Question about Pontiac Montana

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Loss of control steering wheel jumps when i hit small bumps

Had motor and rack tie rod ends replaced now when traveling down road if i hit a small bump or rut car looses control like an end link is broke? checked front end all is tight . Cant figure what is going on also replaced tires .

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  • 48 Answers

Sounds like you got a inner tie rod end that is bad

Posted on Dec 05, 2012

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SQUIRESXX
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SOURCE: Front End Knocking

WISH BONE BUSHES , ROLL BAR BUSHES, OR BUSHES IN TOP OF DAMPERS, UNLESS YOU HAVE A LOOSE BLOCK OR TRANSMISSION MOUNT

Posted on Feb 02, 2009

66 chrgr
  • 1011 Answers

SOURCE: Bump/Crunch sounds when I hit bumps in the road--2001 PT Cruiser

they are known for lower control arm bushings going bad as well as sway bar link pins.i also have a pt. and have replaced these parts

Posted on Mar 19, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Loud clunking noise in front end over bumps

THIS IS THE REAR CONTROL ARM BUSHINGS THE BANGING IS THE CONTROL ARM HITTING THE K FRAME

Posted on Mar 24, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Loud front end noise over low-speed city street bumps.

I have the same problem but others said that replacing the $25 sway bar bushings fixed the problem. This solution helped several owners so it's worth changing.

Posted on Apr 25, 2009

  • 1779 Answers

SOURCE: the front end and steering wheel shakes when i hit a hole or bump

This usually indicates a problem with the suspension components. Check for play in front end suspension, 1st thing I would check would be the steering damper, it's often overlooked, and could be the cause. If that checks out ok, jack up and check for play in wheels, which could be caused by worn ball joints, tie rod ends, wheel bearings. A lot of possibilities, generally play in any components can trigger the shaking you're experiencing when hitting a pot hole or bump. Good luck!

Posted on May 09, 2009

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Have anyone out there ever change inner tie rods on a1995 honda odyssey?,if so simply explain,THANKS


Procedure on replacing the inner tie rod ends:


1) Raise and safely support the vehicle.

2) Remove the front wheel/tire assembly.

3) Clean the steering rod between the steering boot and outer tie rod end lock nut with a suitable penetrating lubricant and a clean cloth or shop towel.

4) Loosen the outer tie rod end locking nut 1/8 turn.

5) Loosen the steering boot clamp(s), and slide the small clamp off the boot.

6) Carefully loosen the boot and slide outward off the steering rack and onto the shaft to expose the inner steering rod mounting fastener.

7) If necessary, position the inner steering rack shaft in or out to allow for additional access.

8) Relieve the steering rod nut locking tab from the inner steering rack shaft, then loosen the steering rod ball socket nut 1 turn.

9) Matchmark the tie rod end to the threaded shaft.

10) Remove the cotter key and castle nut from the outer tie rod end threaded spindle, and using a tie rod end removal tool, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle.

11) Hold the tie rod with a wrench, and remove the outer tie rod end from the threaded rod, counting the number of complete turns it takes to remove the tie rod end from the shaft. Write the number of turns on a piece of note paper.

12) Remove the tie rod end lock nut from the threaded steering shaft.

13) Slide the steering rack boot off the shaft.

14) Remove the inner steering rod ball socket nut from the inner steering rack shaft.

To install:

1) Inspect the tie rod end for looseness, and the steering rack boot and tie rod end boot for cracks deterioration or damage and replace as necessary.

2) Clean steering rack shaft and apply a light coating of Genuine Honda Power steering fluid as necessary.

3) Apply a medium strength locking agent to the threads where the inner steering rod ball socket mounts. Use a new locking washer and a new stop washer, and install the inner tie rod onto the steering rack shaft.

4) Tighten the inner tie rod end fastener by 58 ft. lbs. (78 Nm)

5) Peen the lock washer over the nut or onto the flat surface of the steering rack shaft.

6) Apply silicone grease to the outer circumference of the inner tie rod end ball socket, and onto the groove just outside of the socket.

