Question about 2006 Toyota RAV4
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: toyota rav 4
I work for Toyota, and I will be glad to provide you with the actual answer:
The RAV/4 product is available in two models, a 4WD model and a 2WD model.
The difference between the two is on the 2WD model, there is no driveshaft going under the vehicle to the rear wheels, and no rear differential. There is no "RAV/2"; both models are called RAV/4's.
There is a lot of common confusuion about how the 4WD works. It is full time 4WD. In other words, it is always in 4WD. It does not "kick in/kick out/automatically engage", or anything like that. It is 4WD all of the time. But, when I say "4WD", that is sometimes mistaken for "all wheel drive", and, in this case, the RAV/4 is not "AWD". What this means is that if you raise the RAV/4 up on a lift, and put it in gear, 1 rear and the other side front tires will spin. True "all wheel drive" would have ALL 4 wheels spinning. This is not the case with the Rav/4. What the RAV does have, making up for not having "True AWD" on the 5 speed model, however, is a switch that locks the center differential in the transfer case, which, when engaged, applies a method of "locking" the 4WD system for maximum traction, but it is still not AWD. The automatic version doe not have this ability.
The last "true AWD" vehicle for purchase was a 1970's International Scout.
If you are considering purchasing a RAV/4, that is a very good investement. They hold their value quite well, and are virtually bulletproof; I do not make any "money" off my RAV/4 customers...
Just "gas station work". Very nice cars. I hope that this helps you, please feel free to comment back with any otherr questions...Glad to be of assistance.
Posted on Oct 17, 2008
SOURCE: toyota rav 4
I can get you a diagram on monday but it goes from the alternator to the power steering pump then around the tensioner pulley then around the crank pulley then to the a/c compressor then pull on the tensioner to give you some slack and slip it on the waterpump.I hope that helps.Let me know if you still need the diagram
Posted on Nov 30, 2008
try unbolting the light housing end removing it as a whole you will be able to get at it alot easier and you can take it up through the top
Posted on May 30, 2009
I had the same problem. A computer check showed that the emission system was having difficulty. The catalytic converter had to be replaced. The car had under 80,000 miles on it so it was covered by a warranty (State law? Federal law?).
My battery was also dead. That was replaced free too. It had a 7 year warranty.
I do NOT purchase extended warranties.
Posted on Jun 26, 2009
Open the trunk and along the bottom of the tail light, there should be a Philips screw securing a cover piece. (your car may or may not have this piece)
With the cover off, there will be another 2 screws securing the bottom of the tail light assembly. Remove the screws and pull the bottom out and the top is held in by two retainers that should just slide right out
Posted on Oct 13, 2009
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