Question about Cars & Trucks
Engine stall then shut down while driving car starts but shuts off when put into drive gear
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of.(from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones)
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 1995 saab 900 turbo
Two most common problems for this are the DIC and the fuel pump. Can also be the CPS. First check the code. You can try this first before going to a code reader: 1.With the car already off, switch on the ignition without starting the engine. 2. After approx. 6 seconds, the 'Check Engine' light goes out for an instant before lighting up again for 3 seconds. This 3 second flash is a warning that the actual flashing code is about to start. 3. The flashing code consists of a number of short flashes lasting 0.4 seconds. The 'Check Engine' light goes out for 2 seconds between each new flashing code (if there is more than one fault). 4. After the last flashing code, the 'Check Engine' light goes out for 3 seconds before lighting up again for 3 seconds, after which the flashing codes are repeated. Readout continues in this way as many times as you wish. Number of flashes / Function 2 / Manifold absolute pressure sensor 3 / Temperature sensor, manifold 4 / Temperature sensor, coolant 5 / Throttle position sensor 6 / Oxygen sensor 7 / Adaptation 8 / Purge valve (EVAP valve) 9 / ECM, internal fault If no flashing codes display, the problem is something else (other than those nine listed above) and must be determined using a generic code reader that supports OBD 1, or using the GM/Saab Tech II code reader and programmer. My money is on the DIC as it is a very common failure component and fuel pump failures rarely throw a code. The DICs are good generally to 100,000 to 150,000 miles, but this varies wildly, especially if the car is run with overgapped plugs for any length of time. The plug gap should be 1 mm and no more. Cars that are scrupulously maintained vis-a-vis the plug gapping can see DICs last over 200,000 miles.
Posted on Jun 10, 2009
needs a new alternator, going down the hill, your RPM's dropped and all of the draw on from the electrical system came from the battery, and caused the battery to die too
Posted on Aug 14, 2009
my 95 lincoln towncar had same problem, nobody could figure it out. turned out to be the crankshaft sensor, not expensive(19.00) but had to drop the ac compressor to change it
Posted on Aug 29, 2010
Tips for a great answer:
Jan 01, 2016 | Cars & Trucks
Aug 28, 2015 | Cars & Trucks
Jan 03, 2015 | 1993 Nissan Maxima
Feb 09, 2014 | 2007 SsangYong Kyron 2.0D
Dec 14, 2013 | 2001 Hyundai Elantra
Engine stalls or RPM
fluctuates at idle up and down or dies near idle.
This problem is commonly caused by a dirty automatic idle speed control valve and throttle valve but always run a OBD2 fault code as well as the cleaning procedure. Buy a can of throttle valve cleaner (do not use carburetor spray cleaner!) from NAPA or Carquest (made by CRC chemicals) and spray it into the air intake while the engine is running, use up about 1/2 the can, engine will try to stall hold the speed up, shut it down and let it soak for 30 minutes, restart and blow out the remaining fluid, shut it down and disconnect the negative battery cable for 5 Min's to reset the base idle control
Oct 15, 2012 | 1996 Mercedes-Benz C-Class
Jul 01, 2017 | Dodge Neon Cars & Trucks
Aug 03, 2009 | 1997 Cadillac DeVille
Mar 30, 2009 | 1991 Chevrolet Cavalier
Dec 13, 2017 | Nissan Cars & Trucks
71 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!
Step 2: Please assign your manual to a product: