Question about 1995 Chevrolet Lumina
Sounds like an air leak need to know where all air lines are so I can check them
Typically this vehicle utilizes a map sensor or what is known as a speed density system the vac operated devices that draw enough to cause it to stall are the 1. brake booster 2. pcv system 3.any of the rest of them would cause a fluctuating idle but the pcm could compensate we know the idle air control system is working because the idle surges so i would first remove the fresh air hose from the throttlebody the dry dirt around the butterfly valve accumulates chocking the airflow off and causes a low idle this is known as coking and is very common also check for EGR codes if egr solenoids 1 or 1,2 or 2 or 3 are stuck open this will cause a low unstable idle or stall and the tps voltage at idle should be checked 3 wires 1 wire should be ground 0.v 2nd wire should have a 5v reference and third wire is what is known as signal return it should read at idle around .5v to 1.v if it is not in this range then it will cause the same symptoms
Posted on Dec 06, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It sounds like you may have a cloged fule filter, start with that and then check to see if your fuel pump had gone bad. Most likely it's your fuel filter if it's never been changed. The other common problems is a partial clog to the injectors but i don't think that is the problem here. Good luck
Posted on Apr 08, 2009
It sounds to me that you may have 2 problems. 1). Air Lock in the Heater Core. 2). Inactive Heat Damper in the Plenum.
But since you state that the Heater Hoses do not get warm that is indicative of an Air Lock in the Heater Core. This is a relatively simple fix. It is best performed COLD but requires a method of pressurizing the Cooling System. All reputable Auto Parts stores Sell and/or Rent Pumps that temporarily replace the Radiator Pressure Cap for Leak tests and curing Air Lock. The Collant Level must be filled FULL then pressurized and then loosening the Highest Heater Hose at the Firewall so that Air and a Small Amount of Coolant escapes. Once all the Air has escaped tighten the Heater Hose Clamp, remove the Pressure Pump, Restore the Collant Level to FULL, re-install the Pressure Cap and Start the Engine. As it Warms up you should be able to feel coolant running through the Heater Hoses and they should become warm.
Posted on Dec 07, 2009
You may two problems and one symptom. you may have a blend door problem that is not allowing air to circulate threw the heater core. also you may have a bad connection or weak coolant temp sensor showing you erratic readings and it may have nothing with the heat in the vehicle. you need to eliminate or separate the one of the the problems to diagnose your one symptom.
Posted on Feb 06, 2011
Replace the thermostat. After that, if problem persists, feel the radiator with engine at normal operating temp. If part of it feels cool, this would indicate a restricted radiator, Very common.Also purchase a block tester, available at napa or other reputable parts store for about thirty dollars. Follow directions, cheapest way to find head gasket breech into cooling system. Good luck!
Posted on May 12, 2011
Does your truck have ABS? If so you may have a bad brake
pressure modulator for the abs. Its the big box by the Master that says Kelsey-Hayes on it. You can pick up the complete unit from a salvage yard at a pretty reasonable price.
I also found this on another site. I know you said that you blead the Master but check this information out. The bleeding of a new Master Cylinder is very important to get it exactly right.
Posted on Jun 19, 2011
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