Question about 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix

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Cylinder head removal procedure - 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix

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  • 1lonedogone
    1lonedogone Dec 05, 2012

    rear cylinder head removal procedure

  • teds repairs
    teds repairs Dec 05, 2012

    have you removed the intake yet. I do a lot of head gaskets in my garage. it is easier if you take off the exhaust manifold from the head and not the eexhaust pipe. do you have the 3.1 or the 3.8

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  • Master
  • 2,101 Answers

Which one do you need to remove the back or front

Posted on Dec 05, 2012

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I. Need. Help. With. Cam bolts. And head bolts


Part 1 of 3: Getting to the head bolts

Materials Needed
  • Eye protection
  • Gloves
  • Oil and coolant drain
  • Parts cleaner or brake cleaner
  • Shop rags
  • Socket set and ratchet1: Drain the oil and coolant. Put on your eye protection and gloves and drain the oilfrom the vehicle.
    Make sure the vehicle can not be started by removing the negative cable from the battery. Next the coolant will need to be drained so it does not leak when the head bolts are loosened.
    Step 2: Clean valve cover. Use some of the parts cleaner or brake cleaner to clean up the valve cover and as much of the cylinder head as is reasonable.Remove valve cover. If necessary, remove other components to make the valve covers accessible, and start removing the bolts from the valve cover.
    Once all bolts are removed carefully removed the valve cover from the cylinder head. If any valve cover gasket material remains, remove it at this time and clean any excess oil from the edges. Set the valve cover aside carefully as it will be reused with a new gasket once repairs are completed.

    Part 2 of 3: Pushrod engine head bolt removal

    Materials Needed
    • Head bolt socket (if needed)
    • Numbered cardboard
    • Rubber hammer
    • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Rocker arm and rocker removal. A pushrod engine has long pushrods that protrude through the cylinder head and attach to the rocker rail.
      The rocket arm will need to be loosened first. Many manufactures have a specific sequence for removal of the rocker arm bolts. After the rocker arm is removed, the rockers will be unbolted.
      Set all rocker arms aside in the order they were removed as they should go back to the cylinder they were removed from.Step 2: Remove the pushrods. Remove the pushrods one at a time from the cylinder head.
      Put them into a numbered piece of cardboard as the pushrods will go back into the same slot they came from.Step 3: Loosen head bolts. Use the ratchet begin to break the cylinder head bolts loose.
      Each bolt will be loosened but not removed. Loosen all of the bolts before removing any of the the bolts all the way.
      Step 4: Remove the bolts. Place each bolt through a numbered hole in the cardboard in case the head bolts are different lengths so they can be installed back into the proper hole.
      The bolts may require a special socket depending on the manufacture.
      Step 5: Lift off the cylinder head. Once all bolts are removed, lift up on the cylinder headgently; the head should come free easilyIf the cylinder head sticks, lightly use a dead blow or rubber mallet to tap the cylinder head to be able to remove it. Set to the side in a safe area.
      • Warning: Cylinder head bolts have a specific sequence that is used when removing them. Consult the manufacturer's specifications for the proper removal sequence for the engine being worked on.

      Part 3 of 3: Overhead cam head bolt removal

      Material Needed
      • Socket set and ratchetStep 1: Remove the timing cover. The timing cover will need to be removed to gain access to the timing belt or chain.
        This is necessary because the cam shaft sits in the cylinder head and is attached to the crankshaft with either a timing belt or timing chain.
        Step 2: Time the engine to remove the belt. The engine will need to be timed to avoid damage when the timing belt is removed.
        Each engine is different and will have its own procedures to time. There should be marks on the camshaft and crankshaft that will be aligned to set the timing at top dead center (TDC)Step 3: Remove the timing belt. The timing belt tensioner will be removed or released to take the tension off the belt.
        Once the belt is loosened, it should be able to be slipped of the camshaft in the cylinder head.Step 4: Remove the head bolts. Every engine will have its own procedures for the order that the head bolts are removed or tightened.
        Loosen head bolts ¼ turn each in the order specified, which may require a special socket. Once all the bolts have been loosened they may be removed one at a time. The bolts must be organized or marked in case they are different lengths.
        Step 5: Remove the cylinder head. Once all the bolts are removed, the cylinder head may be removed from the engine. If it is stuck, tap lightly on the side of the head with a rubber hammer to loosen the cylinder head.
        • Warning: Most head bolts are torque-to-yield. These head bolts are single use only and once removed must be replaced. Torque-to-yield head bolts stretch when they are torqued to allow them to tighten properly and repeated application can cause the head bolt to break.
        Removing the head bolts can seem like a daunting process