7) Apply silicone grease to the inside of the small end of the steering rack boot, and slide the boot over the steering shaft and onto the rack and install the boot clamps. If the boot has air hose fittings make sure they are installed as removed.

8) Apply a light film of an anti-seize compound onto the threaded tie rod end, and install the tie rod end lock nut.

9) Install the tie rod end onto the tie rod, turning it in exactly the number of turns it took to remove it.

10) Install the tie rod end following the tie rod end installation procedure.

11) The balance of installation is the reverse of the removal procedure.

12) Check the front end alignment and adjust as necessary.

Sep 10, 2012 | 1995 Honda Odyssey

1 Answer

Can you adjust thebrack and pinion on a 2000 Sebring?


Hi Jim, What about the rack ends? They also wear out. Chock the wheels and apply the parking brake, jack up the front end and test for play by moving the road wheels left and right by hand. If the play is there remove the rubber boots and check for wear on the rack ends (coming out from the rack) If you see movement from the rack its self the whole unit must be replaced. Regards John

Jul 21, 2012 | 2000 Chrysler Sebring

2 Answers

1986 F150 2wd, front suspension hops uncontrolably when one or both wheels hit a dip or manhole cover in road. I have to almost stop to get it to quit jumping up and down. Too many new parts have been...


I had a chev truck do that once . It was the tires were out of balance. A friend of mine had to put stablizer shock on the steering tie rod to stop his. It looks like a long shock that mounts to the frame and the tie rod shaft. Good Luck

Feb 27, 2011 | Ford F-150 Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Front wheels shake when I hit a bump in road


Pitman arm and tie rod ends and bail joints.The three main causes of front end shake after hitting a bump.There's so much slop that when you hit a bump it shakes violently from one end of the slop to the other.Very dangerous!You need to get this fixed now!
Get someone to turn the steering wheel while holding onto a front wheel and just watch for stuff that moves.Turn left and right and you'll see what's the worst for wear.The connections at the steering box arm(Pitman) and at the wheels(Tie rods) will be what moves the worst.Hope this helps?Autozone has a kit for the pitman for $100,probably be $600 at a shop.

Jan 11, 2010 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

1 Answer

The car is hard to control in the highway constantly steering


Your engine and transmission mounts need inspection. Replace as necessary.
Jack up your car and support it on jack-stands.
Rotate the front-wheels and pull it towards your chest to feel the condition of the wheel bearings.
Do the same for the rear-wheels.
As for rear bouncing around corner: your rear-shocks need to check.
Last resort is to do frame inspection.

Dec 01, 2009 | 1996 Audi A4

1 Answer

Vibration in steering wheel when a bump or other object in the road is hit


You probably have a worn tie-rod. Jack one side of the car up at a time so that one front wheel is off the ground. Grab the wheel and try to turn it back and forth. You should not feel any play. When you find a wheel with play, reach around the wheel with one hand and grab the inner tie rod and hold it still while pushing and pulling on the wheel. If the play goes away, replace the inner tie rod end. If it does not go away, replace the outer tie rod end.

Oct 02, 2009 | 1995 Land Rover Discovery

1 Answer

318I Feels like the car jumps to the side when a bump in the road is hit. what could make the car do this ?


possibly a bad strut.more likely it's a control arm bushing,a tie-rod end,or steering rack bushing.

Apr 23, 2009 | 1996 BMW 318

2 Answers

How to change inner tie rod ends?


if fluid is flowing out the bellows, you need to replace the steering rack assembly. There is no fluid in the area of the inner tie rod. The seal is just before the tie rod.

