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What does the hold light in hyundai h1 mean

Engine stall then shut down while driving car starts but shuts off when put into drive gear

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Saaboheme
  • 76 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 saab 900 turbo

Two most common problems for this are the DIC and the fuel pump. Can also be the CPS. First check the code. You can try this first before going to a code reader: 1.With the car already off, switch on the ignition without starting the engine. 2. After approx. 6 seconds, the 'Check Engine' light goes out for an instant before lighting up again for 3 seconds. This 3 second flash is a warning that the actual flashing code is about to start. 3. The flashing code consists of a number of short flashes lasting 0.4 seconds. The 'Check Engine' light goes out for 2 seconds between each new flashing code (if there is more than one fault). 4. After the last flashing code, the 'Check Engine' light goes out for 3 seconds before lighting up again for 3 seconds, after which the flashing codes are repeated. Readout continues in this way as many times as you wish. Number of flashes / Function 2 / Manifold absolute pressure sensor 3 / Temperature sensor, manifold 4 / Temperature sensor, coolant 5 / Throttle position sensor 6 / Oxygen sensor 7 / Adaptation 8 / Purge valve (EVAP valve) 9 / ECM, internal fault If no flashing codes display, the problem is something else (other than those nine listed above) and must be determined using a generic code reader that supports OBD 1, or using the GM/Saab Tech II code reader and programmer. My money is on the DIC as it is a very common failure component and fuel pump failures rarely throw a code. The DICs are good generally to 100,000 to 150,000 miles, but this varies wildly, especially if the car is run with overgapped plugs for any length of time. The plug gap should be 1 mm and no more. Cars that are scrupulously maintained vis-a-vis the plug gapping can see DICs last over 200,000 miles.

Posted on Jun 10, 2009

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  • 23 Answers

SOURCE: car stalling while accelerating

it sounds like you need to inspect your spark plug wires and spark plugs. if they are ok it could be your coil

Posted on Aug 08, 2009

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: Engine shut down while driving.....

needs a new alternator, going down the hill, your RPM's dropped and all of the draw on from the electrical system came from the battery, and caused the battery to die too

Posted on Aug 14, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: car starts but shuts off

Replace the crank sensor. This happen to me

Posted on Sep 16, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Engine shuts down when put into gear.

my 95 lincoln towncar had same problem, nobody could figure it out. turned out to be the crankshaft sensor, not expensive(19.00) but had to drop the ac compressor to change it

Posted on Aug 29, 2010

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2005 Suz. Swift The engine light blinks when I am driving, then my car will sputter, and stall completely. I usually can shut the car off and turn it back on and it will run. What's wrong? Thanks!


blinking check engine light means -requires immediate attention the computer found a problem with vehicle that can cause damage if continued to run or drive --some codes will shut down vehicle to a limp mode or the problem can cause shut down ----have code read most auto stores offer this for free the code will give you a start point towards repairing your vehicle

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Ssangyong Kyron 2007 shuts down when driving


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2001 elantra stalls, loos of power, check engine line on.


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1996 mercedes c280 dies when put in drive


Engine stalls or RPM fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.

This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control

Oct 15, 2012 | 1996 Mercedes-Benz C-Class

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1996 Dodge Neon. When the motor gets hot, the car shuts down as though it's not getting fuel. When it cools down it will start up again and run until it gets hot. The air bag light comes on sometimes and...


The easiest thing to check first is the body ground cable, is it there, is it loose, is it broken? take it off, clean the connections and reinstall it. Do the dash lights or interior lights go out when the engine dies? What do you mean that the speedometer doesn't work right? Does it bounce, Bang going into reverse intimates it has an automatic transmission, and you are driving the car when it shuts down. Des the transmission do anything strange while driving? If driving and the engine shuts down, does the car come to a stop somewhat slowly or abruptly? If abruptly, it may be the transmission going into two gears, stalling the engine.
It is most likely an electrical problem that needs more diagnosis. Is this a rust belt car, is there rust under the fuse box or where wires go from front to back in the car, or in the driver or passenger side firewall or floorboard? Does it make any difference if the headlights or parking lights are on or off? Does the car have air conditioning, if so does it make a difference if it is on or off?
It may even be the ECU quitting when hot, does the problem go away, or take longer to happen if you put an ice pack on the ECU?

Changing spark plugs "and all that" fixed this man's car.

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Yes, most likely a fault in the auto transmission, and the car has shut itself off to prevent further damage.

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Car will start fine but will shut off as soon as I place in gear.


Here are the most common causes of surges, stalls at stops, low erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation, it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

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