Sep 29, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Diy headgaskit leaking


which engine,there are many , state displacement and cylinder count.
DID YOU OVERHEAT IT?
this is covered in the FSM, get one.
or use Alldata.com
lots of steps.
well over 100..... counting adjustements, etc.....
i guess you never done a head job before?

do not just replace it. (gasket) check for head AND engine
deck warpage. ( a $2 tool , )
here is my wild guess,

Except Accord V-6 The cylinder head temperature must be below 100F (38C); allow the engine to cool several hours if the car has been recently driven. Turn the crankshaft pulley so that the number one piston is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
  1. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
  2. Drain the cooling system.
  3. Remove the air cleaner and intake duct assembly.
  4. Label and remove the brake booster, PCV and charcoal canister vacuum hoses from the intake manifold.
  5. Remove the engine ground cable from the cylinder head or valve cover.
  6. Relieve the fuel pressure using the proper procedure. Disconnect the fuel lines.
  7. Disconnect the accelerator cable at the throttle body or carburetor. On automatic transaxle vehicles, also disconnect the throttle control cable.
  8. Disconnect and tag all the wire harnesses and vacuum hoses from the cylinder head, intake manifold and throttle body/carburetor. Disconnect the spark plug wires, then position them aside.
  9. Disconnect the upper radiator hose. Remove the heater hoses from the cylinder head.
  10. If equipped, remove the cruise control actuator. Do not disconnect the cable; move the actuator out of the work area with the cable attached.
  11. Remove accessory drive belts.
  12. Disconnect the inlet hose from the power steering pump and plug the hose immediately to prevent fluid leakage. Remove the power steering pump from the cylinder head and position it aside.
When the power steering hose is disconnected, the fluid will flow out. Cover the alternator with a shop towel to prevent the fluid from leaking into it.
  1. If the alternator is mounted to the cylinder head, remove it.
  2. Remove the power steering and alternator brackets if they are mounted on the cylinder head.
  3. Remove the distributor. Be sure to scribe a line relating the position of the distributor to the engine for easy installation.
  4. If equipped, remove the cylinder sensor next to the distributor.
  5. Remove the valve cover.
  6. Remove the timing belt.
Do not crimp or bend the timing belt.
  1. Remove the exhaust header pipe nuts and the header pipe bracket (if equipped). Pull the pipe away from the exhaust manifold.
  2. If equipped, remove the EGR crossover and air suction pipes.
  3. On Accords through 1989 and Preludes through 1991, the cylinder head can be removed with the intake and exhaust manifolds either still attached or removed. On other models, the manifolds should be removed first.
  4. On some engines, it will be necessary to remove the camshaft holders, camshafts and rocker arms to access the cylinder head bolts. If so, refer to the proper procedures in this section.
  5. Remove the cylinder head bolts in sequence (take notice of any bolt holes occupied by longer bolts). Failure to follow this procedure may cause the head to warp.
    1. On 1984-89 Accords and 1984-91 Preludes, work from the ends toward the center. Loosen each bolt about 1/2 turn each time and make several passes to release the tension evenly.
    2. On 1990-95 Accords and 1992-95 Preludes, follow the loosening sequence shown in the illustrations. Loosen each bolt about 1/3 turn each time. Repeat the sequence until all bolts are loosened.
Remove the cylinder head. The head may resist removal, even with the bolts out. Tap the edge of the head with a plastic or rubber mallet; lift the head straight up to remove it.
Remove the cylinder head gasket and clean the mating surfaces.
(do not use wire brush or metal scrapers on alum, heads)
use a plastic scraper.
then check for warping, (ask)

If applicable, remove the intake and exhaust manifolds from the cylinder head. (lol, is listed last, gotta love non FSM real online data)


i post this to dissuade you, its not complete.
there are many factors,checks and issues, TTY, and others.....
graphics missing above, head sequence rules. on and off !

if the head was overheated, you need to get it pressure tested
and warp checked.
the top to reasons for new gaskets , put on to fail in first 10k milles
is , not warp checked, pressure checked)
or 2: surfaces were not good. (might need to be milled a tad)
3: not using new head bolts, some are TTY and if not ,should not be used 3 times.

Dec 26, 2013 | 1993 Honda Accord

2 Answers

I need the torque for all the head bolts on my 1983 datsun 280zx


Check this information for 1983 Datsun 280ZX 2.8L (click over image for zoom)...

zjlimited_2038.jpg

Fig. 7: Cylinder head bolt removal sequence


zjlimited_2039.jpg

Fig. 13: Head bolt torquing sequence-1970-83 models

After repair job, temporarily install and tighten the two center (right and left) cylinder head bolts to 14 ft. lbs. (18 Nm).

