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I HAVE A SNAP ON EEWH305A tire changer that leaks out the front exh filter on the turntable cylinder valve when the wheel clamps are in the in position, what are the common issues?

Posted by Anonymous on

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: WHEEL CYLINDERS LEAKING

not a hard job, but like all things you better know what your doing. Replacing the wheel cylinders is easy but then you need to bleed the brake system of air bubbles. There are plenty of sources for this so just do some research. I have found the brake system weak on my 2000 caravan, so I need to do some research on better components.

Posted on Aug 04, 2008

j_del
  • 1586 Answers

SOURCE: Front wheel discs red hot after driving

They're turning hot because you clamped off the rear lines. Now the fronts are being overworked - they're heating up because they're doing 100% of the stopping instead of the usual 70% or so. Replace the line and bleed the system before you destroy your entire braking system.

Posted on Aug 26, 2008

  • 206 Answers

SOURCE: Front driver side wheel is leaking brake fluid all

Front brakes if they are disc it is a caliper if they are drum you havve wheel cylinders. Call the parts store give them the year and they will get you the right part

Posted on Apr 07, 2009

mkv0525
  • 358 Answers

SOURCE: Tire Leaks at Valve Stem

not just chrysler, there are many wheels from manufactures that have the same type of problems. chances are they will not help you.

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: rear wheel brake lock-up

1995 Monte Carlo rear tires locked up ,goes into gear but wont move?

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

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What does service b mean


The A service and B service is an oil change and a long list of inspections. Unless the service is covered under warranty, or this is a new car and you want some piece of mind, I suggest only getting the oil change. The rest of the "service" consists of someone looking for problems with your car. Here's what's included:

A SERVICE (~ $205.95 + tax) :

- Inspect and record tread depth, and correct tire pressure
- Rotate tires (excludes AMG, Sports Models, SLK, and vehicles with staggered wheels)
- Engine oil change and oil filter replacement
-Includes Mobil 1 synthetic oil
- Lubrication service
- Includes hood hinges, lock cylinders, striker
plates, sun roof tracks and top off all fluids
- Cooling system inspection
- Includes antifreeze protection level, hoses and
clamps
- Brake inspection
- Includes check of pad thickness and condition of
discs, fluids and lines
- Inspect heating and ventilation dust filter, replace if needed. (Replacement additional. Dust filter prices vary by model)
- Function check
- Includes warning lamps, headlights, exterior
lights, seat belts, windshield wiper and washer
- Inspect and lubricate throttle linkage
- Check and clean air filter
- Reset flexible service system counter


B SERVICE (~ $379.95 + tax) :

- Inspect windshield wiper inserts and service windshield washer system (Replacement of wiper inserts additional*).
- Inspect and rotate tires, record tread depth, and correct tire pressure. (Wheel balance additional*).
-excludes AMG, Sports Models, SLK, and vehicles
with staggered wheels
- Engine oil change and oil filter replacement
-Includes Mobil 1 synthetic oil
- Lubrication service
- Includes hood hinges, lock cylinders, striker
plates, sun roof tracks and top off all fluids
- Cooling system inspection
- Includes antifreeze protection level, hoses and
clamps
- Brake inspection
- Includes check of pad thickness and condition of
discs, fluids and lines
- Inspect heating and ventilation dust filter, replace if needed. (Replacement additional*. Dust filter prices vary by model)
- Function check
- Includes warning lamps, headlights, exterior
lights, seat belts, windshield wiper and washer
- Inspect and lubricate throttle linkage
- Check and clean air filter
- Reset flexible service system counter
- Inspect front axle ball joints; check steering play and power steering clutch; and rear differential levels
- Inspect Poly V-Belt for condition
- Inspect starting and charging system and service battery
- Inspect climate control refrigerant

Feb 12, 2013 | Mercedes-Benz C-Class Cars & Trucks

Tip

How to reprime your diesel truck after a fuel filter change


If you just about kill your battery or starter after you change your fuel filter trying to get it started again so much so that you put off changing it when you should Here is a much simpler way and should only cost you about 30 bucks and an hours time and can be done with simple hand tools

first obtain a small low pressure fuel pump that operates off 12volt
then your gonna need a foot or two of fuel hose and some clamps
your also gonna need two hose barbs that screw into the fuel pump

now locate the fuel lift pump on your engine most models it's low on the front left side(note: if your model has a internal fuel pump located inside of the fuel tank stop right here you don't need to do this ) locate the steel line comming from lift pump to the filter/heater unit
using a tube cutter cut this line in a place thats accessable to your fingers and not on a curve or bend cut a piece of fuel line thats long enough to connect the fuel pump into the gap you have made use the hose barbs on the pump side and just clamps on the steel line side (Note : deburr edges of steel line before sliding hose over them using a small file) affix the hose clamps on all connections to keep them from comming off

the wire's comming from the new fuel pump should be long enough to reach the trucks battery terminals (observe polarity) if not extend them with a few scrap's of wire

now your ready to change the filter
unsrew the old filter carefull to not spill too much fuel over the exh manfolds
using a dab of fresh fuel lube the o-ring seal on new filter and spin it on tighten about a half turn after the o-ring contacts the housing
now using a bike tire valve tool (shrader) loosten the vent valve on filter unit (middle brass valve) and connect the wire's of your new pump to the battery (do not start truck yet) wait untill all the air bubbles are out of the vent valve and slowly tighten the vent valve again using bike tire tool (electric pump is still running ) now disconnect the wires to new fuel pump
and tuck them out of the way (the new pump stay's in place untill next use)

start truck as normally and idle for a few minutes

your done and your battery's not near dead and your starter is not boiling hot simple.

