Question about 1996 Jeep Cherokee Sport
I changed plugs, oil, filter It was running until transmission went out. Thanx
Checked the fuel pressure ? Does it have a fuel filter you can replace?
Posted on Dec 07, 2012
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Not sure why the question is even being asked, but you can change the oil yourself in about 15 minutes; simply jack the front end, put a pan under the oil drain plug, open the plug, let it drain, put the plug back in, and add new oil.
Take it to any outlet that changes oil (Wal-Mart, for example, charges about $18, some places charge as little as $15) and they'll include a new filter because otherwise you're running new oil through an old filter, which defeats the idea of the oil change. You can ask them not to put on a new filter, but you'll still pay the base price.
My question is, why would you not want a new filter if you're changing oil.
Let me know if this answers your question.
Posted on Dec 10, 2008
Are you getting spark from coil wire when cranking? If so, check the cap & rotor. If not, the most common failure is the crank sensor. If you have a 4,0, you can find it on the drivers side of the bellhousing, in line with the flywheel, just where it's annoying to work on. There is a test you can make, but I don't have the specific test values or the correct terminals to check. (you can find that info in any half decent manual.
Posted on Jan 08, 2009
I'm going to guess since you didn't mention which fluid...Transmission?
First find out which unit you have (usually an id tag on it somewhere ) Then look up what kind and how much fluid in your owners manual (usually around four quarts...unit holds more but you can't remove it from the pan) Remove all pan bolts and lower pan. (some units have a drain plug, use it first if you have one ) you will see the filter attached to the valve body. remove it and install the new one, Make sure all gasket material is removed from pan and trans. Clean any metal etc from pan and internal magnet (there is always some in there but should not be a ton of it) Then put pan and gasket back. Make sure you can turn each fastener easily to make sure they are not cross threaded and only tighten them after they are all in there. Bolts do not have to be tightened down like they never should be removed again (snug then a little bit more)tighten in an X pattern not a circle.Replace about half of the fluid with car off, then put in remainder while running. Put your foot on the brake and shift to reverse then drive a few times then check fluid level.Low is bad, a tiny bit (less than half inch) over is OK.
Drive for a short ride, check again for leaks and re-tighten if any are found.
If trans was exceptionally dirty and yours has a drain plug, I recommend that you use a generic oil on the first change, then in a week, drain oil again and re-fill with good brand name stuff. and perhaps a bottle of lucas conditioner.
Posted on May 14, 2009
Buy some Marvel Mystery oil from Auto Zone and add it to you engine oil. Keep an eye on your engine oil level everyday with the Marvel in there and change the engine oil every 3000 miles. Hope the Marvel will clean out the lifters for you and the rest of the sludge in the engine. Do Not Use Engine Flush!!!! There know to eat the seals and kill engine sensors.
The EGR could also be stuck with carbon build up and may need to be cleaned or replaced. Try doing this, turn your radio off and disconnect the battery for a min, turn the ignition key to the run position and re connect the battery then start the liberty. That should reset the air idle control valve.
Let it idle down and then go for a test drive after it warms up. Good luck and keep me posted, while your at Auto Zone have them scan your liberty for any DTC codes. Be glad to help.
Posted on May 31, 2009
Yes I had the same problem. The wires that plug into the sensor at the catatytic converter were rubbing against the drive shaft untill they finally wore through causing the short against drive shaft. repaired wires and it fixed everything
Posted on Mar 25, 2010
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