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1993 honda accord sputters and stalls while driving. Sometimes it is immediate, sometimes it takes a few minutes. Engine temp is fine. The rpms go crazy right before it does it too. I have replaced the spark plug wires, distributor cap, ignition coil, main relay, and spark plugs. When i went to replace the spark plugs one came out covered in oil, if that is a problem.

Posted by Anonymous on


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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 1992 Honda Accord LX won't start - ignition problems

I would remove the distributor cap and crank the engine over . If the rotor does not turn , then you need to replace the timing belt. The timing belt needs to be replaced every 60 K. If the rotor turns then make sure you have spark to a spark plug. Run a compression test on each cylinder. The basics to run are compression, spark, fuel and timing.

Posted on Mar 11, 2009

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SOURCE: what is a ignition output signal on a 1990 honda

Most of the time these distributor come with the ignition module did your, if it did and it has not been that long and is still under warranty, have it replace, if it did not come with one replace module.

Posted on Jun 11, 2010

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SOURCE: 1991 honda accord hesitates and bottoms out sometimes

I'm gonna try and help if I can. When you say "hesitate", do you mean when you are stopped and trying to take off there is a hesitation ? As far as "bottoms out", I'm not quite sure what you mean there. Are you talking about an idle problem and the idle drops ? Seems as if you have covered any ignition type problems so I would be leaning towards a fuel system or air induction problem. I have had in a number of cases the fuel injector resistor would get hot and not function properly but most of the time it just goes bad but as I said I have come across a few cases. After the vehicle is warmed up and the problem starts, test the resistor. Below are the instructions on how to do this. You will need an ohm meter (digital). When your vehicle is cold or not quite up to operating temp, it gives it more fuel through the fuel injectors so you may not notice any problems until then which seems to be the case here. In the bottom picture there is a picture of your throttle body. Inside the throtle body (red arrow) there is a "plate that opens and closes. Over time it gets a carbon build up which will send a wrong reading to the throtle position or angle sensor. I would try cleaning the plate and its mating surface to make sure it closes properly. You can use some carb or throttle body cleaner. Where the yellow arrow goes is a vacuum line to the canister. You may want to remove that hose and clean that as well for a blockage. At operating temp while at an idle you should have no vacuum. When you slightly start to idle up or give it gas there should be vacuum at the port. If not it's clogged. After cleaning the throttle body I would disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes so the vehicles computer can relearn its idle now that changes have been made. The last thing is, did you adjust the timing ? Some people don't know it and not sure if you are one of them but a service terminal located inside the vehicle has to be jumped with a jumper wire while adjusting timing to specs. If this isn't done, your timing will be off. Ok, I lied. One more thing and that is to check all vacuum lines for dry rot or leaks. There are many other sensors that could be the cause but I would start here. Is your check engine light on ? If you have any questions you can reply here or feel free to email me directly at with all your information and what has been done so far and we can go to other tests to narrow down the problem before you start spending more money on not needed parts. There isn't a cost to you if you email me so no worries there. Don't mind helping. Hope this helps.


Posted on Jun 04, 2012

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