Question about 1993 GMC Sierra K1500

1 Answer

Turns over but wont start

My truck ran and i drove it home on friday night, but it was real rough, the distributor cap and rotor were burnt, so i replaced them. Now my truck wont start, it turns over all day but wont run, i have the correct firing order, not sure if its too far out of time, i tried all day but still didnt get it goin, ive already replaced the coil as well. does anyone have any ideas? im lost. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

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  • GMC Master
  • 1,207 Answers

First, you should check your battery!
__________
tacho pro 2008

Posted on Dec 06, 2012

  • amtracing418
    amtracing418 Dec 06, 2012

    The Battery is good, it turns the starter with no problem, and the fuel pump seems to be fine, puts plenty of gas into it.

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1118 Answers

SOURCE: 2001 gmc jimmy not starting

Did they do a fuel pressure pressure test to determine that its fuel pump? And if so what was the p.s.i.?It should be around 55 to 60 p.s.i. a few pounds under 55 p.s.i. Pump needs replaced, Your shop should have chk. this when it was there the first time. Did they by chance chg. the fuel filter, that can hinder it from starting too.

Posted on Feb 14, 2009

Testimonial: "it was the fuel pump thank you"

  • 238 Answers

SOURCE: wont start no fire

Sounds like fuel pump

Posted on Jan 09, 2010

ZJLimited
  • 17970 Answers

SOURCE: I am having ongoing problems with the truck miss

Misfire is a common driveability problem that may or may not be easy to diagnose, depending on the cause. A misfiring cylinder in a four-cylinder engine is, pardon the pun, hard to miss. The loss of 25% of the engine's power output is the equivalent of a horse trying to run on three legs. The engine may shake so badly at idle that it causes vibrations that can be felt in the steering wheel and throughout the vehicle. The engine also may be hard to start and may even stall at idle, depending on the accessory load (air conditioning, headlights and electric rear defroster, for example).

When misfire occurs, performance suffers along with fuel economy, emissions and idle quality. And, when a misfiring vehicle is subjected to an emissions test, it will usually fail because of the unusually high levels of hydrocarbons (HC) in the exhaust.

What causes a cylinder to misfire? Basically, it's one of three things: loss of spark; the air/fuel mixture is too far out of balance to ignite; or loss of compression. Loss of spark includes anything that prevents coil voltage from jumping the electrode gap at the end of the spark plug. Causes include worn, fouled or damaged spark plugs, bad spark plug wires or even a cracked distributor cap. A weak coil or excessive rotor gas inside a distributor would affect all cylinders, not just a single cylinder.

"Lean misfire" can occur when the air/fuel mixture is too lean (not enough gasoline in the mixture) to burn. This can be caused by a dirty, clogged or inoperative fuel injector; air leaks; or low fuel pressure because of a weak pump, restricted filter or leaky pressure regulator. Low fuel pressure would affect all cylinders rather than an individual cylinder, as would most air leaks. A leaky EGR valve can also have the same effect as an air leak.

Loss of compression means the cylinder loses most of its air/fuel mixture before it can be ignited. The most likely causes here are a leaky (burned) exhaust valve or a blown head gasket. If two adjacent cylinders are misfiring, it's likely the head gasket between them has failed. Also, if an engine is overheating or losing coolant, it's likely the head gasket is the culprit.

Intermittent misfires are the worst kind to diagnose because the misfire comes and goes depending on engine load or operating conditions. They seem to occur for no apparent reason. The engine may only misfire and run rough when cold but then smooth out as it warms up. Or, it may start and idle fine but then misfire or hesitate when it comes under load. Also, it may run fine most of the time but suddenly misfire or cut out for no apparent reason. Intermittent misfires can be a real challenge to diagnose, so let's start with a steady misfire in one cylinder before moving on to intermittent misfires.

Hope this help.

Posted on Mar 25, 2010

  • 5 Answers

SOURCE: I have replaced distributor cap, rotor button,plugs and wires

I had the same problem. Google your engine I had a 4.3. Click images for fiiring order you will find it. You can also click video for setting timing. I got mine running with this information. Just remember that there are two marks on the harmonic wheel one for TDC & BDC. Also you need 3 things air/fuel/spark. Make sure you have these before replacing parts it gets spendy. I got my whole distributer and spark module for 40.00.

Posted on Jul 27, 2010

candicq
  • 15 Answers

SOURCE: my truck wont fire I have replaced the distributor

first you need to test circuits see where the fire is going in and coming out when you find the spot that you have no firing coming out theres your demon replace it also check your fuse if it didnt show signs of a problem befor you parked it make sure you ignition relay or fuse isnt blown also check your ignition control moule and pick up some call them stators

Posted on Sep 29, 2010

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Related Questions:

1 Answer

Car started and ran fine, quit while driving and now there is no spark and turns over.


Hello first of all

In reading your issue at hand not having no spark there is only a few things that can cause this being that its a 1988 car i will list below what you need to go over and check.

1.spark plug wires
2. distributor cap
3. ignition rotor
4. coil pick up
5. faulty distributor

That being said most are a easy and cheap fix plug wires run about 20-35 bucks autozones duralast brand , distributor cap runs between 7-18 bucks , ignition rotor 3-8 bucks , coil pick up about 15-30 bucks all at autozone.

Now there is no real way to tell if there bad but a good examination of the distributor cap and rotor should tell you corroded inside cracked worn down.

i would start with distributor cap , ignition rotor, coil pick up if the car starts after this replace spark plugs wires. If that does not fix it most likely you distributor is faulty itself.

i hope it helps if so could you leave me so 4 thumbs up feedback thanks so much

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sounds like you have the plug wires on the cap mixed up. reccomend recheck the order and make sure they are in the right order

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Well, since the battery is on the right side in the engine compartment and you said you cleaned the terminals. Did you spray the terminals off with a hose and water? If so the distributor is located not far from the battery and you may have gotten the distributor a little moist in side which can cause it to nots tart or run rough. Pull the distributor cap and check for moisture. If wet just dry the cap and replace it .

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Wont Crnk


did ya get it goin???? havent heard from you???????

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It's probably one of these:

1.NSS- (Neutral Safety Switch)
2.CPS- (Crankshaft Position Sensor)

**Look here-
CPS 1/2 way down..
http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm

**And here-
NSS.. .
http://www.cherokee-jeep.com/1-2swremov.htm

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im thinking its the starter..i would take it out and brin it into like an autozone they test them for free..

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