Question about 1989 Jeep Cherokee

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No pressure in radiator hose

Recovery tank boils over , new hoses, water pump, no apparant holes

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Replace the radiator cap....a cap rated at 15 psi will provide an additional 40 to 50 degrees of boil over protection a faulty cap will cause the engine to boil over even with a proper mix of coolant at 220

Posted on Dec 07, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Mike258
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SOURCE: what is the normal engine temp for a 1996 jeep grand cherokee?

Hi there iask,

I could call myself ianswer. My name is Mike. I've got a 91 wrangler that used to do the same thing.

With me it was an air pocket. The temp sensor responds to a heavy medium like water, not air. As an air pocket circulates and comes into contact with the sensor, your gauge will fluctuate.

I'm sure you checked the coolant levels already, but hear me out. What I'm suggesting is like chicken soup, it can't hurt, it can only help.

Just because a radiator looks full, doesn't mean it is. Air pockets can exist in the engine and heater core. We're going to get rid of any.

Checking the coolant level.

  • I know, you've been there, but I say this to everyone. First and foremost: BE SAFE!!! Wear safety glasses.
  • This should be done with the engine cool. Never open the coolant caps on a hot engine.
  • When you look in the radiator, do it from an angle, not directly in front.
  • Have a hose or a couple two liter bottles full of water available.
  • Take off the radiator cap. (Do not take off if engine is hot)
  • Is the water level low? If so, top it off.
  • Make sure the transmission is in either PARK or Neutral and set the parking brake.
  • Start the engine, put he HEATER and FAN on HIGH. Go back to the radiator..
  • Observe the water level in the radiator. If it drops, top it off again.
  • At first it should do nothing. The water will seem to just sit there. This is normal. The water in the engine is still cool. The thermostat is closed. As the water in the engine heats up, the thermostat will begin to open. When it does, you will notice the water level begin to surge up and down.
  • When the thermostat finally opens all the way, the water will start moving as it cycles through the system. You will be able to tell when this happens.
  • Does the water level drop at this point? If so, top it off while it's circulating. Adding water will close the thermostat. Be prepared to wait through the cycling two or three times until the water level remains constant during a cycling.
  • Make sure the heater is blowing hot air. Turn it off. wait a full cycle. Then turn it back on. Check another cycle for level drop.
  • When you don't need to add water any more, put the cap back on. Observe the temp gauge. Has it leveled off? If so, it was an air bubble and it's gone. If not, We go to phase 2.
Either way, let me know how it goes. If you have any other problems, click the ASK button.

Remember: Good things come to those who Rate.

Mike

Posted on Aug 06, 2008

  • 54 Answers

SOURCE: High oil pressure and oil leak around oil filter seal.

It sounds like the check valve in the oil pump either has some trash in it or has gone bad. If it's a two wheel drive I don't remember the oil pan being that hard to get off. You can then drop the pickup and oil pump and soak them overnight in some parts cleaner. That may solve the problem, if there's trash in it. But if you're going to go through that much trouble, an oil pump shouldn't be that much I'd just replace it. So the problem doesn't come back. Good luck.

Posted on Jun 01, 2009

m-sykes
  • 71 Answers

SOURCE: jeep overheating

your head gasket is gone....this will require a new gasket and the head to be skimmed.....dont be wasting money on anthin else

Posted on Aug 28, 2008

witmoz
  • 389 Answers

SOURCE: 1989 cherokee xj major overheating issue

you have to install a bypass filler in the smaller hose that comes off the thermostat housing,and fill it from there first with a hose,then fill the pressure bottle and start the motor and bleed the air out.To make it easier you can pull the upper rad hose and fill it first.

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

  • 19 Answers

SOURCE: I have a coolant leak. There are no busted hoses

check your water pump the thermostat housing, heater core all can leak and there are heater hoses

Posted on Jun 30, 2009

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Begin with the basics....
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My Chrysler Concorde 2000 3.2? Overheated and melted a hole in the water resivour tank,so we replaced that, it still got hot fast, so we replaced thermostat, then it started making a loud noise it sounds...