Install the camshaft sprocket together with the timing chain onto the camshaft. Make sure that the marks made earlier, line up. If the chain will not stretch over the sprocket, the problem lies in the tensioner. Refer to the Timing Chain removal and installation procedure for the timing procedure, if necessary.

Install the cylinder head bolts. Note that two lengths are used. Tighten the bolts in sequence.
1970-71 models:
Tighten the bolts to 33 ft. lbs. (43 Nm)
Tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)

1972 models:
Tighten the bolts to 47 ft. lbs. (61 Nm)
Tighten the bolts to 55 ft. lbs. (71 Nm)

1973-83 models:
Tighten the bolts to 30 ft. lbs. (39 Nm)
Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (57 Nm)
Tighten the bolts to 54-61 ft. lbs. (70-79 Nm)

To complete the installation, reverse the removal procedures. Adjust the valves to a preliminary COLD clearance of 0.2mm for the intake and 0.25mm for the exhaust. Operate the engine until it is at normal operating temperature, retighten the head bolts (loosen them slightly and retighten to the final torque figure) and adjust the valves to the HOT clearance specifications.

Hope this helps; remember to rating this answer and leave some testimonial comment about this.

Oct 13, 2011 | 1983 Nissan 280ZX

1 Answer

I need take out cilinder head from nissan 1985 2.4 becuse the head gasket are burne out


Check this about Cylinder Head Cover - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION procedure...

1. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
2. Disconnect the PCV hose(s) from the cylinder head cover.
3. Remove the nuts and washers. Lift the cover off the cylinder head. Cover the oil return hole in the head to prevent dirt or objects from falling in. Remove the gasket.

To install:

4. Replace the cover gasket if it shows any signs of damage, breaks or cracking. Tighten the nuts evenly, reconnect the PCV hose and install the air cleaner assembly.



continue...

Apr 13, 2011 | Nissan Pickup Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Need to replace ignition cylinder. no keys


This is not an easy repair due to anit theft requirements. need to chisel off bolts.

Section 11-04: Steering Column 1997 Probe Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 05/17/2000
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Removal
  1. Remove the steering wheel (3600). Refer to the procedure in this section.
  1. Remove the four lower steering column shroud screws.


    j5021c.gif

  1. Separate the upper and lower steering column shrouds.
  1. Remove the ignition switch lock cylinder illumination miniature bulb from the lower steering column shroud.
  1. Remove the upper and lower steering column shrouds.
  1. Remove the multi-function switch (13K359). Refer to Section 11-05 for the removal and installation procedure.
  1. If equipped, remove the ignition/shifter interlock cable screw.
  1. Disconnect the ignition/shifter interlock cable (3F719) from ignition switch lock cylinder (11582).
  1. Use a chisel to remove the two ignition switch lock cylinder bolts.
  1. Remove the ignition switch lock cylinder from the steering column.
  1. Disconnect the ignition key reminder switch electrical connector.
  1. If necessary, remove the ignition key reminder switch.


    j5028b.gif

Installation
NOTE: Use new ignition switch lock cylinder bolts. Tighten the bolts until the bolt heads break off. Check for proper ignition switch (11572) operation.

To install, reverse the removal procedure.

Mar 25, 2011 | 1997 Ford Probe

1 Answer

How to replace head gasket 1998 Lumina


Cylinder Head Removal & Installation 3.1L Engine To Remove:
NOTE: With some minor variations, this procedure can be used on both the left and right cylinder heads.
  1. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  2. Drain the engine coolant and the engine oil. Lower the vehicle.
  3. Remove the upper and lower intake manifolds.
  4. Remove the rocker arms and pushrods.
  5. Remove the exhaust crossover pipe.
  6. Remove the engine mount strut bracket.
  7. If removing the left side (front) head, remove the dipstick tube.
  8. Tag for identification, then remove the spark plug wires.
  9. Remove the spark plugs.
  10. Remove the exhaust manifold using the procedures found in this section.
  11. Remove the eight cylinder head bolts, then remove the cylinder head. There are locator pins that align the head to the block. Pull upwards on the head to disengage the pins, then remove the cylinder head to a suitable work area.
  12. If the head is be overhauled, remove any remaining components such as the engine lift hook, the fuel line bracket bolts, the engine coolant temperature sensor, etc., as required.
Position a new gasket, install the head, then tighten the bolts in the sequence shown (3.1L engine shown) 93173g43.gif

