Question about Jeep Grand Cherokee
Did shifts fine in all gears, but did not go into overdrive ; took transmission apart~ looks great; changed all filters and fluids; NOW after putting it back together it will Not Shift into Any Gear - waiting to be towed to transmisson shop - Could it just be a sensor? I read a post that just needed a $17 functional speed sensor. Could the computer need reprogrammed? When if ever woulod you need to disconnect the computer? I just bought it - it had been sitting for months; had some corroded rusty fuses and right tail light module which i replaced. put on new shocks, tie rods, rear brakes, all rotors and a sticking rear caliper. Also the passenger blower works but there is No Heat on that side.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
It's in limp home mode. You'll have to check wire connections and electronic controls. If it has a vacuum modulator you can remove it and look for trans fluid on the vacuum hose side (meaning ruptured diaphram). Double check the parts you replaced as well, especially if they were used parts. My dad went through three speed sensors in one year on his Caravan. You should drop the pan after checking other components. It could be a bad relay, shorted module or wire. The three speed transmissions are much more reliable than the four speed overdrive transmissions but with age and miles things can go wrong and parts will wear out.
Posted on Feb 07, 2009
oil pressure problem should be checked independently of other problems...Use a good accurate mechanical gauge to check. If pressure is good (no less than 15psi at idle hot (I prefer to see at least 20) check dash grounding, block ground and if OK, change sending unit. Dash and body ground can influence operation of shift and body control modules so indirectly your problem may or may not be related, depending upon what you find while testing. And it could turn out to be a defective module! They are expensive and just plugging new ones in may work, but then again, it might not. I might be totally incorrect on this...that's the value of actually being there instead of doing this by "remote control".
If you read the numerous posts pertaining to all vehicles, you will see that you are not alone with electrical problems...As long as the engineers who design this stuff, keep using "modules" to replace ordinary simple and reliable systems, we will continue to have these problems. Do some testing and I'm sure you will find a solution! (I'm still waiting for someone to make a program for a PC that will give a complete readout of every system in a vehicle, including exact faults instead of general system "suggestions")
Posted on Apr 07, 2009
There are two parts to it, a voltage resistor, and the EL panel itself.
You need to remove the console first. There are 2 screws under the front rubber pad, two under the cup holder, two in the bin. Remove those six first, take the storage bin out, then slide the rear cupholder out, remove the two screws under the cup holder, and one in front of it.
There are a total of 6 flat screws, and 3 self tapping screws you have removed.
Put the parking brake on, shift the tranny to N, and the transfer case to the middle position if equipped.
Remove the entire console. Slide the shifter beezel as far up vertically as you can. There are 4 clips you ned to remove to do it.
You will see a blue and black wire running into the back. Follow those wires to the resistor. You will see a transparent EL panel attatched to the resistor by two clips.
Usually, one or both of these clips has come loose, causing the light to work intermittantly. Clip them back on, and turn on the headlights to confirm that the light works correctly now.
Re-install everything in the opposite order.
Posted on Oct 11, 2009
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