The whistling noise is steam. The problem is you never attacked the source of the problem. What you need to do now is drain your radiator completely at opening T-spicket at the bottom of the radiator. While you drain with engine off, run your water hose on top, to flush out the radiator. Then run to the Auto store and buy "radiator flush" -- follow directions. After flushing out the radiator flush, close the T-spicket, and fill with NEW anti-freeze. By enough to fill to the very top. Mix the anti-freeze with water per instructions to your environmental weather.
Buy a new radiator cap which could have caused the problem in the first place by not allowing the correct pressure to blow off. Being a 2000 car is a little early for radiator problems, but an incorrect anti-freeze solution causes radiators to fail prematurely.. Better to have more than less because anti-freeze keeps the radiator from corroding.
Your radiator never cooled the water sufficiently, and boiled much of the water out, hence it got so hot that it would melt the water tank. The Thermostat could well have been the cause because it got corroded from the inept ant-freeze mixture. Did you find rust on the Thermostat ? If so it was the case. If not the radiator has lost cooling either by low water or the cores have become plugged up, in that case you will need a new radiator. See if the flush loosens the rust within the cores before buying an expensive radiator. Check the water hoses if leaking cooling. Run the car allow the engine to become hot before accepting that your water hoses are fine. Because heat expand everything, and may not leak until after the expansion.

May 10, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

The car was overheating i checked all hoses and replaced the thermostat the radiator it still is ovrheating and the water is boiling in the overflow tank


Answer could be a faulty thermostat,or it could be a sign that your head gasket is about to blow ,or last of all your timing could be out of sync.

Answer 2 from Inventus: It means your cooling system is funtioning properly. In a system having a coolant recovery tank, coolant in the radiator is always up to the brim, hot or cold. There is negligible or no air space. When coolant in the radiator expands sufficiently due to warming from the engine, it will squeeze past the pressure cap's bottom seal and flow into the recovery tank. (If no provision for such expansion was present, the expansion would rupture the radiator or your hoses.) Only coolant within the radiator is under pressure, and because of this pressure (together with the elevated boiling point that the "anti-freeze" permits), it normally does not boil. But once past the pressure cap's bottom seal, the overflow is at atmospheric pressure and therefore boils.
This boiling is usually unnoticed after a short, i.e., local, trip because the cooler coolant already in the recovery tank quenches it. But after some highway driving the influx of more hot overflow heats up all the coolant in the recovery tank to the (unpressurized, i.e., "natural") boiling point.
As the engine cools when shut off, the contracting coolant in the radiator sucks back coolant from the recovery tank. Fluid in the recovery tank should never be below the "full hot" or "full cold" marks, lest air be sucked in.
-- BETTER ANSWER ==
Your cooling fans are not turning on. It is not normal for your overflow tank to boil like that. It is true that your radiator is overflowing into the reserve tank, but that means yourr adiaotor is boiling. Check for blown fuses or relays for your cooling fans. IF theya re fine. run your engine for about 15 minutes and drive. When you temp level is at normal operating temp open your hood with the engine runing and see if your fans are on. If they are, then you may have a bad thermostat or a plugged radiator, or a bad water pump. If the fans are not on, get your cooling fan switch replaced if your car has one. Check your temp sending sensor

Oct 30, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Water is comming out of a hole on the top center back side of the coolant recovery tank and not the Radiator cap overflow. What is the little 1/4 hole for is it a safety thing or what


You may have aproblem with you thermostat. The radiator cap is sealed and the recovery bottle is not if there is to much pressure in the system thats where it is going to come out. Let the vehicle warm up and squizze the upper radiator hose if there is pressure on it then the thermostat is stuck shut and coolant is being pumped into the radiator and can't get back out into the engine to circulate through the block and cool the engine.

