in one. It's called a quick strut. Raise car by the body not the wheel. Remove brake line (1 bolt) from strut lower. Remove 2 large bolts holding lower strut end. In the trunk 3 smaller bolts hold the strut mount (upper end) in place. DO NOT remove the single large nut at the top of the strut assembly. Wiggle the strut assembly out. Slide the new strut assembly in bolt it back in. Put wheel back on. Done.
You have to remove the struts from the car. Place the struts on a compression tower to relief pressure from spring. Once spring is compressed take of the top bolt on the strut which holds on the strut mount. After strut mount nut is off, loosen the springs tension and replace it with the new coil spring you are planning one using. Tighten the spring with mount back on and tighten bolt. then reinstall on car.
You need to have a floor jack and a couple of jack stands. Two bolts hold the strut to the rear wheel/brake assembly and I believe it is one bolt in the trunk. I changed mine about 3 years ago. You shouldn't need any special tools for this. You should have a 4 wheel alignment performed after the struts are replaced. The two bolts on the wheel assembly control the camber of the tire, I would recommend that you look at where the old bolts were when you tighten the bolts down for the new strut.
Rear struts usually have a large bolt on the bottom and 3 little bolts on top, to allow removal. But then you need special spring compressor clamps to take the tension off the coil spring, so that the top of the strut can be safely removed. Careful, because the springs can be very dangerous. You remove the top from the strut by undoing the large center nut. If the shaft turns with the nut, use a small wrench on the flats in the end of the shaft. Once the top is off, then you remove the spring. The strut tube then has a cap retaining the insert cartridge that needs to be removed and replaced with a new one. Reverse the rest.
Rent a spring compressor before you start removing the old
struts and putting on the new ones. You can rent a spring compressor at
any auto store. You can also buy one, but if you are only going to use
the compressor once, it's best to simply rent it. Jack up the car and
remove the tire. Then place one jack stand on the side you are working on.
Loosen the two lower bolts that hold the brake line to the
strut you want to remove. Remove the cap covering the top of the strut,
and while holding the coil over the strut, remove three nuts. Pull out
the cover to the strut assembly.
Tighten the spring using the spring compressor and remove the
nut at the top of the strut. Decompress the spring, and the strut will
be freed from the spring. Remove the front strut.
Put in the new strut and bolt it back up. Replace the tire. You now have the old strut removed and the new one in place.
Repeat Steps 1 through 4 when removing and replacing the rear strut.
those should be struts on that and the top strut bolts are inside the trunk under the carpet. follow the strut tower to the top look in the trunk in that area should be 3 bolts. jack up that side nice and high with floor jack and use a jack stand for safety and to stabalize it let jack down some to put some weight on stand. then remove 3 bolts in trunk this will get the top loose. now you need to follow the strut tower to bottom of strut should be 2 bolts you may need an impact wrench or good long breaker bar for these are large bolts and i dont know what kind of strength you have. next take it to a shop to have them pull spring out of strut and put onto new strut. put back on your better off doing both sides at the same time then do an alignment. or your tires will be eaten to about nothing in a few months. now if you realy want to pull the spring off yourself you will need spring compressors they come in pairs. one goes on the top area of spring to compress it put the other same area but opposite side. must be damn careful if not done right you will loose an eye. and they hurt like the dickens. lol good luck.
Hello, and welcome to FixYa. I'll be glad to help you out.
When you had the struts replaced, one of two things happened.
one - the rear strut retention bolts were not tightened up properly at the tops of the struts
two- the top supports on the struts were not replaced. Whenever we change the struts, we always replace the top supports. More than likely, this is your problem. The rear strut supports are notorious for wearing out, and, when they do, they make loud banging noises.
2004 Camry rear support part numbers:
I would suggest replacing the top supports to cure your problem.
First you must remove the rear seat to gain access to the top strut mounts. The bottom of the rear seat comes out first. On the 91 model there are two tabs at the base of the seat bottm that you pull forward to release the seat bottom. I'm not sure if the 89 is the same. After removal of the rear seat bottom, you will see a bolt at the bottom of each side of the rear seat back that need to be removed. Fold down the arm rest and disconnect the vinyl cover at the base of the armrest to expose and remove two screws. Push up on the rear seat back to unhook three plastic hooks (center and one at each end) at the top of the rear seat back. Remove the seat back. Remove the large metal support panel that is behind the seat back. Safely jack up the rear of the car and support on jack stands so the rear wheels hang free. Doing one strut at a time, remove the two top strut mount bolts leaving the center strut stud nut in place. The strut and mount will lower out of the unibody. Disconnect the bottom strut mount. Remove the strut/coil spring assembly. Using a strut/spring compressor (some auto parts stores rent these) compress the spring. Carefully remove the top strut stud retaining nut, top strut mount, bumpers and strut boot. Carefully install compressed spring, strut boot, bumpers and top strut mount on new strut and install washer and retaining nut. Reinstall strut and etc. in reverse order.
I just did that a few weeks agon on my daughter's 2004 Stratus Sedan. Same passenger side rear! The original factory part was **** and fell to pieces. The new parts are greatly improved. Buy two (2) because you will need one for the other side in the near future.
You will need a coil spring compressor for this job, some metric wrenches/sockets, and something to hold the top stud of the Strut when you loosen the nuts. I think the nuts inside the trunk are 15 mm and the big one at the bottom of the strut is 18 mm.
Check out moparpartsamerica.com/schematics/p/pm01495.gif for a great exploded view of the entire strut top to bottom. Go to the Auto Zone Web site and look up your struts and print the inspection and repair/replacement topics. Check the strut closely before you decide to put it back in, particularly if they have a lot of miles on them. I plan to replace all four struts next summer on my daughter's car.
I reused the old strut, but you need to decide if it is a good time to put new struts on for yourself. This would be a great time to do it if you need them. Look closely at the rubber bushings at the top of the strut and buy a new set if they are not really solid. I bought new ones when I did it.
Start inside the trunk by pulling back the trunk liner to expose the top of the strut and mounting bolts for the broken bracket. Spray all the nuts/bolts at top and bottom of the strut with liquid wrench a few times. Remove the two (2) outside nuts first. You will need a special socket to hold the end of the strut stud while you turn the nut off. I used a big pair of Vice Grips on the flats, but use the socket if you can get one.
That big bolt & nut that attaches the bottom of the strut will take some effort to remove. Use the coil spring compressor to take the load off that bolt before you try to remove it. The suspension component to the left of that bolt will need to be unbolted and lowered for the strut bolt to be removed. Good Luck!