Steering Gear
The power rack and pinion steering gear is serviced as a power steering short rack (3L547). The front wheel spindle tie rods (3280) and tie rod ends (3A130) are serviced individually. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
  • The power rack and pinion steering gear incorporates quick connect fittings for the power steering pressure hose (3A719) and power steering return hose (3A713) that allow the lines to swivel. This is normal and does not indicate loose fittings.
  • If the fittings leak, check to make sure they are tightened to 14-20 Nm (10-14 lb-ft). Do not overtighten.
  • If the leak is not corrected, replace the fitting seals.
-------------------------------------------------------------
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Section 11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Tie Rod End Steering Gear Installed
Removal
  1. Remove and discard cotter pin and nut from worn tie rod end (3A130).
  1. Disconnect tie rod end from front wheel knuckle (3K185), using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
  1. Hold tie rod end with a wrench and loosen tie rod end jam nut.
  1. Note depth to which tie rod end was located by using the jam nut as a marker. Grip tie rod end with a pair of suitable pliers and remove tie rod end from front wheel spindle tie rod (3280).
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Steering Gear Removal
  1. Raise vehicle on a twin post hoist and remove wheel and tire assemblies. Refer to Section 00-02 .


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  1. Support vehicle with jackstands under front jack pads.
  1. Remove tie-rod end cotter pins and nuts and remove tie rod ends (3A130) from front wheel knuckle (3K185). Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Remove front stabilizer bar (5482). Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Disconnect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
  1. Support flex pipe.
  1. Remove bolts and disconnect flex pipe from the converter.
  1. Raise dash opening steering column opening weather seal (3513) (secondary) above the steering gear housing (3548).
  1. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling (3A525) to power steering gear input shaft and control (3D517) and disconnect the shaft.
  1. Remove nuts from steering gear-to-front subframe retaining bolts. Remove bolts.
  1. Remove rear subframe-to-body retaining bolts.
  1. Lower twin post hoist carefully until rear of subframe (5R003) separates from body, approximately four inches.
  1. Remove heat shield band and fold shield down.
  1. Rotate power rack and pinion steering gear to clear bolts from front subframe (5C145) and pull left to facilitate line fitting removal.
  1. Place a drain pan under vehicle and remove line fittings.
  1. Remove power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
  1. Remove and discard the O-rings.
Installation
  1. Install new Teflon® O-rings on line fittings as outlined.
  1. Place steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing.
  1. Install power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
  1. Install power steering line fittings to power rack and pinion steering gear.
  1. Position power rack and pinion steering gear into front subframe.
  1. Install ******** heat shield.
  1. Install tie-rod ends to front wheel knuckle. Install nuts and new cotter pins. Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Install LH front stabilizer bar. Refer to Section 04-01 .
  1. Install steering gear to subframe mounting nuts. Tighten to 115-135 Nm (85-99 lb-ft).
  1. Raise hoist until rear subframe contacts body.
  1. Install rear subframe to body retaining bolts. Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 lb-ft).
  1. Install exhaust system flex tube to dual converter Y pipe (5F250) and remove flex tube support.
  1. Connect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
  1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
  1. Using a new pinch bolt, install the steering column intermediate shaft coupling on the power steering gear input shaft and control and the lower steering column shaft. Tighten the pinch bolt to 34-46 Nm (25-33 lb-ft).
  1. Position steering column opening weather seal (secondary) over the steering gear housing. Tighten nuts to 4.5-6.3 Nm (40-55 lb-in).
  1. Remove jackstands and lower vehicle.
  1. Fill power steering oil reservoir (3A697) with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESW-M2C33-F. Refer to Section 11-00 .
  1. Check system for leaks and proper operation.

Apr 15, 2009 | 1997 Ford Windstar

1 Answer

Rack pinions and bushing installement


pretty decent job ahead first jack up car support with jack stands remove front wheels remove nuts on tie rod ends remove tie rod ends from spindles with tie rod end tool or tap with malet were they sit to loosen them hit the spindle area not the tie rod or tie rod threads then dissconnect power steering lines from steering rack also disconect steering linkage to rack there should be 2 main bolts holding assembly to frame remove them should free rack i know that car may have a unique design were u may have to remove inner tie rod ends first if it has those round bushings that always go bad disconect inner tie rod ends behind engine on top of steering rack then remove rack from wheel well replace those inner tie rod bushings u may be able to leave outer tie rod end connected to spindles and u may be able to get to the sterring rack from behind engine good luck

Mar 28, 2009 | 1997 Chrysler Concorde

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