Jan 21, 2011 | 1998 Chrysler Concorde

3 Answers

Engine taking up too much water (1 tank/100kms)


Normal 0 false false false MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-ansi-language:#0400; mso-fareast-language:#0400; mso-bidi-language:#0400;} I do not have expertise specific to Mitsubishi passenger cars, but I can offer some generic automotive engine advice.

At risk of oversimplifying, all that water is going somewhere and here are a few common culprits in increasing order of cost:

  1. A failing radiator cap.
    This is a sneaky problem but is cheap and easy to fix! The radiator cap serves to keep the coolant in the engine under pressure, and that pressure raises the boiling point. If the cap is slowly failing, the coolant can quietly boil away in much the same away as water left in a pot on a hot stove with little or no evidence, other than reports from the temperature gauge or light. You can take your radiator cap to a mechanic for pressure testing, but replacements are available at most parts stores for very little money. Note: you already know this, but NEVER OPEN A HOT RADIATOR OR RECOVERY TANK OR YOU WILL GET BURNED!
  2. A leak in the recovery tank, or between the tank and the engine.
    Troubleshooting requires getting under the car WHILE IT IS SHUT OFF AND PROPERLY SECURED and looking for obvious moisture. If you find a leak, it should be immediately obvious which component (e.g., tank, hose, etc.) needs repair or replacement. Tanks can be surprisingly expensive since manufacturers often mold them to fit each unique model of automobile. Note: plastic tanks often begin to crack where they connect to hoses or where exposed to greatest heat.
  3. Failing hoses.
    Since you are checking around the recovery tank anyway, carefully inspect all the engine hoses for damage, soft spots (healthy hoses should feel firm when squeezed, only a little softer than the inside of your forearm), or poor or leaking clamps. Hoses deteriorate most where they are hottest, where they make tight bends, and where they attach to other parts like the radiator or engine. Hoses are relatively inexpensive and are available at most parts stores.
  4. A failing radiator.
    Like caps, tanks, and hoses, radiators live a hard life of high pressure and heat, with the added bonus of being right out front where they can be hit by rocks, small animals, and other debris. If a radiator corrodes internally or has minor exterior damage it may begin to leak only when the engine is running and at normal operating temperature. With engine off and completely cool, open the radiator (if possible) or the recovery tank and inspect the coolant. If it shows evidence of foaming, rust-colored material, or sand-like grit, you probably have internal corrosion and need to replace at least your radiator and possibly the coolant hoses. If the coolant and inside of the radiator look clean, closely inspect the entire outside of the radiator for evidence of corrosion, usually appearing as greenish-, whitish-, or rusty-colored deposits, and most often found at hose fittings and joints where the radiator is braised together during assembly. You will also find deposits anywhere a pinhole leak exists. Again, if you find these symptoms, replace your radiator. Finally, run the engine up to normal operating temperature, shut it off, and closely inspect the exterior of the radiator for steam or wet spots.
  5. A failing water pump.
    When a water pump begins to fail it often "weeps" or leaks small amounts from a small drain hole in the pump body. With the engine hot (i.e., after running to normal operating temperature) BUT NOT RUNNING carefully examine the water pump for obvious signs of seepage both at the gasket where it connects to the engine and behind the drive pulley. Replacement pumps are widely available but can be expensive and challenging to install if you are not mechanically inclined.
  6. Failing engine seals or gaskets.
    OK, now we are into the hard stuff. Every part of your engine mates to other parts with thin gaskets. Most of the gasket surface is internal and thus not visible to inspection on an assembled engine. Cooling system gasket failures sometimes manifest by leaking into the engine directly and are thus very hard to detect. So, how do we diagnose an internal leak? If the coolant is leaking in very small quantities into the exhaust or the combustion chamber, you can sometimes see or smell the burned result at the tailpipe. If you are using conventional coolant (e.g., antifreeze, glycol, or ethylene glycol), the tailpipe emissions will smell very sweet and maybe obviously moist or even steaming, sometimes with liquid water dripping from the tailpipe. NOTE: this should be obvious, but AUTOMOBILE EXHAUST GASSES ARE TOXIC AND CAN CAUSE ILLNESS OR DEATH. DO NOT SPEND A LOT OF TIME INHALING EXHAUST GASSES just take a few whiffs. Another way to check for internal cooling system failures is to inspect the coolant after running the engine briefly but before it all leaks out. If the coolant has a slick of oil (a rainbow or black-oil effect), you have breached cooling and oiling systems and are exchanging fluids. Also, examine the oil on the engine dipstick; if it has a thick gray- or white-colored greasy or foamy layer that may or may not smell sweet you have an internal leak. Finally, have the cooling system pressure tested by a trustworthy mechanic. When the cooling system is open to much higher combustion chamber pressures it over-pressurizes the cooling system and will be immediately obvious in a pressure test. If you find that any of these symptoms apply to your situation, you are looking at an imminent catastrophic failure and should get the car to a mechanic immediately. If you continue to operate a vehicle in this condition, you will destroy the engine, and possibly cause a crash.


