Question about 2006 Ford Explorer
Have replaced 5 coil pakcs and i still get a random misfire. I have 133.000 miles and had the plugs done around 85000 miles.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Hesitation and stumbling.
Before you do that, check which thermostat it has in it, if it has one that is letting it get too warm or not completely up to temp when the computer think it should be, it would cause this. My 2000 crown vic did the same thing and thats what it was.
Posted on Jul 20, 2009
SOURCE: diagram of spark plug
Check this for 4.6 or 5.4 sizes engine...
2004 Ford Expedition 4.6 liter V-8 VIN "W"
2004 Ford Expedition 5.4 liter SOHC V-8 VIN "L"
Hope this help (remember comment and rated this).
Posted on May 05, 2010
Testimonial: "thanks for the info. I worked like a charm"
i would check the plug wires and the coils you check the plug wires for bad spots at night start the motor up and look at the plugs if you see a spark arch out the wire and to a peace of metal then the plug wires need to be replace.
Posted on Dec 16, 2010
Hi, the first step I recommend is to check for spark. You can do this by starting the car and then carefully pulling up the boot to the #1 ignition wire at the coil. If sparks are jumping inside the boot, you have spark and the ignition system is working.
1. Ignition: If there is no spark, shut of the engine and use an ohmmeter to check the impedance of the coil. Take the boot off, and connect your ohmmeter from the coil terminal to the engine ground. The resistance should be around 10-20 kohms. If not, replace the coil. If yes, the problem is the ignition module under the coil.
Now, assuming you have spark (which I believe you do, because the coil runs 2 cylinders, and you only have one cylinder that is misfiring), the problem will be a lack of compression or a bad injector (or possibly the injector wiring).
Note: I will provide repair steps once the troubleshooting is complete and the problem identified.
Also, if you do not have a multimeter, you can get one for $10-20 at radio shack or even Walmart. It will save you money overall--or maybe you have a friend that you could borrow a meter from.
2. Injector: The next easiest test to run is to see if the injector solenoid is clicking. You can do this by holding a long screwdriver to the injector and hold the other end of the screwdriver to your ear. With the engine running, you should hear the injector clicking. If not, you have a bad injector or a wiring problem. To determine whether the problem is the injector or the wiring, pull the connector off the injector and measure the AC voltage in the connector with the engine running. The voltage should be 1-2 volts or similar to that voltage of any other injector connector.
If the voltage is good, but the injector is not clicking, replace the injector.
3. Valves/compression: the last possible reason for a misfire is a lack of compression. The intake valve must open to accept a fuel/air charge, and both valves must be closed for the cylinder to fire. Sometimes an exhaust valve will burn and not hold compression. A blown head gasket can also cause this problem. The test we use to check the valves is a compression test. You can borrow or purchase a compression tester if you get to this point. Remove a few of the spark plugs including the cylinder that is misfiring. Screw the compression tester into the spark plug hole and crank the engine for a few revolutions. Record the pressure on the gauge, release the pressure, and go on to the next cylinder. If the pressure is much lower on any cylinder as compared to the highest cylinder, the cylinder head will have to be removed to correct the issue.
Please let me know the results of your troubleshooting and feel free to ask questions as you go.
Posted on May 20, 2011
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