Question about 1997 Subaru Legacy

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97 Subaru legacy won't start and locks do not work. Battery is good and all fuses are fine.

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  • Andy Dec 06, 2012

    It will start if I use a wire to cross the starter and the solenoid?

  • scott aird Dec 06, 2012

    there should be a ground on the solenoid on one of the mounting bolts this may be broke try direct grounding it to the battery

  • Andy Dec 06, 2012

    The ground is good. There is no power to the solinoid from the ignition. Could this be linked with the door lock issue and a alarm?

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  • Expert
  • 74 Answers

Take your ground wire off the battery and clean it with a wire brush it sounds like a ground problem

Posted on Dec 06, 2012

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1989 subaru legacy 2wD 2.0 vz

Welllllllllll how do I say this without incriminating myself too much, after furiously mad panic stations on the sunday, it was decided that first thing monday it would be towed to the electricians! as my husband had concluded it was electrical this came after new battery fuses etc.. had been checked and many an hour spent under the bonnet.As we have a kill switch, which I had tried an still did not go also I reminded my husband of this and he screamed at me its not the bloody kill switch @#!*!!? ok, have a GREAT DAY! So come monday morning after getting up early to drop my husband off at work dressed only in my dressing gown jammies and socks and slippers I duly dropped him off and used our pajero for the day which I ended up having to put 10 dollars in. That night he returned home with the subaru and a receipt for work done I ( I had visions of hundreds of dollars worth) but noooooo $54.00 great ah! Cos it was the kill switch !!!!.
We will never speak of this again!!!!! It is often the simple things in life that we overlook? TeeHeeee.
Linda

Posted on Jun 09, 2008

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: No fuse box diagram

On the 1998 Legacy the Radio fuse is the fifth from engine, third from driver, on the bottom, 15A, and the Lighter is in the same long row on the top, 20A.

Posted on Jun 28, 2008

hondaman900
  • 40 Answers

SOURCE: !993 subaru legacy doors dont unlock

If it takes that much force to manually open the doors, and it's on the doors that are less used, then I'd bet it's a set of door locks and actuators in need of lubrication. 
Electric door lock actuators can easily be stopped or slowed down by resistance in the mechanism. This can be caused by corrosion, water getting into the door, and just old age and lack of use. I'd take the door panels off and take a peek. 
On the Legacy the panels pop off fairly easily. You'll need to pry them off carefully with a flat screwdriver. You'll feel where the fasteners are, where the panels are resisting coming off, and prise the panel gently and firmly at these points and they'll pop out. Once out you'll see the lock mechanism. 
Moving it by hand will tell if it's corroded or bound up. Apply some white litium grease to the mechanism, making sure to squirt/work it in, and then work the door handle/mechanism to get the lube into the linkage and actuators. Check the electrical contacts for corrosion while there and spray with WD-40 to protect them. This should free up the door mechanism and the actuators should then be able to do their job.
If after the above steps the electric actuators still don't work, use a voltmeter or circuit tester to check for 12V at the actuator when the door button is pressed. If you don't see any power, recheck that fuse and then the wiring back to the door harness. It's unlikely that this is the cause as its unlikely that you'd get only 3 out of 4 bad, but you never know in these old cars.
Hope this helps.

Posted on Dec 28, 2008

shadtremonky
  • 353 Answers

SOURCE: I had to change out the battery on a 2006 Subaru Legacy

cycle ignition on/off 3 to 5 times

Posted on Jun 20, 2009

  • 4088 Answers

SOURCE: '97 subaru legacy L,AWD wagon, 2.2L, auto trans.

Do you hear a 'click' when the key is turned to start? Have someone try the key while you listen under the hood. It should be the starter solenoid clicking. You need either a test light or voltmeter to test further. One large terminal on the solenoid has the large wire from the battery positive, and should always show voltage/light at all times. Test the other side of the solenoid (large terminal) that is connected to the terminal on the starter motor. It should show light/voltage when the key is turned. If it doesn't, the solenoid must be replaced. If it does show light/voltage, then the starter motor is defective (probably brushes). If you get no click when turning the key, test the small terminal on the solenoid, you should see a voltage/light change when the key is turned. If you see a change, but no click, the solenoid coil is open or the case of the solenoid is not grounding where it is mounted. Try loosening the mounting and re-tighten. If no help, replace the solenoid. If you see no change at the small terminal, remove the wire from it and using a spare piece of wire, touch the small terminal to, first, the large terminal that the battery is connected to, then to the the mounting bolt for the solenoid. If the solenoid is good, the starter should operate with one of these two tests. In that case, the starter position of key switch is open--replace the ignition switch.

Posted on Sep 15, 2009

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