on Dec 02, 2009 | Ford F-350 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Proportioning valve 1988 f350


The reason is, you have a rear anti lock brake system. The anti lock valve is located on the frame just underneath the brake master. It is called a RABS valve. Almost impossible to bleed. But it can be done. A dealer has a tool that plugs into the RABS valve which activates the valve constantly moving the valve back and forth. This will then push all fluid and air out of your open bleeder screws in the rear.
I did'nt go to the dealer. i was too stubborn. My solution was to lift the rear of the truck and place on jack stands. Pinch off the rubber brake hoses on the 2 front brakes with a C-clamp or non marring vise grips, this will keep all fluid from going to front brakes. Next adjust the rear brake shoes by tightening the adjuster on the rear brake drums. Tighten the brakes on the rear until the brakes start to drag and the tires no longer spin freely by hand. Attach a bleeder hose to the bleeder screw on the RABS valve, place open end of hose into a jar or canister of brake fluid, so as not to draw in any air. Open the bleeder screw. Start the vehicle up, put it in gear, and let the rear tires spin. (I got up to 25mph on my speedometer) Step on the brake while it is in gear and the tires are spinning. This will activate the RABS valve and cause the air in the RABS valve to bleed. Do this several times. Put vehicle in park, shut off engine, and close the bleeder on the RABS valve. Attach bleeder hose to right rear of the truck, place open end of hose in a canister or jar of brake fluid so no air gets in and open the bleeder screw. Start the vehicle up, put it in gear, and let the rear wheels spin freely. As the wheels spin, you press your foot on the brake pedal, this will activate the RABS valve, and effectively bleed the brakes. Do this a dozen or so times, tighten the bleeder screw and do the other side. Remove clamps from front brake hoses and you will be go to go. All this may seem a bit extreme, but it is the only effective way to bleed a Rear Anti Lock Brake System on an early Ford. All the steps I laid out are necessary. You cannot skip one. The reason why the rear has to be in the air, is that there is a sensor mounted to the rear differential that senses wheel spin(or axle spin), this goes directly to the RABS valve and tells it that the tires are moving at a certain speed, and to activate the Rear Anti Lock Brakes when the brake pedal is depressed. It will not activate if it does not sense movement. The reason for pinching off the front brake lines, is that there are needle valves in the master cylinder and they will send too much fluid to the front calipers, and stifle or hinder the amount of fluid needed to go to the rabs valve and ultimately the rear wheel cylinders. It seems like a lot, and it is, but I did it and it works. Good luck

Mar 29, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a clean 4x4 v6 pickup. It had the orig. brake master cylinder and obviously never had the brakes bled. It started using brake fluid like a bottle every 2 weeks. No caliper or wheel cylinder was...


suggest you "look" for fluid loss issue. fluid has to go somewhere right? either a bad rear wheel cylinder.which inside of rear tires will be wet with brake fluid..either passenger side or drivers side. or a bad brake caliper on the front.which will tell on itself by leaking fluid onto the ground when brakes are applied..brake fluid leaking will tell on itself by inspecting the inside of each tire,on the inside of the tires,front to rear. thank you for choosing fixya.com.

Apr 06, 2011 | 1990 Toyota Pickup

2 Answers

Which one is the exhaust valves


If your car has a V6 or V8 , the intake valves are between the heads ( inside ) and the exhaust valves are toward the outside . There could be 1 or 2 of each for every cylinder.

Feb 13, 2011 | 1999 Buick Century

1 Answer

What tools do i need to change the front brakes on the dodge caravan


Once the tire is removed you need a set of HEX sockets with ratchet and a C-clamp to compress the cylinders with one old shoe between the clamp and cylinder.Hope this helps..........Make sure to apply energ brake and block rear wheels front and back.

Sep 29, 2010 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

2 Answers

I need to replace the battery. How do I do this?


Hi!!

The battery is located in the fender, ahead of the right front tire. Te battery can be removed without reovint the tire, but removing it improves access.

Here is how to remove/replace the battery

Disconnect battery cables, negative first, then positive from remote terminals.

Remove air filter housing

Remove the two battery hold down clamp bolts and clamp.

Loosen right front tire lug nuts, rise the vehicle, support it w/jackstand and remove wheel.

Remove battery cover/splash shield from wheel well

Slide battery toward rear of vehicle and disconnect battery cables.

Remove old battery thru wheel opening and insert new one.

If helpful, click below

Apr 13, 2010 | 2003 Chrysler Concorde

1 Answer

Antilock brakes fade away


The anti-lock while hitting a bump (if it were a severe bump) could be kind of normal since one tire will be traveling at a different speed than the rest.
As far as the pedal slowly going to the floor and you have replaced the master cylinder one other solution would to check out the diverter valve. This valve actually seperates the front and rear braking systems. If it is malfunctioning that would cause the pedal to slowly go to the floor with constant pressure because the fluid would be leaking past the front/rear piston O rings.
One other cause would be a leak in the system, probably at one of the wheel cylinders. That would be noticeable with a wet spot on the inside of the tire.
Also, check that the vacuum canister is not leaking. If it is leaking you should be able to hear a 'hiss' coming from it when the brakes are applied.

Nov 05, 2009 | 1996 GMC Sonoma

2 Answers

Where is the fuel filter on a 2005 vw jetta


Under the right rear corner of undercarriage in front of the rear wheel, u will need to jack the car up to see it..

Jun 08, 2009 | 2005 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

Bottom wheel of 2 of the front wheel cyclinder leaks


they need to be replace with new ones ,because it is cheaper on the long run,
I did it my self and have to do it again,so now i always instal new ones.

Feb 19, 2009 | Plymouth Arrow Cars & Trucks

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