Question about Ford F-350
I am mechanically inclined and have gotten this far: it is not the speed sensor i took the one off this truck and put on my other 350 and it was all good. i found that i have no ground running to the sensor, when i tested the two wires going to the sensor i have power in both of them, on my other truck i do not. i checked the continuity of the two wires starting from the first plug coming out by the pcm all the way to the plug at the sensor, continuity is good. i dont know exactly where the wires go after the plug towards the pcm. can anyone tell me what my next steps should be? or where those wires go before that first plug in. thanks
Sounds like you will have to take it to your Ford Dealer for them to fix it in 5 min
Posted on Apr 09, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Sounds like you have some EGR ports clogged up, remove the intake and look at the egr ports all but
#1 cyl port will probably be at least partially clogged, hope this helps
Posted on Nov 18, 2008
Blow by is what you are describing coming out of the oil fill cap. A little is normal, it all depends on the internal condition of the engine. I would not be to quick to say that you have glow plug issues. I would look at replacing the cam censor on the 7.3 engine there is a recall from ford for this on some model year 7.3 liter diesels
Posted on Sep 06, 2009
yea the 93 to 95 trucks never had a tach that works very long
and first the Tach does not make the od light blink or ck engine lgt
the crank trigger does this little thing is located right in middle front of engine between the vac pump and pwr steering pmp looks like a brass bolt with wires comming out of the back of it costs about 30 bucks (don't forget the locktite blue)
now that should fix the od lights and the ck engine but it may not fix the tach thats done in the tach driver module on back of tach in dash
you can replace this but my vote it's too expensive I did mine just fine with a after market one(50 bucks), bolted it right in front of old one, it hooks up super easy gets it's signal off the alternator stator
im sort of suprized it starts ok with a bad crank trig (eec needs to see +50 rpm to start fuel flow to injectors )
any good shop with a eec scanner can see this in just seconds
Posted on Oct 06, 2009
I'm sorry, I have to ask, this is an automatic right? That out of the way, Does the trans shift different when you drove it with the Vss unplugged when you had the ohm meter on it? 8.5 volts? Something sounds wrong here. I'll have to look up the wiring diagram before I can say thats a bad reading but it should be battery voltage (14 volts running) or 5 volts?
Posted on Jul 08, 2010
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