Question about 2005 Nissan Xterra

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Torque converter need to know if I need a replacement or if I can flush the one I have

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  • Patrick Hildebrant Dec 06, 2012

    I have already replaced the valve body, to the tune of 1,110$, and have a rebulid kit for the trans. My concern is that the clutch inside of the converter my be fried. Is there a way to tell, or should I just replace???

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Take it to a transmission shop, To take it for a road test,There is no charge for that, End seewhat they stay the problem is, Take it to more then one place, To see what they stay the problem is with it, If they all cliam the same thing, Then replace it, That way you are not putting in something it didn,t need in the first place, Unless you have money to burn,

Posted on Dec 06, 2012

  • Patrick Hildebrant Dec 06, 2012

    I have a very reliable mechanic that is in the process of the rebulid. The guys at the dealership told me I shouldn't need to replace the converter, but I just don't know the inter-workings enough to say yes or no. The mechanic seems to think it needs replaced.

  • John Doe Dec 06, 2012

    If you trust him so much what are you asking for other people opinions for?

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Michael, If your vehicle is a normal automatic transmission it will have a torque converter. If you really want to attempt a complete flush, I will post links on how it is done, you will still have to change the filter to ensure a thorough job. Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
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Dear Matt: When you install the torque converter on the transmission, you need to spin the converter carefully by hand while pushing gently inward towards the transmission. As you are rotating the converter, you will feel kind of a "BUMP, BUMP, BUMP" as the converter splines meet up with and slide into place as they enter the torque converter. Once everything is properly seated, the converter should spin smoothly on the transmission without the need of supporting the end of the converter.
When you are installing the transmission, as you get close to mating the bell housing to the back of the engine, you can reach through the area where the starter nose would project into the bell housing and rotate the torque converter. As you are closing the gap between the transmission and the engine block, make sure that the torque converter can spin without any interference at all. Once the bell housing and block are mated flush you should still be able to easily spin the converter with a few fingers..........
You, at that point can align one of the converter bolt holes with the flex plate (flywheel) holes and put a bolt in by hand. DO NOT TIGHTEN ANY BOLTS UNTIL ALL THE BOLTS HAVE BEEN INSTALLED! At that point in time you can tighten the bolts.
The fact that you are experiencing the problem you have described, leads me to suspect that you don't have the torque converter fully seated. DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING! The converter, providing you did not try to bring the bell housing up flush in spite of the converter not moving, should be ok.
Good luck. If you make good, write in, I need some good reviews in this "Fixya" spot which I just joined. Right now I am listed as an apprentice. Kind of demeaning when you are nearly 60 and have been in the trade since 68. But, I have to pay my dues to get in and I must prove that I know which is my ????? and which is the hole in the ground. Good luck!

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