I hope this lengthy troubleshooting guide helps you solve your problem.


Good Luck!

Sep 01, 2009 | Mitsubishi Passenger Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Overheating and boiling in the overflow reserve tank


replace radiator cap system depends on good pressure to keep from overheating

Jul 27, 2009 | 2002 Mitsubishi Galant

1 Answer

Need to replace thermostat 2000 taurus


If it's the 3.0L Vulcan Engine (OHV), the thermostat is on the driver's side of the vehicle. Follow the upper radiator hose back to a metal area with three 10mm bolts. This is the thermostat housing. Undo the bolts, and there's the thermostat. Mark the back of it with the old thermostat in it (if you get one with a jiggle valve, it'll make it easier to put the new one in because the jiggle valve needs to be on top). The thermostat and housing aren't perfectly round, so you'll have to play with it a little to get it to line up. Make sure to change the gasket. The spring side of the thermostat goes into the engine.

The water pump is in the serpentine assembly. It's the larger pulley located toward the firewall. It'll be easiest to remove the water pump if you also remove the coolant recovery tank. The water pump pulley has four 1/2" bolts that you need to take out WITH THE BELT STILL ATTACHED. I can't stress this enough. The belt will keep the pulley in place so that you can remove the bolts. Take the pulley off, then the belt. Remove the heater hose at the top and the radiator hose at the bottom. There are 12 bolts of two diameters (1/2" and 10mm if I'm not mistaken). Tap the heater hose lightly with a soft-faced mallet to break the seal with the gasket. Trash the old gasket. Replace gasket (you can also line the mating surface of the water pump with RTV Sealant, put the new gasket on the new pump, and line the other side of gasket with a second coat of RTV sealant if you want a really good seal). Install the water pump and torque to manufacturer's specs. Attach the pulley to the water pump hand tight and put the belt back on. Tighten the pulley bolts. Put the coolant recovery tank back in place. Fill with coolant, start engine, bleed and check for leaks.

To bleed cooling system: Idle the engine until the thermostat opens (you'll be able to tell bacause the upper radiator hose will be uber hot and you'll feel coolant running through this hose). Squeeze all hoses in the system that you can reach, but don't burn yourself. Stop the engine and let it cool. Open the radiator cap and squeeze the COLD upper radiator hose. You'll see some bubbles in your recovery tank. You might have to monitor your coolant level for a couple of days while the final bits of air are purged through your radiator cap (that's why it's pressurized).

Hope this helps. It's not hard, but it took me quite awhile.

Mar 28, 2009 | 2000 Ford Taurus

2 Answers

Overheating ?


check to see if electric fans turn on in front of radiator

Jul 13, 2008 | 1996 Ford Contour

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