To Install:
NOTE: If the head gasket failed, determine the cause. Gasket failure is caused by the following conditions: improper installation; overheating due to a failure in the electric cooling fan system or a leak in the cooling system; loose or warped cylinder head; missing, off location or not fully seated locator dowel pins; low torque on the cylinder head bolts; warped block surface; scratched or gouged gasket surfaces; excessive intake manifold torque and even cracked engine block tapped holes.
  1. Clean all parts well. Remove all foreign material to the bare metal. Do not use a motorized wire brush on any gasket sealing surface. It is good practice to use the proper size thread-cutting tap to clean the threaded bolt holes in the block. This helps assure an accurate torque reading.
  2. Place a new head gasket on the clean engine block deck surface. Many gaskets will have some sort of marking denoting TOP or THIS SIDE UP. Make sure the gasket sits flat and is not hung up on the locator dowel pins. Use no sealer on the head gasket.
  3. Carefully set the cylinder head in place, using care not to damage the gasket. Make certain that the head engages the locator dowel pins that properly position the head.
  4. The bolts should be very clean since dirt built-up on the bolt threads makes it difficult to get an accurate torque reading. These are 'torque to yield' bolts which stretch a small amount when tightened; new bolts are always recommended. On a used vehicle, especially a high-mileage vehicle, it may be difficult to determine if the heads have been removed before and how many cycles the bolts have been removed and tightened. New bolts should be part of any cylinder head service. Use GM Sealer #1052080, or equivalent, on the threads of the head bolts and install all eight bolts, finger-tight.
  5. With an accurate torque wrench, tighten the bolts gradually, in sequence, working from the center outwards. Final torque should be 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm), plus an additional 90 degrees (1/4-turn). A torque angle meter is recommended.
  6. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of the removal process.

Aug 11, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet Lumina

1 Answer

TOP END NOISE AFTER I CROSSED HOSES


if your cylinders filled up with coolant ...you have a blown head gasket or, cracked engine head

May 29, 2009 | 2002 Jaguar S-Type

1 Answer

Remove ignition tumbler


lock cylinder removal

Section 11-04: Steering Column 1996 Escort, Tracer Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder Removal
  1. stf~us~en~file=ani_caut.gif~gen~ref.gif WARNING: THE ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT NECESSARY FOR DRIVER SIDE AIR BAG MODULE DEPLOYMENT IS POWERED DIRECTLY FROM THE BATTERY. TO AVOID ACCIDENTAL DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY, THE BATTERY GROUND CABLE MUST BE DISCONNECTED PRIOR TO SERVICING OR REPLACING ANY DRIVER SIDE AIR BAG MODULE SYSTEM COMPONENTS.
    Remove the steering wheel (3600). Refer to the procedure in this section.
  1. Remove the multi-function switch (13K359). Refer to Section 11-05 for the removal procedure.
  1. Disconnect the ignition switch electrical connector.
  1. Remove the ignition/shifter interlock cable mounting bracket bolt and position the ignition/shifter interlock cable mounting bracket and the ignition/shifter interlock cable (3F719) aside.




  1. Remove the four steering column upper mounting bracket bolts and lower the steering column (3C529).
  1. Use a hammer and chisel to make a groove in the head of each of the two ignition switch lock cylinder bracket bolts.


    0764353.gif

  1. Remove the two ignition switch lock cylinder bracket bolts with a screwdriver and discard the bolts.




  1. Remove the ignition switch lock cylinder and the ignition switch lock cylinder bracket.
Installation
  1. Position the ignition switch lock cylinder and bracket and install two new bolts, tightening them only enough to hold the ignition switch lock cylinder in position.
  1. With the key in the ignition, verify the operation of the ignition switch lock cylinder. If necessary, reposition the ignition switch lock cylinder until it operates properly.
  1. Tighten the ignition switch lock cylinder bracket bolts until the bolt heads break off.
  1. Position the steering column and install the four steering column upper mounting bracket bolts. Tighten the steering column upper mounting bracket bolts to 9-14 Nm (80-124 lb-in).
  1. On vehicles equipped with tilt column, remove the upper mounting bracket retaining pin.
  1. Position the ignition/shifter interlock cable mounting bracket and install the bolt. Tighten the ignition/shifter interlock cable mounting bracket bolt to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb-in).
  1. Connect the ignition switch electrical connector.
  1. Install the multi-function switch. Refer to Section 11-05 for the installation procedure.
  1. Install the steering wheel. Refer to the procedure in this section.
  1. Inspect the shift interlock system. Refer to Section 07-05 for the procedure.

Apr 07, 2009 | 1995 Mercury Tracer

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